Driveshaft Help please!!!

[Street_Chally73]

A new factory replacement driveshaft would drop you back close to $1,000.00 and the aftermarket ones go for around $1,300.00. If you get new U-joints, companion flange, and carrier bearings, you're looking at ~$300-$400 tops for all that. Provided your driveshaf sections aren't bent or damaged (usually shouldn't be), I'd go this route to save you some extra money. I know many use the CF 1-piece unit, but I'd be hesitant due to additional vibration from not being divided into sections.

[stans3000gt]

Originally Posted by Street_Chally73

A new factory replacement driveshaft would drop you back close to $1,000.00 and the aftermarket ones go for around $1,300.00. If you get new U-joints, companion flange, and carrier bearings, you're looking at ~$300-$400 tops for all that. Provided your driveshaf sections aren't bent or damaged (usually shouldn't be), I'd go this route to save you some extra money. I know many use the CF 1-piece unit, but I'd be hesitant due to additional vibration from not being divided into sections.

Hey thanks a lot for the info I agree with what you said it is the U joints that are shot in my car. I already purchased the 2 new carrier bearings and I think that I will fix the driveshaft. I also called some dealerships (stealerships that is) And I think I figured out that my car is 25 spline T case which is good news. My car is a early 1992 but we compared parts numbers to a 1993 and to a 1991 and my cars T case matched the 1993 I believe that means I have a 25 spline. I know It needs to be taken apart and counted to be sure but before I do that its nice to know.

Also my second option is to buy a Used driveshaft in good shape from someone as well as they are dirt cheap now A QUESTION does it matter if its 25 spline or 18 spline to be able to get a driveshaft OR is it just 5 speed VS. 6 speed. Thanks a lot!

[Street_Chally73]

I'm quite positive you would need to get the correct driveshaft, depending on whether you have the 18-spline MTX/TC or the 25-spline MTX/TC. I think I read somewhere the 25-spline transmission uses a longer tail section, so the driveshaft is a little shorter than what is used for the 18-spline setups. I'd wait for someone else that has more experience with these cars to verify this so you get the right driveshaft assembly if you go that route.

[JeffWVR4]

I'm fairly certain that the difference in drive shafts is a 1st gen vs 2nd gen thing (5spd vs 6spd). The 1st gen 5spds with 25 spline or 18 splines use the same drive shaft. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

The other thing about the driveshaft is that at one time, and I thought it was still this way, you cannot replace the U-joints, but instead have to replace the entire drive shaft. The reason was that the U-joints were held inplace with spotwelds. And even if you could cut them loose and remove them, Mitsubishi did not offer replacement U-joints. Perhaps by now someone has come up with a suitable replacement.

[stans3000gt]

Originally Posted by JeffWVR4

I'm fairly certain that the difference in drive shafts is a 1st gen vs 2nd gen thing (5spd vs 6spd). The 1st gen 5spds with 25 spline or 18 splines use the same drive shaft. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

The other thing about the driveshaft is that at one time, and I thought it was still this way, you cannot replace the U-joints, but instead have to replace the entire drive shaft. The reason was that the U-joints were held inplace with spotwelds. And even if you could cut them loose and remove them, Mitsubishi did not offer replacement U-joints. Perhaps by now someone has come up with a suitable replacement.

Thanks a lot for that info Spoken like an expert who has 210K miles on his VR-4 hahaha thanks. I think you are deffinatly right because its what I am coming to find out, Also the fact that they are not possible to service is correct but some people are checking for me I called some big companies who said they could and I am waiting on pricing. Is it normal that the driveshaft Would go bad at about 130K, by saying bad I am meaning the U joints basiclly becuase unless I am wrong and correct me nothing else goes wrong, I mean I am talking to people who have well over 130K and no problems as they are saying also you have about 210K on your car ever have to replace it?? Anyone any info would be great this is good information for everyone. I do have the carrier bearings New from mitsu so thats a strart. Thanks

[OwnGTP/WantRTTT]

1-piece CFDS and never look back. I too was very worried about the vibration so I was hesitant for a couple years until I could feel my stock DS banging around on every shift due to the carrier bearings. 135mph so far and not a vibration to speak of. I love my ACPT shaft, and the price I got it for was even better.

[stans3000gt]

Problem is I cant afford 1000$ right now on a CFDS its 1000$ and thats out of my budget right now I just want to get it running cause its my daily driver and I can't afford for it to be down for a long time. I will buy a new car soon than I will be able to have this one as a hobby and buy the CFDS and do all the crazy stuff to it. THanks a lot for that info though makes me less worried about buying 1 piece I mean I purchased a 3000gt cause it driver very smooth If i wanted vibrating car that feels like a tractor I would have purchased a Civic LOL . Sad thing is I had one but it was free hahahaha.

[JeffWVR4]

I replaced my driveshaft at 145K miles. The carrier bearings were not in good shape, but the U-joints weren't too bad. The reason for replacement was a mod thing. I went with a 2-pc aluminum shaft which was lighter, and it eliminated one of the U-joints and carrier bearings. At that time (almost 6 years ago) it cost $770 including some machine shop work to adapt the rear diff flange, and I had to send them my old shaft. http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

[stans3000gt]

Originally Posted by JeffWVR4

I replaced my driveshaft at 145K miles. The carrier bearings were not in good shape, but the U-joints weren't too bad. The reason for replacement was a mod thing. I went with a 2-pc aluminum shaft which was lighter, and it eliminated one of the U-joints and carrier bearings. At that time (almost 6 years ago) it cost $770 including some machine shop work to adapt the rear diff flange, and I had to send them my old shaft. http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

Oh wow thanks a lot. JW is there a warranty on the driveshaft?? thanks.


Also if anyone has a used one let me know I will gladly buy a good used one I do have new carrier bearings like i said before. Thanks a lot guys!

[JeffWVR4]

http://www.3si.org/forum/attachment....3&d=1138731280

Can't remember about the warranty, but I've had no issues whatsoever. Neither did the other two Stealth owners who purhcased one at the same time.