1st gear and general notchiness...

[stevengines]

Occasionally I will get "blocked" going into 1st gear when at a stop - usually I can get it in by going 2-1.

Also when the car is moving I can't downshift into 1st without grinding unless I come to a complete stop.

I have checked the clutch adjustment per JacksTrans recommenedations...

Car doesn't move at a 7k rev in 1st with clutch in. It may have been a little off prior to my first adjustment but I didn't know the trick to check at the time.

I changed the oil for the evo 6 sp stuff approx 1k ago - the old oil had a lot metal. No big chunks... No noticeable difference with the fresh oil sadly. I know the car had a new 1-2 synchro placed about 5k ago. Is the metal normal for having recent work?

I'm guessing I'm still SOL and will have to get a quality rebuild...

Any thoughts on ways I might address the problem without a full rebuild...

Thanks!

P.S. My hope is that it's something simple like "i had the same problem and replaced my __blank__ car is perfect now" Like a clutch hydrolic cable or something...

[HLxDrummer]

Try double clutching before you go into first (clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev match to the RPM's you'll need for first, cluth in, first gear, clutch out).

Good luck!

[aberabee]

please do me a favor ... I have the exact same problem ;if you find out let me know what the deal is. I had my tranny taken apart and they said everything looked good. ...So maybe they are retarded but in any event let me knowif you find out.

[Dakken]

What weight oil are you using? One time I thought it was a good idea to use 95w-140 weight oil. That was a very bad idea. My tranny did exactly what you are describing. It would grind going into 1st and 2nd and did not start to shift smoothly until the tranny was warmed up after about 10 minutes of driving.

[94PearlwhiteTT]

First off all transmissions are going to shift harder and be a little notchy for the first few minutes of driving until you get it warmed up. If you do a search, a lot of people have been saying that the GM synchromesh is one of the better fluids for our trannys, although it is a bit expensive. I'm currently running 75w90 (recommended by manual) penzoil I believe and mine is a bit notchy, and always grinds going into first until warmed up. After it warms up it shifts find though. Do a search there's plenty on the topic. just my .02$

[stevengines]

I'm using the "mitsubishi daiqueen 75-85" It's the oil designed for the 6-sp EVO MR. Jack at JacksTransmissions recommends it for our cars.

It didn't seem to have any affect. I've maybe put 1-2k on the car since hoping for the best. I'm going to try the redline MTL/MT90 Mix just to see if it seems any better or different. I figure at worst I wasted a little cash on products and a little time. If this doesn't have any affect I'm going to send it to Kormex or Jacks...

[Patch]

I'm using the synchromesh... good stuff! I've had/still have that problem today. I replaced 1st & 2nd sychros and 2nd shift fork and that basically fixed the problem.. however ever once in a while when coming to a stop it won't go into 1st, but all I do is rev a bit and it slides in with ease.

[VR3.9]

Originally Posted by Patch

I'm using the synchromesh... good stuff! I've had/still have that problem today. I replaced 1st & 2nd sychros and 2nd shift fork and that basically fixed the problem.. however ever once in a while when coming to a stop it won't go into 1st, but all I do is rev a bit and it slides in with ease.

I'm no expert and put syncromesh in mine. Then I read this form Jacks Transmisison site.

Q: What kind of gear oil do you recommend?

A: For our DSM and 3S transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi 6-speed manual transmission gear oil from the 2005 Mitsubishi EVO MR. (Part number mz313376). This is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the tranny shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Please make sure you use the proper amount as specified in your owners manual (typically 2.4 Qts.) Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with this fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer, Redline Heavyweight Shockproof 50/50 mixed with Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil will also work just as well. For transfer cases and rear ends, use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ONLY. It is especially important to use only Redline Heavyweight Shockproof fluid or Mitsubishi dealer t-case fluid in EVO transfer cases. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty! THESE ARE THE ONLY FLUIDS WE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH. If you ask us "Will xyz fluid be okay?" we won't have an answer for you.

[frostyfx]

mine does the same thing and i would love to know which oil i'm actually supposed to use....

[galant101]

let alone where you put the fluid lol this may sound dumb but i really cant find where you put it.