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#21 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Does anyone have a good used one I called around basiclly for now I cant afford spending more than 500$ on a driveshaft so I am looking to buy a good used one from someone who went CF or aluminum. Let me know and I will go from here on I just want to get the car back on the road. Thanks a lot for the help guys!!!
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#22 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I believe the only difference between the 5 and 6 speed is in the rear section of the drive shaft.
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'94 vr4 - gutted precats-no main cat/ cheap-ass catback w/ebay fartcans/ custom dp/ hotwired walbro pump/ 13T's/ E-manage/ PTE 680cc injectors/ Blitz sbc i-d/ SBC DXD clutch/ Unorthodox flywheel/PST CFDS/18" Fittipaldi Forces Falken GR Beta FK-451
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#24 (permalink) | |
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Breaks all but Xfer case
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Quote:
I got mine off a group buy for around $900. They are definately a great mod.
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![]() Black 93 VR-4 12.60 @ 108 w/ 9b's, 550's BlowThrough MAFT and E-Manage 11.77 @ 123 w/ 14b's (22psi), FMIC, MAFTPRO, 650's ??.?? @ ??? w/ 14b's (26psi) ??.?? @ ??? w/ 14b's (24psi) + NOS (35shot) Show and Go: HKS cat back, 98 rear garnish, EGR block off plates, Phantom boost guage, Walpro 255 lph, Intrax, JayVR4 control arms, 1-4 Syncros, Kormex output shaft, RPS MAX Street Disc, Resurfaced Flywheel, ATR Downpipe, HKS SQV, Dejon dual intakes, AEM Wideband, mobo shift/ebrake boots, Battery Relocation, MAFT PRO, 14B Turbos, DNP TDO5 Headers, Tial Wastegates, DNP FMIC, P+P Heads, 99 Lifters, Vac Reduction, 98 Body kit, 94 Robot headlights, Ross Pistons, Balanced Crank, Denso 650, IPO FPR w/ Gauge, Flexalite fans, Boost a Pump, ARP Head Studs, CF 575 Hood, 50HP NX Wet Kit, NOCAR Xfer Case, Veilside CF spoiler, ACPT CFDS, 19x9 SSR D5R, Blitz SBC-ID, Boomslang harness, Corbeau LG1's |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor
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if you need a whole factory DS i can send you a good one witrh carrier bearings, shipping is going to hurt but i guess i can do it for 500 shipped if your getting boned to hard from the one guy. I have a few factory ones here from carbon shaft swaps, let me know
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#26 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Yea, these U-joints suck. I have only 68k miles on mine and its got some "flat spots" in the U-joints. I brought it to a couple local custom driveshaft shops and they just told me to buy a new one. I mean, c'mon, you are a custom driveshaft shop, and you can't do custom work on this? Seriously, its not that hard once you have a machine shop available. There MUST be a U-joint of similar size in existence somewhere. I wouldn't mind coming up with some U-joint service "kits" to sell for a couple hundred bucks. They can be serviced if the parts exist
The thing that makes them go bad is that the grease in the joints has just dried up over the last 15 years and now it is corroded and and the joints are frozen. Simple as that. Not really a wear and tear item per say.
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92 Stealth R/T TT 70k
92 Daytona ES 2.5 Turbo / A523 103k 92 Lebaron GTC Conv. 2.5 Turbo / A568 153k 91 Daytona ES 3.0 V-6 / A543 190k 95 Grand Prix SE 3.1 / 4T60E 202k ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#28 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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U-joints can be replaced but they have to be carefully ground down from a similar joint.It is extremely difficult but is possible.Notchy u-joints on these shafts can be freed up by setting the yoke on concrete and centering the joint with a hammer and slightly smaller socket.Work the joint back and forth with a firm rap until it centers and free's up.My next step is going to be drilling and taping a xerk fitting on each cup end for lubrication.
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#29 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Hey guys thanks a lot for the info so rebuilding one is possible I was quoted about 400$ with the parts I decided it just makes much much more sense to just buy a good used one as many people are going with a aluminum or with a CFDS. So again if anyone else is interested in selling a GOOD driveshaft and I dont even need the carrier bearings if it comes with them ok fine. Let me know I need something to hold up until I can actually afford buying a good Aluminum or a CFDS later when I get my funds straight. Thanks a lot!!!
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