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#1 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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I took off normal from and intersection turning right and at 10mph SNAP! Then the sound of tumbling parts and it felt like the wheels were going to lock up when said parts tumble the wrong way. I coasted into the gas station and when I cut the wheel it felt like it was locking up again... under no power with the clutch engaged. Since I was only 1/4 mile from home I babied it to the garage 5mph hazards on while testing out the different gears. It coasts ok in or out of gear until I cut the wheel. It literally sounds like a dryer full of hammers if I give it any gas, especially on a hill. It didnt lock up completely but it felt like it would, I think I was really doing some damage when I gave it any gas.
I am guessing the symptoms would rule out a transaxle or vcu/TC. Hopefully. Any suggestions appreciated. I have never had a CV joint sound this bad. I looked in the manual and the axles are BJ/TJ, which I've never heard of before, I've changed honda axles before, I dunno how much harder this one would be. It looks like some special tools are required? I've never experienced a bad wheel bearing, but it seems it wouldn't be this loud. I'd like to use this opportunity as a "forced upgrade" to improve the weak spot with better than OEM parts. What's a good place to get beefed up axles, joint kit, or whatever else might be my problem?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Slowed by traffic
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For good quality rebuilt cv axles, raxles.com is a source, but they're not beefed up (that I'm aware of).
Could it just be wheel bearings... maybe you just need to replace the hub? I think you'd be able to see a snapped axle.... (I'm just guessing tho)
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1991 Red JDM Mitsubishi GTO SR - Daily Driver Dec 2001 - May 2002. SOLD
RHD, AWD/AWS, Aero, Automatic, Naturally Aspirated _________________________ 1993 Panama Green Pearl Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Daily Driver July 2002 - April 2006 & May 2007. Totalled by drunk driver who hit it while parked on a 25mph street May 20 2007 10:30pm. STOP/GO: Southbend DXD 6-puck Clutch, K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (FIPK), ProBoost Manual Boost Controller (MBC), M-Spec Vacuum Reduction Kit, Stillen Downpipe. Powerslot Front Rotors w/Hawk HPS Pads. SUSPENSION/DRIVETRAIN: Intrax Springs, Bilstien Rear Shocks, KYB GR2 Front Struts, 5Zigen FN01RC 18x8.5 +30 & 18x9.5 +35 Wheels with Nitto Extreme Performance 245/40/18 & 285/35/18 Tires (summer), 245/45/17 Bridgestone Blizzak WS50 on Spyder Chromies (winter), PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft (CFDS), Unorthodox Racing Aluminum Flywheel. LOOKS: 5% Tint, Snakeeyes, Niteshades, Mobo Leathers Lower Door Inserts, 3KGT Concepts Aluminum Defroster Vents, Speedhut EL-Glo Gauge Faces AUDIO/VISUAL: JBL GTO220s, Pioneer TS-A1646 2-ways & Stock 6x9s all powered by Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.1 Dolby Digital Amp, Infinity 1032W 10" Fiberglass Mounted Subs powered by Rockford Fosgate 501bd Amplifer, 7" Motorized LCD DVD/TV/FM/MP3 Deck, SWIX Steering Wheel Control Interface COUNTERMEASURES: Blinder M10 Twin Laser Jammer, Scorpion Ultimate KA Radar Jammer, Radio Shack PRO-2067 Mobile Scanner Radio SECURITY/CONVENIENCE: Compustar 2-Way Spread Spectrum Alarm/Autostart/Turbo Timer/Keyless Entry. _________________________ 1992 Black Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo - Project car, currently off the road with unsolvable problem. _________________________ 1995 Black VR-4 Spyder - Current Daily Driver, purchased March 2005. PST Carbon Fiber Driveshaft, Southbend TZ Clutch, K&N FIPK, DNP Y-Pipe, Stillen Downpipe, Custom Single Shot Exhaust, Ohio Spyderman short shifter, Mobo leather shift boot, manual leather seats from an SL. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Greetings, - your issues sounds like my initial problem. My transfer case froze due to lack of fluid (it had leaked out before I bought the case, the "innerads" froze up while I was driving it back home from the initial purchase). The rear wheels froze up. After towing (it froze up on me between Phoenix where I bought the car and Big Bear Lake, CA where I lived) the tow truck driver told me that "it all unfroze after it cooled down". What I think actually happened is that they exerted enough force in getting the car off the tow truck to break the output shaft - a shaft that comes out of the transmission into the transfer case - thus turning the "innerads" that turn the drive shaft that turn the rear differential that turn the rear wheels. The grinding could the the part of the output shaft that can still spin grinding upon the broken part that is in the transfer case that is frozen. The car could still drive in front wheel only.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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update: yeah that's what it was a trashed transfer case. It is full of metal chunks. I'm still waiting on the new one to come in.
The fluid was still full. I think the initial cause was worn engine mounts which allowed the drive angle to put too much stress on it. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Certified White Boy
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WOA!! yeah, check the transfer case. has it been fixed from the recall?
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"Clutch-Eater"
-1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin turbo AWD, Dynamic Racing stage II heads, 99 lifters, 6-speed Getrag from 99 vr4, SPEC Stage 4 clutch, TEC 15g's, Greddy blow off valve, Dejon Powerhouse Blow-Thru Intake Pipes, DSM sidemounts, Denso fuel pump, 550cc fuel injectors, Apexi SAFC, HKS VPC, Apexi AVCR, msd ignition dis-4, MSD 8.5mm wires, NGK coppers 1 stage colder, alamo y-pipe, custom exhaust from turbos back, highflow cat, Lowered, Nitto tires. "Knockin' Beater" -1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS |
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