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#91 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Thanks. I'll definitely check that next time, along with the rear diff mounts next time I get a chance to work on my car (which will hopefully be this weekend). Do you have a rough estimate of how much play you get with the new bearings?
Did replacing the old carrier's help solve your clunk?
__________________
'91 VR4 - Rebuild in progress: Mods TBA.
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#92 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Haven`t replaced them yet, but the rear one is definitely the worste and that`s where the noise is coming from, hopefully someone who has fitted new carrier bearings will chime in. I`m goint to strap them down (similar to the cable tie mod) for the moment, buying a clutch has taken up the last of my disposable money for the moment.. I believe the rubber portion of the carriers has just deteriorated/ shrunk and the bearing/shaf is just wobbling about.
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JDM GTO TT, Emanage Blue - 450`s Hotwired Walbro - K&N - Blitz SSBC Port Methanol Injection - E85 - 12.4@115 |
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#96 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Get in there with a bar (wheels off the ground) and give it a good poke/ lever, any play will be obvious.
I strapped the rubber driveshaft mounts up, it`s deffinitely helped but there`s still a clunk. My engine mounts are poor and it`s possibly the engine/ tranny moving enough to cause a clunk under the car, got a set of poly mounts on the way so we`ll see if that helps. |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Ive had this same problem, although.
My clunking is CLEARLY comiing from the rear, in the low gears (1,2 sometimes 3) decel causes a clunk, some worse than other. Its usually bad in the lower RPMS of 1-2...It happens under torque also. I was thinking mine could be my u bolts on my driveshaft, as that is what it feels like. If I slam it in 3-4-5, it doesnt do it, but 1st and second it will do it. ALTHOUGh, it doesnt do it when shifting into these gears, only when you let off the throttle and hit it again. hmmm. ive gotten used to it, but it is quite annoying. but I'll probably end up replacing my driveshaft, later on.
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under the knife
Black 1993 3000GT VR4 Mods/Aftermarket: 3sx Downpipe,3 inch cat back with stock mufflers, IPS Y-pipe, HKS SSQV BOV, Hotwired Walbro 255 FP, HKS Type0 Turbo Timer, Lightweight MBC, magnecor 8.5mm plug wires, NGK BCP7ES coppers, 4 inch air filter, 3SX EGR block-offs, vac reduction, Rear Strut tower brace, Drilled and Slotted rotors, RS-R Down Springs,Black Corbeau TRS Seats, Corbeau 4 point Harnesses, 99 Rear Garnish, SPi boost guage, Blitz EGT guage. Installing:Full Engine Build:Ross forged pistons 1 size over, ARP main studs, Clevite Bearings, full mitsu 120k service, 99 lifters, IPS Solid motor mounts. SOON: 13T's, 550cc injectors, Apex'i NEO, AEM wideband, Defi Guages |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Getrag Wrestler
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Carrier Bearing Replacement There you go.
Well everyone, Im in the middle of this troubleshoot myself. I have some useful info that I think may disprove some of our suspicious theories concerning excessive play in the 3S drivetrain system. First some background information to compare: -Heavy clunking experienced during sudden accel and some during decel In most all gears. -Measured over .25" backlash at the companion flange -Clunking appeared to come from the rear. -Zip tied carrier bearings (helped symptoms some but not 100%) I pulled my diff to do backlash adjustment. Adjusted it to about .005" (Spec says .004-.006") Upon putting the driveshafts and t/f case on I checked backlash visually by rotating the propeller shaft. Same as before. At this point I figured something else must be wrong with the rear diff so I completely removed it only to find everything checks out ok again. My backlash must be inside the transmission. I know the OS is good and t/f case is fine. I wonder where the source is though... Just goes to show that if someone has symptoms like mine it could be any of the above in terms of what's causing it.
__________________
Hi my name's Nate and I've been addicted to boost for four years now...
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#100 (permalink) |
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Getrag Wrestler
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That was actually my next plan. I dont think the factory service manual accounts well for defining where the backlash can come from. Im going to re-assemble the rear diff and install it with the axles attached and measure backlash with the propeller flange disconnected. This should help isolate each side while also having decent load on each side as well.
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