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#12 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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Just finally got my car back this past Friday. Yea the flywheel was trashed w/ over 1/8" wore off it...The clutch was seom crazy ceramic 6 puck that was in there previously and the pressure plate was all spider cracked and chewed up. The clutch disc was worn down into the rivets. Basically it was shot. My mechanic also mentioned out of the 6 bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine, 2 were in there but barely which worries me... Once it all came apart we found out that my input shaft seal was shot as well. Had that replaced and new starter with new rps flywheel and spec stage 2+ clutch. Car drives EXCELLENT! Never has this thing shifted sooo smoothly. I can put it into ANY gear with 1 finger. However a new symptom has developed. The gears feel a lot closer. Like 1-2 is fine but going from 2-3 or 3-4 is really difficult. Not hard to push in gear but like hard to find it...It will go like 2-1 sometimes or 2-5. The gears feel terribly close together now and I am not sure if that has to do with the linkage or what. It never blocks me out or grinds or anything just goes in then i realize it is back in 1st or in 5th...REALLY frustrating but I am trying to look into the cause. Easiest way to put it is it seems like my gears all moved to the right some. Like before 3rd would be from nuetral straight up and 4th was from nuetral straight down. Now straight up is 1st and straight down is 2nd and everything else has been pushed to the right slightly... Any ideas would be great
Also, no more clutch drag ![]()
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Mod List: K&N cone, DNP Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL BOV, Custom down pipe and full 3" exhaust, Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller @ 15PSI, Apexi SAFC-II, 450CC DSM Blacktop Injectors, MSD 8.5MM wires w/ NGK copper plugs, Spec Stage 2+ clutch, RPS Billet Flywheel, Custom stereo system, Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood, Enkei 18"x8.5" RZ-5 wheels w/ Falken Ziex 912, AEM WB 02, HHH Hybrid Logger w/ wideband integrated, VAC reduction, EGR delete w/ blockoffs, Mcculloch 10,000K HID low beams |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Certified Car Nut
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Check to make sure that the bracket that holds the two shifter cables onto the bellhousing is bolted tightly, and that both cable ends are securely fastened to the gear change levers on the tranny. Sometimes this is overlooked during installation.
Also, you said something about 2 of the 6 bolsts missing. There are also 2 stay brackets that help secure the lower part of the bellhousing to teh bock. There's 4 bolts securing these two brackets to the bellhousing. Are those missing too?
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Jeff W.
Red '92 VR4 213,000 mile daily driver that run's 11's! Once I convinced the wife I needed 600hp to drive to work every day, 1/4 mile at a time, the rest was easy ![]() Big 16G Turbos w/adapter plates, DR Stage 3 heads, 92mm Wiseco pistons, PTE 680cc injectors, Pre-cat eliminators w/dump tubes, ARC2 fuel controller, HKS Twin-Power Ignition, HKS EVC IV BC, HKS SSBOV, Alamo I/C's and HardPipe kit, ATR DP, Borla exhaust, NeedsWings Electronic Exhaust Cutout, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Denso Stage1 fuel pump, DR Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit, South Bend FE/SS clutch, Boost Cooler water/meth injection, DynoTech Metal-Matrix aluminum driveshaft, no cats, Eibach lowering springs, PwerStop/Stillin rotors, Goodrich SS brake lines, PSI Tire Pressure Monitor System, AEM Wide-Band O2, Fittipaldi wheels, 2-tone all-leather Interior. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Verified Seller
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Quote:
Rob |
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