Car seems to "wander" or "float" randomly

[jba3]

I hope this is the right subforum (drivetrain)?

Anyway, I recently purchased a VR4. I was able to test drive, etc and the car felt pretty good. However, I didn't hammer on it, since it wasn't mine, out of respect. After buying the car and pushing it a couple times, I've noticed it seems to randomly hop a little, mostly on the highway.

Both tie rod ends were shot, the boots had split completely. I replaced those. I tried a different set of wheels and tires. I also got an alignment done and it's within +.02 and -.03 so it's way within spec. The car just randomly seems to hop a bit. It's not enough to cause a wreck, but it's enough I am nervous traveling next to someone. There's a few things I found out while searching around, so maybe it's one (or a combo) of these:

1) The car has 101,xxx on it, so I'm guessing it may be somewhat related to the ECS? I am debating on coilovers, but want to be sure that it would fix the problem.

2) The steering wheel, even in sport mode, is a bit loose ... it will kinda "shake" a bit and is not firm.

3) The active aero (front) was whacked off in a competition with some trash on the road, and the body-colored portion of the car is dented up quite a bit. The steering floating feels like it could be the front wheels giving a little, but I don't really see how it would flex with the motor + mounts keeping the car straight as well as I have noticed any spider cracks in the bumper paint or anything else. I've been told that piece of the car is used to mount an FMIC, etc and isn't a part of the frame itself. (looking for a pic to clarify more).

Anyone have some things for me to check, or try, to resolve this? I'd love to get things resolved before ECG so I can take the car.

NOTE: End goals with the car are a high performance street car. IE, coilovers, engine work, middle-ground turbos (15G or e16g, undecided). I also have coilovers on my other car and don't mind the ride.

Thanks!

[njrbd]

100,000 miles on ecs shocks might be the answer. Replace those with fresh ones, adn the ride should get more controlling.

[93RTTurbo]

There's some sway links in the rear suspension...cannot think what they are called...some sort of "assembly"...anyhow, when I had mine done, and the parts were only around $40 give or take, the difference in handling was enormous! It was like a new car.

I remember the special bolts had to be ordered from Mitsubishi, I think they were about $12, but that was the most drastic improvement in handling for the least amount of money, I have ever seen. Someone I am sure, knows what the correct name of this rear suspension part is, it escapes me at the moment.

I know exactly what you are referring to, where it hits a bump (or even barely a bump) and it seems like it's going to fly into the other lane...it was awful...handled like a farm truck. Although I had the inner and outer tie rods, steering rack and pinion assembly, ball joints, new cv axles, adjustable coilovers, adjustable control arms, and other suspension work done, that rear suspension part replacement was the most drastic improvement!

[jba3]

Originally Posted by 93RTTurbo

There's some sway links in the rear suspension...cannot think what they are called...some sort of "assembly"...anyhow, when I had mine done, and the parts were only around $40 give or take, the difference in handling was enormous! It was like a new car.

I remember the special bolts had to be ordered from Mitsubishi, I think they were about $12, but that was the most drastic improvement in handling for the least amount of money, I have ever seen. Someone I am sure, knows what the correct name of this rear suspension part is, it escapes me at the moment.

I know exactly what you are referring to, where it hits a bump (or even barely a bump) and it seems like it's going to fly into the other lane...it was awful...handled like a farm truck. Although I had the inner and outer tie rods, steering rack and pinion assembly, ball joints, new cv axles, adjustable coilovers, adjustable control arms, and other suspension work done, that rear suspension part replacement was the most drastic improvement!

Yes, that's exactly what it's doing! And sadly yes the steering is worse than my 88 GMC 4x4 haha. Definitely glad to hear it's a cheap fix.

Was it the rear sway bar you're thinking of? That's the only other part I can think of that I know the names to.

[eppopipe]

any update on this?

[92RTTT]

with the play, it sounds like a rack and pinion problem

[jba3]

Originally Posted by eppopipe

any update on this?

Oops! Yes, I ended up swapping out for a different set of wheels/tires, getting an alignment, and it's been fine for a long time now.

When I replaced the tires on the rims that were on there, I was told that one rim was way out of balance. I suspect that was the culprit all along.

Completely forgot to follow up on the thread.

[DocWalt]

I actually had the exact same problem, combined with worn inner tie rod ends. Getting the tires balanced and cleaning all the wheel mating surfaces fixed my shake at high speeds (make sure to clean the surfaces of any corrosion or dirt. before I did that and after the balancing, the shake at 80mph went away and came back about 5 times worse at around 50-60mph)

[jba3]

Originally Posted by eppopipe

any update on this?

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I actually had the exact same problem, combined with worn inner tie rod ends. Getting the tires balanced and cleaning all the wheel mating surfaces fixed my shake at high speeds (make sure to clean the surfaces of any corrosion or dirt. before I did that and after the balancing, the shake at 80mph went away and came back about 5 times worse at around 50-60mph)

I would guess the tires were absorbing most of the shake before, and it was more prominent after fixing the tires because they weren't taking the vibration any more. Glad you got it fixed.

[phantomrt]

I have a similar issue with my TT Stealth. Just my luck, the road I take for 25 of my 31 mile commute has pretty deep "ruts" in it. Probably caused by lots of gravel hauling trucks that go down that road regularly. But anyway, you have to stay on your toes because if you get to the edge of the ruts, the car will want to bolt to the side one way or another. My '97 Intrepid did it similarly, but not as bad. That had a toe alignment issue that I never got around to fixing before I sold the car.

All the joints are tight, sway bar links are tight, AWS components are tight, I did the wheel alignment myself, and the only thing wrong was the right front wheel caster being barely within spec. I blamed it on the wide, stiff sidewall tires causing it to climb out of the ruts in that road and making the car want to bolt to the left or the right. Everywhere else, there is no such handling issue.