Just as an update on this, different trans fluid didn't help. I'm gonna flush it tomorrow and put in MT-90 and see what that does. I just hate wasting fluid because it leaks out the linkage.
Adjusting the linkage made it much easier to hit my gears correctly, but the notchiness is still there, and sometimes feels like it's scraping on the way into 3rd, no grind though.
edit: MT-90 made it shift a lot better, but maybe it was the 10W-30 I threw in on top.
Mine does a slight grind or more like a grr feeling in the shifter when it goes into 5th and high rpms at WOT, otherwise all my gears feel like a rifle. I have an OhioSpyder Bob short shifter with all other stock bushings. I love the way this tranny feels compared to my Tremec in the GTO. Locking you out of first happens more in the Tremec, then this car but I know the Tremec is tough so I dont worry as much with that car.
Just as an update on this, different trans fluid didn't help. I'm gonna flush it tomorrow and put in MT-90 and see what that does. I just hate wasting fluid because it leaks out the linkage.
Adjusting the linkage made it much easier to hit my gears correctly, but the notchiness is still there, and sometimes feels like it's scraping on the way into 3rd, no grind though.
edit: MT-90 made it shift a lot better, but maybe it was the 10W-30 I threw in on top.
so you have fluid leaking out where the shifter cables attach? you can fix that easy if that is the case.
That's a hard place for a tranny to leak from since that thing is around 1 o'clock on the tranny when it's bolted up, I wouldn't think fluid makes it up there very often.
I might try getting a very thin o-ring and cutting it to get it around the shaft and shoving it down with a small screwdriver.
I only ever use Pensoil Syncromesh fluid. try searching for the part number for the Mitsubishi part "friction Modifier" it's a small bottle that you add to a filled tranny through the speed sensor hole. I've added it in the past and i think it helps shifting but ultimately worn syncros are not going to get better no matter what you add to the oil. Adjusting the cables under the shifter also can help. i lived with reverse jumping out for almost 2 years before i tried to fix it and all it took was a few minutes adjusting the cable length to get them centered when the shifter was in neutral.
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Longwood Florida
DR500 turbos, ProfecB Spec II, No cats, Modified Stillen DP, 3" pipe with dual N1 cans, Walbro FP, TurboXS BOV, Stillen pads, Rotors, DXD clutch, Fidanza flywheel. MAFT, bigass KNN filter, 550cc injectors. 3SX lower mounts. Tien S springs. Jays93VR4 rear upper arms. Aluminum intake pipes, 3SX light pulley.
Still to install, Pre cat eliminators.
I've put a few more miles on it today, and the fluid change fixed it. It wasn't bad synchros, I don't think. It would never grind unless I screwed up, it was only rough, like it would have to pop in one notch, and then another. It's hard to describe.
I also adjusted the cables, and that helped a LOT, but it was never perfect until I swapped to MT90.
I was using some crummy GL4 I could find locally. Not good :/
Pensoil or GM syncromesh is all i've ever used since i last had my tranny rebuilt which happened shortly after trying other oils and i swear the oils made it worse. Syncromesh and the Mitsubishi friction modifier additive are what our syncros need. any other oil is not going to be right for them and you can never repair any damage to a tranny once it's done unless you have it rebuilt.
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Re: "Clunky" Transmission
