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#21 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Bret Brinkmann: First I would try giving Kormex a call and explaining things to them. They have been willing to help people in the past but not if it sounds like they under attack. Your post does sound a little agressive towards them.
You're right about the attack thing. It's just that it's frustrating and scary to think that you're spending all this money, some of which is for surely down the drain in double labor since some of us don't do the work ourselves, and you may or may not end up with a good tranny. We have to be patient. I tried not to attack but showed concern: Need Tranny rebuild/ 93 VR4- Experience with Jack's?
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93 VR4: 2006 Engine Rebuild/Port and Polished Heads, '99 Lifters, DR 500's, CFDS, TC Bracket, Custom Catback/DP w/precat elims, Unichip, EBC, 680cc injectors w/Denso/AEM fuel reg/Hotwired, H&R springs(-1")-new struts, SPEC 3/PLUS clutch w/Fidenza Flywheel(new), MAFT, Front/Rear strut bars, polished plenium and chrome engine dress, 18" chromies. Newer TC (recall but never had problem!) 60k tune with all new parts(redone during rebuild).
93 SL: DP/ 3sX Lightened pulley, K&N intake w/ SuperMac Cold wall. SS Grey!(Died 2/07 |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Gear Head
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I have noticed the best results while adjusting them when the tranny is cold. Just install the cables at the tranny any way, and then play with the adjustment at the shifter inside the car. Just find the best spot. It doesn't have to be the spot where all of your shifting troubles are gone. Just the spot where it is the relitive best. If you still have problems, then there is another problem some where. Checking all of this stuff before calling Kormex is a good idea. That will just save you the time of hearing it from them. Although they may have a few more things they will want to add to this list. The big long adjusting nut in the car is called a "turn buckle". Like how you adjust the toe on a Jeep Cherokee. With a turn buckle.
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When asked what the best thing to come out of Italy is, most Italians will tell you Ferrari.... But if you ask me it was Super Mario Brothers.
![]() 250 RWHP If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at SavagTiger@AOL.com. 94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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what would dave thomas do
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ok cool. my redline came today so i'm gonna put that in tonight. also i was looking at my shifters above the tranny and is that plastic thing supposed to be visible? cause i didn't see it. also should i mess with the other turn buckle?
thanks for being so patient with this thread bret |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Mike Vincent
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hey guys,
I actually just put a kormex trans in my car, but havn't driven it yet. (waiting on DR stage3 heads from matt to come in) I actually called Luke at Kormex and asked what fluid he would recommend, and he told me 30 weight motor oil.....not 10W 30. He said you can use multi viscosity if you want, but he recommends straight 30. I was sceptical about this when I talked to him, but reading this post makes me feel a little better, lol. I think I'm just going to throw some mobil1 in and see what happens. I'll keep you guys posted.
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Lawdogg: (one of them a 14.00 @ 110, lol, look at me I'm a supra)
That was awesome.99 VR-4 4 bolt main block, Std. forged crank, pauter rods, ross pistons, ARP head and main studs, total seal rings, torque plated bores .020 over, assemblies balenced to .01g, machine work by Masons Racing Engines, 99 lifters, aluminum underdrive pully, K&N filter, RFL, front mount intercooler, 15G's, iridium plugs, aluminum flywheel, spec 2+ clutch, Kormex 25 spline 5 speed, front and rear strut tower braces, front and rear drilled and slotted rotors, Nitto 555R's, custom 1.5" tuned stainless headers, custom 2.5" stainless O2 housings, 2.5" to 3" tanabe stainless down pipe, stainless tanabe concept G blue catback system, AVC-R, DSM 450cc's, S-AFC, (it works, but will be replaced soon), AEM Wide band, Auto meter boost gauge, Walbro 255 pump, (DR3 heads & Kevlar timing belt going on any day now) |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Ok, guys...I was the original poster and here is my update. After babying my shifts and tranny for another 300 miles it is very inconsistent. Again I have syncroshift II and a total of about 700 city miles on my reman tranny and new clutch. It was relatively cold here for awhile now its about 55 average.
My shifts are notchy in every gear. When in first gear pulling it out and going into second there is resistance. It feels like trying to pull it out of 1st gear with the clutch not depressed all the way, and believe me it is. I will even hold in it for a split second before touching the shifter. That only happens sporadically but when it does, it leads me to believe my clutch is dragging. But it doesn't do that all the time. Then if it does come out of gear smoothly, it always pauses in neutral before going into any other gear. Which is ok for normal driving but I do plan on racing hence the reason I spent 3000+ on all this work, and thats not going to fly. After pausing in neutral for a second it feels like it has to work its way into gear. Like you need a light hand on the shifter so it can wiggle its way in just right. This is not what I expected at all. Thats why I am so disappointed. The only difference between my reman $2800 kormex trans and my stock one with 90K on it, is a little less notchiness but not any faster in shifting. I do have a stainless steel clutch line to install and I'm going to re-bleed the clutch and see if that helps at all. I thought there would be a night and day difference especially for having a reman tranny/xcase, brand new clutch, brand new clutch master cylinder and top of the line fluid. I should be shifting like butter, with no resistance. Any ideas or suggestions are very appreciated And from my experience as I sit right now I WOULD NOT recommend a kormex tranny to anyone who has a decent tranny and is still driveable!!! Chance are its no better than yours right now. Someone please prove me wrong!!! |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Excellent thread, I'm subscibed and reading with interest. I have a Kormex I bought over the winter and am getting ready to install. Hopefully you'll find that it's not the tranny, but it doesn't sound too good right now.
Bob |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I adjusted my shifter cables again with some change for the better and worse. The way I was told the cables should be is when the shifter is in neutral pull up the cables and the holes should line up perfectly. But that doesn't always net the best shifting for me.
But playing around with the cables gave me mixed results. The left side cable determines how far left and right the shifter goes. That one seems to make the most difference to me. The notchiness was at a minimum when I adjusted the cable so the shifter moved only a little to the left for 1st. But it seemed something was catching and I had to 'pull' it out of first. I adjusted again so I had to move the shifter farther to the left for first and the pulling out of first was solved but it just got more notchy through every gear. What I would like to start is people taking pics of how their cables (turnbuckles) are set at, and what kind of shifting they have. I would really like the majority of good shifting "like butter" people to take pics so I can see their cables, but also for reference and comparison people with notchy and pausing in neutral shifting to snap pics as well. I will have my pics up this afternoon of how I have mine right now. Thanks... |
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