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#151 (permalink) | ||
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I'm a dude.
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Is this the slop you are referring to?
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#152 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Yeah its not much, but I figured every little bit helps.
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, ek2mfg plenum spacer, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
Last edited by DoctorDex : 04-17-2008 at 11:41 AM. |
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#153 (permalink) |
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been here way too long
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Interesting thread. I also have a pretty loud clunk when lifting off the throttle from moderately hard acceleration. I thought it sounded like it was coming from the rear. I have a good tranny, DS, and rear differential from my wrecked TP1, will change the DS first, then tranny (current one has an oil leak plus I think TP1 had an upgraded clutch in it), will also probably install solid mounts when I change the tranny. Last step if still clunking will be to change the differential. Will post outcome later.
Bill
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#154 (permalink) | |
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I'm a dude.
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Quote:
Thanks Antoni |
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#155 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Never did find definite answers to these questions, but according to the machine shop where I had the pins made, the 4340 Heat Treated Stress Reduced (HTSR) steel should be more than enough/overkill when it comes to strength/hardness.
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#156 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I'm beginning to wonder if it might be "normal" for AWD mitsus to have a bit of a clunk? I went for a ride in my friends Evo IX and he has a clunk as well, which is especially noticeable between hard shifts. His car has always been babied and it is very low miles so I doubt its a tranny wear issue. Does anybody have a VR4 or has anyone ridden in a VR4 that doens't clunk between hard shifts? How about when going from decel to hard accel without touching the clutch? |
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#157 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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If you think of all the parts in the driveline/tranny and all the gears that mesh up there`s bound to be some slop. Plus the CV joints will have a some play and there`s 8 of them..
Mines only really noticable when I play with the car to make it do it, normal driving isn`t bad at all and I have to set the rear diff backlash yet.
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JDM GTO TT, Emanage Blue - 450`s Hotwired Walbro - Gutted MAS - K&N Blitz SSBC - Aquamist Water Injection |
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#158 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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Fortunately I was lucky, my transaxle backlase proved to be a combination of a worn output shaft, wasted coupler too
(It was a REAL BITCH to get off). And the rear motor mount was slightly torn. I should post a pic of my output shaft. When I had my tranny apart I noticed the sun gear(the one that rides on the output shaft in the VCU Had parts of the output shaft worn on it. Wierd, looked like lack of lubrication. I ground it off. My tranny feels great now. My VCU was okay, amazing considering the abuse I now understand this car endurred. The entire drivetrain feels more positive and engaged !!
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DR650R's, supra fuel pump hotwired and aem fuel pressure regulator with bob beck adapter, addicted performance front mount intercooler and piping, ceramin coated inside and out, ebay knockoff DN headers, cusom stillen downpipe, Borla catback, precision turbo 550cc injectors, RPS MAX series clutch, street disc, and RPS segmented aluminum flywheel, 3sx braided stainless turbo feed and return lines, 3sx braided clutch line, fidanza adjustable cam gears, arc2 fuel controller with ford MAS, greddy E-manage blue for fine tuning and timind control, Greddy profec E-01 for boost control, AEM widemand O2, arm-1 narrow band o2, autometer boost gauge, HKS ssqv with custom recirc adapter, 3sx fuel rail adapter.
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#159 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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There is something wrong with my intermediate shaft that may or may not be linked to this backlash issue.
I recently installed some solid mounts which give the advantage of being able to hear ever little noise the tranny is not supposed to be making. People with healthy tranny's and solid mounts don't complain of hearing these noises, so I know my tranny must be sick. Here is what happens: When the car is cold, no noise. Once I put the car through its paces and the tranny is hot, I can hear a metal on metal sound, similar to the sound of a grinding wheel lightly touching metal, which is heard mostly in the lower rpms (<2000 rpm). Above 2000 rpm the sound frequency increases to a point where it is drowned out by engine noise. The sound is most noticeable in 5th gear cruising between 1600 - 2000 rpm. The noise doesn't occur when revving in neutral. The noise is not related to clutch position. I am not sure what exactly is making the noise, but I have a hunch it might be the fifth gear lightly rubbing on the VCU-planetary case; perhaps because of worn intermediate shaft bearing race on the end cover? Is this possible? When I last had my end cover off, my intermediate shaft bearing race looked as though it had significant wear, but I didn't bother to replace it as it hadn't given me any trouble (to my knowledge). With regards to the backlash issue, one would think this would cause increased lash because the intermediate shaft would not be pressed up tightly against the input shaft and the gear teeth would not mesh as tightly. Or would this not matter because of the design of the worm gears? |
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#160 (permalink) |
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Gear Head
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I saw an EXTREMELY worn tappered bearing on the end cover side of the counter shaft once. The only concern the customer had was that the tranny popped out of reverse a lot and 5th gear was starting to get notchy. The counter shaft had about 1/4 in of end play as opposed to having bearing preload. Pretty scarey to me.... And that was a reman from Mitsu with only about 1K miles on it.
The center diff housing never touched any of the gears, but the gears were deffinately not meshing properly from that shaft flopping around. The only gear that needed to be replaced was reverse and that was only because the dogs where hammered. Bearings usually make a whinning sound when they start to go out. Some times they can make a slight grinding sound as you are describing. Either way, a lot more wear has to occur before they get as bad as the one I mentioned above. If you drain your gear oil look for flakes of metal on the magnet and metal powder through out the fluid. Those are signs of bearing failure. I do no have a clucking sound in my VR-4. I can get a popping sound from the rear due to my worn trailing arm bushing or the worn rubber in the rear third section of drive shaft, but that is what I get for going RWD and having too much fun. I also noticed that when I first had me RPS II clutch, I had to slightly adjust the way I used the clutch to prevent a slight cluck in the drive train. Not a hugh clutch, but noticable if you paid attention. My SPEC I does not have this problem.AWD cars should have more backlash than a 2WD car but even an AWD car can develope excessive backlash. Takeing up backlash in other non-worn componants that are with in spec can help reduce the sound but the sound will still be there until the source of the problem is corrected. But first, lets make sure your bearings are good. That phattlard guy also had a popped VCU. You can tell from the black ring on the VCU around the splined section that the sun gear goes into.
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When asked what the best thing to come out of Italy is, most Italians will tell you Ferrari.... But if you ask me it was Super Mario Brothers.
![]() 250 RWHP If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at SavagTiger@AOL.com. 94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end. |
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