Getrag 440/446 parts.

[A/V dude]

I just picked up a tube, on the back it says "use when mitsu specifies MD997740", so i guess it's the preferred...........

Would have been nice to use the high temp red that i have half a caulk tube full of, but i don't want to take any chances (high temp red works great on oil pans)

[RobBeck]

I use that gray on everything that IMO needs sealant, never any troubles. Throw all the other garbage away.

Rob

Originally Posted by A/V dude

I just picked up a tube, on the back it says "use when mitsu specifies MD997740", so i guess it's the preferred...........

Would have been nice to use the high temp red that i have half a caulk tube full of, but i don't want to take any chances (high temp red works great on oil pans)

[A/V dude]

I would too, problem is i can't find the gray in a caulk tube. Caulk tube makes the bead perfect and in 1 strip.

I just cased up this tranny and my arms are killing me from squezing that tube........

[Theo_VR4]

Originally Posted by A/V dude

I just cased up this tranny and my arms are killing me from squezing that tube........

http://www.tubewringer.com/

[Gatecrasher]

Buy the new pneumatic tubes they have at Pep Boys. They cost about $8 and you can work the trigger with one fingertip. I've sealed up 3 transmissions and one rear differential and I still have plenty left in the tube.

Definitely one of the bests inventions I've seen lately.

[Bret Brinkmann]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lucius

I started with BG after the engine rebuild and switched to Red Line and didn't notice a difference. Then I switched to Pennzoil Synchromesh and noticed shifting was very noticeably improved. But "big bucks" for Synchromesh? It cost about $4.50 at Auto Zone (if available) and I bought a case of 12 quarts for $52 (includes 7%+ tax). Red Line is like, what, $6-7 a quart? Hardly worth the extra cost.

Also, Synchromesh has NO GL rating. It is NOT GL-4; nor is it GL-5.

And, yes, Quaker State, Texaco, and GM products are the exact same formulation.

More info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm

Your site mentions that Pennzoil Synchromesh can be bought as EQUIVALENT brands but it doesn't say they are the same thing. I was under the impression that they WERE the same thing. I thought all the "synchromesh/synchroshift" labeled products were for that matter. Thanks for the info. I'll have to try the Pennzoil brand now to see if there is a difference for me. The fact that you stated you switched from BG to Red Line with out a noticable difference and then to Pennzoil and did notice a difference would suggest that at the very the least the Pennzoil brand is not equivalent to the BG brand. Perhaps I'll try all of the "synchromesh/synchroshift" labeled products for that matter.

I bought my GM synchromesh through the local GMC dealer for about $12 and some change a bottle plus tax. One bottle was not one quart either.... I have noticed that this dealership seems to charge more for their stuff. That would explain the big bucks pricing. I can get MTL for about $8 a qt including tax at local store. I know on line stores have better prices but not after I include shipping.

As for bearings, me and another memeber have been working on TCs lately and found all of our bearings at www.applied.com. Find a dealer near you. They were much cheaper than the local parts stores and are an autherized distributor for Timkin and Torrington bearings. I was working on a bearing number list for the five and six speeds as well as the TCs. But I need more time to complete the task.... Much much more time.... And a pay check or three...

[enigma9o7]

i thought synchroshift was gl-4 and synchromesh (Penzoil or GM) is a completely different product. I wish I still had a bottle of synchroshift around to see, but switched to synchromesh over the summer. I'm lucky, there's a repair shop in town that sells GM synchromesh cheaper than the local gmc or chevy dealer, but unlucky as nobody in town sells the penzoil version.

[aerOvr-4gto3k]

Im burned out on reading through all these posts. man there are alot of them...
These blocker rings that have been discussed, they are the same thing as the inner and outer synchronizer ring as labeled in the FSM right? On 1,2, and reverse gears there are rings that seem to be pressed on, are there replacements for thoes or do we have to buy new gears? The teeth on thoes rings are worn much worse than anything else. Sorry if you already covered this, ive just been reading and searching for about 4 hours now.
Chris

[Bret Brinkmann]

aerOvr-4gto3k - Blocker ring is one of many names for the same part. Yes they are the same thing. First and second gear accually have three synchro rings. An outer metal ring, middle friction ring (made of brass/bronze?), and an inner metal ring. The dog teeth that are worn will have to be replaced with the whole gear as an assembly. Nine times out of ten I have found the mating teeth on the synchronizer slider collar are also worn and also need to be replaced. Not much sense in replaceing one and not the other. The bad set of teeth will just wear out the good set.

[aerOvr-4gto3k]

hmm... not what i was hoping to hear about the dogs an gears... probably going to cost alot more on this rebuild than i thought. Im going to get ahold of kormex and see if they have thoes gears, otherwise i dont know where else to go. suggestions? - i may be able to get ahold of a tranny rebuild kit from someone i know, bearings and synchros. they said "wow,thats an extensive kit"... hopefully that means the collars will come with.
My main concern right now are thoes dogs being all chewed up. Im suprised someone hasnt made replacement dogs. i mean machining the old ones off and pressing on new ones wouldnt be hard at all. Only thing i could think that might cause a problem is if they need to be pressed on in a certain position
Chris