How To: Disable your factory alarm

[Dave57]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

this is first gen... i think the wire is different on a second gen?

Look up your "alarm disable" wire on a electric manual.

cmon i put the disclamer


The only thing that "should" set off our factory alarms are when someone opens the hood/trunk/door when the alarm is armed.

Do you alarms go "armed"? then go off in the morning.

Thats wierd about the "morning" alarm... Hmm i wonder if its heat based, or light due to the "morning"...

this puts the alarm in "disable" mode and if everything is working correctly it should shut it off, but if someone had had another alarm installed... Or maybe cut that alarm disable wire...

To make sure I guess you would have to trace the alarm disable wire at the ecu? and make sure its grounded. Its like your ground(on your alarm disable wire) is not making it to where it needs to go.

I've seen the hood sensor problem a lot all you have to do is lean on it and it's out of adjustment. Simple fix bend it up.

[a_brooks86]

ok....well, either i'm a complete retard or there is something missing here. I did every step up to "remove the 2 plugs to etacs".....then the next step talks about isolating the larger plug and splicing into the light green wire in the corner........but there is no light green wire in the corner. There is only two light green wires period and they are both more toward the middle of each connector. what is the deal here? i went ahead and connected a ground wire to the only light green wire on the larger plug but nothing happened. am i missing something? is the wire maybe a different color than light green?

i'll explain my problem, just to let you in on why im trying this in the first place. well, the moron that owned my 1993 Dodge Stealth ES before me lost the remotes to it. So, the only way to start it up was to put the key in the ignition and press this little hidden button placed under the dash that's supposed to disable the alarm. well, it worked just fine for a few months, but now it takes forever just to make the button work....sometimes i have to mess with it for over 20 minutes....pressing the button, removing the key, puting the key back in, pressing the button again, etc. instead of finding a replacement for the button, i just figured i could disable the alarm permanently....so thats why im trying to follow these directions....

it's my daily driver so right now im stuck driving my wife's 1995 celica.....please help.....

[Dave57]

For now you could put a cheap toggle switch there. I'm just wondering what exactly the switch is doing. If the switch failed maybe it's in a high current starter circuit?? But follow the switch wires and see where they go.

[mikes2nd]

actually if its got an "intermittant" start problem.

you do want to get rid of that alarm bs... and you might have a 2nd gen harness?

Your car a late 93?

And 2nd i think its your ignition module behind the key.

Look at ignition fixes. Or click click start threads(look for my posts).

I fought this same problem... i would have to turn my key like 10 times sometimes and it would finally start. Ended up being my igntion module (the one behind the lock) it looks like a "grey" cap attached to the wires and harness. If you pull it out you can start your car without the keys

[Dave57]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

actually if its got an "intermittant" start problem.

you do want to get rid of that alarm bs... and you might have a 2nd gen harness?

Your car a late 93?

And 2nd i think its your ignition module behind the key.

Look at ignition fixes. Or click click start threads(look for my posts).

I fought this same problem... i would have to turn my key like 10 times sometimes and it would finally start. Ended up being my igntion module (the one behind the lock) it looks like a "grey" cap attached to the wires and harness. If you pull it out you can start your car without the keys

The ignition module would be the high current circuit and a reason for a push button switch. That should be fixed first before any alarm wire modifications. Since you said you have different color wires, you don't need to potentially mess up the alarm circuit until the car starts the way it should.

[StealthRT9405]

Since the factory alarm sucks and always go off and your disableing them, y not remove them? Is it so hard that its not worth it? I'd rather just take mine out all together.

[a_brooks86]

well, see...i'll explain what the button does. when i get into my car, i have to shut the door, put the key in the ignition and turn it to accessories, then press the button. at which point the doors automatically lock and then it allows me to start the car......but lately, after i go through the whole stupid process, nothing happens when i press the button. the fact that when the button actually works the doors lock themselves is how i narrowed it down to the button as the problem (at least i think). i'm pretty sure it's not an ignition problem since the "locking of the doors" thing doesn't even happen. also, the guy that i bought the car from even told me that since he lost the remotes, he had the button installed to disarm the alarm to where you can start it. i've never had the alarm go off or anything, this is the only sort of problem i've had with it. i just figured it would be alot easier to just take my dash apart and ground the alarm for good. then i would never have to mess with it again.....but it sure didn't turn out that way unfortunately

**well, im not sure how late in the year my 1993 is so i found the etacs wiring diagram for both the 91-93 stealths and the 94-96 stealths (bulldogsecurity.com). apparently the 91-93 has a light green alarm disarm wire, but the 94-96 alarm disarm wire is "GREEN/BLUE". i'll look over the wiring again either tonight or in the morning and let you guys know if i find a green/blue instead.**

(oh, and i just want to say thanks to all of you that are helping me with this....i would be totally lost without your advice )

[Dave57]

Sounds like an aftermarket alarm, the factory systems don't lock your doors.

[a_brooks86]

ok...so i tore into my car again today and i found some intersting stuff. there is a Mopar EVS module installed on my car. From what i understand, the EVS is installed by the dealer, not the manufacturer, right? Thats just a comment i found searching for EVS on google. Also, it would make sense if it was a different system than factory for a few different reasons. First off, it would explain why my car was able to lock the doors when the alarm disables and the key is in the ignition (since the factory alarm isn't supposed to do that). Also, it would explain why there is no light green or green/blue wire connected to the ETACS. And finally, it would explain why the EVS was half-ass installed....with alot of the wires zip-tied, tucked, and taped wherever they would fit....including the alarm's horn i found dangling from one screw behind the driver's side headlight, tucked under an a/c hose (and apparently someone cut the negative wire to the horn...hmmm, i wonder why! ). I found a pic of the EVS module and this other little EVS unit that was tucked behind the fuse box. The pic was actually used by someone on ebay to sell a few EVS parts, so I circled the ones that are identical to the ones in my car. The number off of the Mopar EVS module is 4636155. So please PLEASE someone tell me that they can help me. The best option would be to just completely remove the whole EVS system. I tried to figure that out while i was crammed under the driver-side dash but I got kinda lost when the wires started running in all different directions to things that I don't know anything about



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[Dave57]

Well alarms are installed in varying degrees (some installers don't connect all capable functions and the alarms do too much) that ads to extra loose wiring if they don’t tie it off well. They all interrupt and or tap connections in the factory harness to varying degrees. That is an interrupted wire is cut and a wire is spliced to each side so that doubles the amount of wires and can easily lead to a mess. A tap is self explanatory.

To remove the EVS one would have to figure out the interrupted wires and reconnect them. The interrupted wires are going to be the same color and be spliced to the alarms wires. A tap will have a t splice on it or be cut and have a wire nut on three wires.

Sounds like the car didn't have a factory alarm (missing ETACS wire) so It may now need an alarm that’s your decision. The new alarms instructions would also tell you what is what while connecting it.