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Old 10-25-2007, 02:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

Sorry off topic but are you moving here to Jacksonville NC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yume View Post
I think at this point, financially, I'll have to go with a stock replacement. I need my car running for the Littleton, MA to Jacksonville, NC trip. With the new clutch and flywheel, and the fact I haven't driven her in SO LONG (1 year) I 'm not gonna beat on my car at all...

So, now I have to figure out, 18 or 25 spline, big or small input sleeve, correct?
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

Just an FYI for any one else that reads this post... You most defently want to upgrade your transfer case with the steel setup other wise yours will look like mine:

http://www.macross-plus.com/carp/getrag-broken.jpg

I broke mine on the third day of running 18psi around town (Note my tran and transfer have 100K on them but EVERY thing else is new under 7K miles on it) and it was not even a hard launch. Luckly I caught it right after I did it (could smell the redline fluid.) Anyways getting my parts from 3sx on friday and I am going to order a Maximal Performance brace as well just in case...

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1993 3000GT VR4 :: Mods :: New Short Block, APR Head Studs, Multi Layer Head Gasket, Port/Polish Heads, 560cc Lancer Injectors, 15G Turbos, 3.5 GM MAF With Translator, Dejon Blow Though Pre Turbo Pipes, 36x14x3 FMIC, 3inch Custom intake, 255 Walbro fuel pump hot wired, Fuellab Fuel Pressure Regulator, Precats removed, Greddy Type-RS BOV, Greddy E-01, AEM Wideband Air/Fuel, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, SPEC Stage 3 Plus Clutch, All sensors replaced, and some other stuff
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
Breaks all but Xfer case
 
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

I have a NoCar Xfer case and haven't had an issue yet. I dont know if he is making anymore or not, but thats another option.

CFDS will also help take the shock adn stress away from your xfer case. Solid/poly mounts will help from pinching the xfer case when you launch.
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:14 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

The stainless steel transfer case is for 25-spline and late 18-spline transfer cases only. It's the big bearing housing. If you have your original TC from a build date of 1990 you do not have a big bearing 18-spline or a 25-spline TC. The best thing to do would be to get a 300M shaft, and a TC bracket.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

I am looking into the same thing. what I gather from this is the front and mid housing are the weak parts of the 18/25 spline 5 spd, and the rear section is fine? Along with adding the Tcase bracket? It should be good, or is the rear section weak as well?
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Old 11-17-2007, 02:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

Nice thread! Sub'ed
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Old 11-17-2007, 03:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvanH View Post
I am looking into the same thing. what I gather from this is the front and mid housing are the weak parts of the 18/25 spline 5 spd, and the rear section is fine? Along with adding the Tcase bracket? It should be good, or is the rear section weak as well?
the front and mid housings are the only parts that have an aftermarket replacement. some believe the tail section will now take more abuse than it has previously seen (due to the newer parts) and will break sooner than it would before. it may have been the strongest of the three originally, but now it's the weakest part (assuming you have the front and mid housings) and some believe that the new parts will actually make the tail section fail sooner. i personally am not sold on the idea yet since there's not a lot of data out there, but i can see how the idea makes some sense.
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305 awhp, 325 awtq(BPU minus full catback exhaust)Mods at that time
13.02@104.67 (9bs, dp, fipk, 15.5 psi, bov, no cats, streetmax clutch, 1.77 60', decent conditions, full weight (even spare tire/jack)
13.09@105.08 (1.80 60', same conditions as above)
Beyond BPU: (meaning upgraded turbos/fuel/etc) before engine rebuild Mods at that time
12.38@113.00(20 psi, 110 octane, massive knock above 6k rpms)
12.41@115.10(ditto)
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12.8@108 (12.5 psi dropping to ~11 @redline, 2.0 60', pump gas, my tune)
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Old 11-19-2007, 06:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

I personal don't believe that it will weaken the tail due to all the stress is on the output shaft not on the housing UNLESS you have failing barings (and if this was the case it would be because the shaft is shifting around/not staying strait.) If you have opened up the tail, it is only bolted to the mid section which is where all the output parts are compressed to.




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Savannah, GA
1993 3000GT VR4 :: Mods :: New Short Block, APR Head Studs, Multi Layer Head Gasket, Port/Polish Heads, 560cc Lancer Injectors, 15G Turbos, 3.5 GM MAF With Translator, Dejon Blow Though Pre Turbo Pipes, 36x14x3 FMIC, 3inch Custom intake, 255 Walbro fuel pump hot wired, Fuellab Fuel Pressure Regulator, Precats removed, Greddy Type-RS BOV, Greddy E-01, AEM Wideband Air/Fuel, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, SPEC Stage 3 Plus Clutch, Steel front and mid transfer case upgrade, All sensors replaced, EGR block off, 3sx engine mounts, and some other stuff
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

What are the tell tale signs of a worn output shaft? I have noticed when I take my foot off the clutch after I have shifted I get a clunk or thud. When I try to release the clutch slowly, it engages smoothly. Could this be from my output shaft starting to strip, or do I just need to learn how to drive a stick? I thought at first that it could be worn motor mounts with excessive play, but I just threw on Maximal's solid mounts and it still does it.
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Old 11-30-2007, 06:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: How do I bullet-proof my Drivetrain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronatstate View Post
The stainless steel transfer case is for 25-spline and late 18-spline transfer cases only. It's the big bearing housing. If you have your original TC from a build date of 1990 you do not have a big bearing 18-spline or a 25-spline TC. The best thing to do would be to get a QUADCO shaft, and a TC bracket.
fixed that for ya
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