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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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So fall is here, I'm planning to do some modifications over the winter. First thing will be a new clutch, and maybe flywheel if necessary. As far as driveability, this car is not a DD, but still want it to be streetable. I will take it to the track occasionally, but I mostly get the car out of the garage for pleasure drivin or cruisin around town.
Currently I have only basic mods done.. Downpipe, Intake, BOV, Boost controller.. Probable Mods for this winter: CF Driveshaft. Looking at upgrading the fuel system. May just start with bigger injectors, maybe add an a/f controller. If i feel froggy might go all out with new turbos. Not sure what i'll be lookin at power wise, but that might help gauge the ballpark for a clutch. My friend that helped me do my mods suggested this clutch and flywheel (but this was before any plans past where I am at now): IPS Motorsports South Bend Stage 3 OFE I've also seen a lot of talk about the Spec clutches. Not sure which one I should be lookin at though. Thoughts? Also, do I need to change out the flywheel? Will it depend on what kind of clutch I go with?
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1996 VR4 --- Mods Done: Stillen Air Intake Kit --- Greddy Type-RS BOV (recirc) --- 3SX Stainless Steel Downpipe w/ rear precat eliminator --- Joe P MBC
On Order: ACT MB2-HDG6 Clutch and RPS Billet Segmented Flywheel ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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I know im new but i absolutly would not recomend the southbend i had one in my supra. It died after 6 months i didnt even drive the car that hard and 3 of the months where winter. The clutch was running on a non turbo 1986.5 MKIII supra with a fidanzda alumnium flywheel the pressure plate is mangled and the friction surface is almost zero i actually am currently in the process of replacing that clutch.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Forum user
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A lot of peolpe like the rps max pressure plate with a stock disk, drives nice and holds a lot of torque. My favorite is probably my spec stage 2 i have now, holds my 22psi race gas tune fine. If i go bigger yet on the turbos i'll probably take a spec stage 4+, never heard anything but good about that one.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I hate to say it but I bought an XTD stage 4 off of Ebay for 255$, so far its taking ALOT of abuse with no problems what so ever.
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1993 Panama Green VR4 - Cream interior - Black TE-37's with Nitto NT555's - XTD Stage 4 clutch - Kenwood headunit - KYB GR2's - 2 Infinity Baselinks - Infinity door and rear speakers - Dejon "Y" Pipe - Blitz BOV - Optima Red Top - Maximal Solid Mounts - Brass shift bushings - 14psi - restoring the car one mod at a time.
**Also parting out a 91 TT with 57,XXX original miles with blown motor. Pm me for details** |
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#5 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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If your going to get a new clutch set I would go a head with an act stage II or III either spec or act. I have a stage II spec from 3sx and its working out pretty well but what ever you do do not get a light weight flywheel. At least from my experience i can tell you that at low RPM's the flywheel slips when you go full pedal and it is quite a horrible feeling in the car. and if you want it to be an every day driver I suggest you do not buy a three or six puck pressure plate because its gonna be one tough and rough time in traffic.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Between Shadow and Light
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I would personally avoid SPEC... I have run one, it bit HARD, and didn't like to slip during a launch... drivability is a definite issue, ESPECIALLY when you combine it with an aluminum flywheel.
I have also literally melted both a DXD-C and a DXD-F... so I would avoid them as well... Lately, I have been running the HPF sintered Bronze friction disk with an RPS pressure plate... I am liking it. Yes it chatters a bit when you slip it, but unlike the SPEC, at least it slips. As for the rest of your mods... why the CFDS? If the old one ain't broke, there are MANY other mods with a higher bang/buck ratio.
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![]() 485 awhp (mustang dyno) on 93 pump gas (~524 dynojet equivalent) Only 20.5 psi on my lil' ol' GT368s with no water or alky injection Last edited by iceman_ii : 10-03-2008 at 08:14 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Unknown 3000GT VR4 :**
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If you want a good value and light pedal do RPS PP + Stock Disc
If you want holding power, it costs more $$ and heavier pedal go with HPF Kit (which is a RPS PP + Thier sprung 6 puck disc) capable of holding 700HP.
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![]() ![]() Daily: 2002 BMW 330ci (Angel Eyes+HID, 19" Rims, aFe Stage 2 Intake, ACS Exhaust, Interior Detailing) Wkend/Track/Kill Ride: Rare 1994 Custom Pearl White/Blue 3000GT VR4 - 82250 Miles - Weight: 3560lbs Best 1/4 Time: 13.0@???MPH with a ?.?? 60' Ft Click to read all about my rare 3000GT VR4 <---> Rate my vr4! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Damn It!
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Any ACT, Any Unsprung 6 puck Disc = PURE WIN
the extreme plates are ROUGH, you will have to work out to sink those things Stay away from Spec. They are GARBAGE the springs pop out of them cheap crap. Get an ACT and be happy. Im on my second one, love it wont run anyother brand in my car
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96 3000GT FWD TT -Rebuilt 2 bolt 8:1 block, balanced stock internals, valve job, 99 Lifters, Maximal Performance Motor mounts and valve cover!! Quaife LSD, ACT Max Extreme 6 puck, RPS flywheel, Greddy emanage Ultimate, custom fuel system i designed my self, profec B spec2, walbro 255lph, stock turbos, Braided steel upper and lower radiator hoses, KNN FPIK, FMIC, FM oil cooler, cusco Oil catch can, stillen DP, IPS 3" single, Full AC delete, stripped interior, Corbeau Forza 2 seat, 2 inch harness, ALL Greddy electronic gauges, brakes: 4 piston calipers from Yogurts TT, Hawk pads, Valvoline DOT 4, Russells steel lines
Coming soon: ![]() Thats right 12G72TT ![]() |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Unknown 3000GT VR4 :**
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Quote:
I went through 2-3 discs (ACT and then 2 oem) with that PP until it broke. Over 200 or so HARD launches in the 3yr period. |
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