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#11 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
__________________
'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
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#12 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Strange thing I noticed the other day. I was driving my car "hard" for ~ 30 min and then I had to stop at the store for a few minutes. My car has a turbo timer so it idled for 2 - 3 min before shutting off. When I came out of the store ~ 20 minutes later, my car started easily, but it was running on the lean side (16.8 - 17 ish) and for the first few seconds I could hear what I can only describes as sort of a whirring/rustling sound coming from the rear. The only explanation I can come up with is maybe the noise is caused by the depressurization of gas vapors when they are entering the tank via the return line. Anybody else noticed this or does anybody have a better explanation?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Back from the dead.
It has been very hot out over the past few weeks and I've come to the conclusion that my hot start problem is definitely _not_ cured. I've tried disconnecting the FP solenoid --> seems to be even worse. I've tried running the fuel pump using the check connector to get a rid of any possible source of vapor look and the prime the fuel lines before starting the car --> car starts right away but then it wants to run extremely lean for the first few minutes. If I try and rev it up I can't get it above 2600 rpm. I'm curious if the "lean" condition is caused by missing (ie. spark plug not firing), which is spilling O2 into the exhaust causing it to look lean? |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Noticed that my FP solenoid isn't doing what it is supposed to, ie. it isn't increasing FP to base (atmospheric) pressure. Been thinking about this problem for a bit and I realized this problem might stem from the fact I'm running a MAFTranslator feeding a fixed temp. and baro signal to the ECU?
The only thing is that this doesn't explain why people with a stock intake system also have this problem. Does anybody know which temp signal the ECU uses to determine hot start conditions? Is it the coolant temp signal or is it the air temp signal? |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Parting out = Extinction.
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Are you sure you don’t have dirty injectors. What can happen is the injectors stay open (due to dirt) after you shut the car off and this causes the cylinder(s) to load up with fuel. If you smell fuel after you start, that could be your problem. Try putting the pedal to the floor to see if it starts “somewhat easier”. You may want to try and put some Techron in the tank to clean the injectors.
Mako
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1969 Corvette Roadster 1966 Mustang Convertible 1997 3000GT Coming soon, 1996 Viper-GTS ![]() View Pictures @ http://www.drivehq.com/folder/p2483017.aspx (Use the Slideshow feature) |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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New User - Please be kind
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#19 (permalink) |
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Parting out = Extinction.
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In a flooded situation (like an injector(s) leaking into cylinder(s), putting the pedal to the medal until it starts clears a flooded engine faster due to more air getting into the cylinders and drying it out faster. Then you get a gas smell out the exhaust once started.
If this sounds like it’s it, Techron in the tank a few times. Mako |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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New User - Please be kind
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I see what you're saying, but what I mean is why would it be flooded only when warm. Is it just because when it's cold most of the fuel left over from the last time it was running has evaporated? |
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