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#51 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Does anybody know the causes of backlash in the transaxle? Declan
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, ek2mfg plenum spacer, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
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#52 (permalink) |
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The New Super Pimp
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either horribly worn gears, os wear, vcu/center diff slop, clutch spline slop, clutch friction plate issues, or bad bearings off the top of my head
have fun ![]()
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93 Sandstone VR4
11.66 @ 117.48mph with Maddog Performance Engineering 13T's This weeks specials: CUSTOM RUBBER INTERCOOLER PIPING AT 50% OFF!!! 28 HOUR ENGINE REBUILD ONLY $700 ![]() |
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#53 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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As Maddog mentioned there are many things that would cause play in the transaxle , but I'm assuming that the ovious was looked at when replacing the shaft and VCU . When was the last time that the clutch disk was looked at ? It can also be missing springs , I though about this when you mentioned parking lot driving . You see how hard it is to try and troubleshoot remotely ? anyway if you take it as a challange to fix this I will help as much as I can . Frank |
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#54 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I understand it is very difficult to troubleshoot things remotely and I appreciate all of your help.
As far as the propeller shaft play is concerned, I have to admit I didn't actually measure it, it was more of a rough estimate on my part. Concerning the transaxle, I just finishied installing a new 300m output shaft, a new VCU (the old VCU was bad) and a new planetary gear assembly. There is 2mm of slop that comes from the new planetary gear assembly dowel pins sitting loosely in the new VCU, but I've come to the realization that I'm just going to have to live with this, because the new parts had the same amount of slop as my old parts. ![]() Regarding the clutch, I installed a brand new clutch (centerforce DF) back in June. At this time, I checked the clutch splines/input shaft splines and they looked good and the clutch was a very tight fit. Since this time I haven't been able to really abuse my car, because I've been breaking in the new clutch and trying to track down the cause of this clunking. Personally, I can't see it being the clutch, as I had this problem when I was still running the OEM clutch. As far as the gears are concerned, I took a quick peak at them when I had the center diff. apart and my _untrained_ eye could see nothing amiss. This definitely does not rule out worn gears, but with that being said, I've been led to believe that our synchros are the weakest point in our transaxle and you'd think they'd wear out before the gears would (mine are still in great shape)?? This leaves me with bad bearings and/or a bad center differential carrier, or do you guys have anything else to check or add to the list? The thing that I can't figure out is, why does the clunk not occur if push down on the clutch while in decel and then slip the clutch back into gear (while giving it throttle) to accel.? Thanks again. Declan |
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#55 (permalink) |
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Forest Gump
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I wouldn't trust the dealer saying the driveshaft is good as gospel. I think it was Bret Brinkman who had a bad shaft that would only cause problems under heavy load. It could not be shown faulty testing it on a bench.
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![]() Power: DSM 13G/DR650 Combo, DSM 450 cc bluetops MAXED out, SAFC I, K&N, Ebay Downpipe, ATR Dual Catback, no cats, DN Y-Pipe, Polished Plenum and Valve Cover, HKS SSQV, HKS EVC 5 at 14.5PSI, Walbro 255 with AN Bulkhead Suspension: KYB GR-2 - Tein S-Techs, Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, 17" chromies, Nitto 555s Drivetrain: RPS Street Max, M.W. 300m O/S Etc: Smokinvr-4 Corner box, 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub, Eclipse Headunit Leatherseats.com Charcoal/Dove Grey Interior, 99 front end/lights/wing Maintenance New VSS, all 60K stuff, new 1st,2nd, 3rd syncro, trans seals, oil pump, rod and main bearings. JEDI MASTER SAFC NARROWBAND BASED TUNER, LORD OF THE DANCE ALSO |
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#58 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I'm not sure if this is of significance or not, but a few months ago I had a datalog of the clunk. I was accelerating in 2nd up until about 6k and then I let off the gas suddenly (because a cop came out of nowhere). This caused the clunk with the violent jerking back and forth and on the log this came up as fluctuating timing. If I remember correctly, 15 degrees of timing was pulled, for a split second and then it went back to normal. Is normal for a car that is decelerating?
Declan |
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#59 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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As far as the CF driveshaft is concerned, if I had the money to burn, I'd buy one. However, I don't want to go and replace everything in my driveline/drivetrain only to find out that it was something else and still be stuck with the same problem. Declan |
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#60 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Bearings or gears would have other Symptoms I would still have you check the front drive axles for slop in the front carrier assembly. |
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