![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Hile, gunslingers!
|
Dual gauge pod installed at the A-pillar.
Search keywords: dual gauge pod installation; gauge installation; A-pillar gauge pod; dual gauge installation at A pillar; A pillar gauge pod install; dual gauge pod; 2 1/16” gauge pod install; air fuel gauge install; digital gauge install; digital gauges install; 2 1/16 inch digital gauge install ================================================ I installed a dual gauge pod from Auto Meter Gauge Works this weekend. The following is a brief write up and links to some helpful web pages I used. Thanks to Jeff Lucius and his incredibly thorough website: www.stealth316.com If you don’t have this website bookmarked, go do it right now. The dual gauge pod comes with simple instructions which include: 1. Fit the pod to you’re A-pillar and mark the location. You may sand the pod edges for perfect fit. Mark your desired location with a pencil. 2. Remove the A-pillar. (See link below) 3. Drill or cut a hole in the A-pillar for your wiring. I started with a ¼” drill bit and finished off with a ½” wood drill. 4. Hold the pod in position and drill a 3/16” hole(s) through 4 corners of the pod and A-pillar. Install your gauges, run your wiring through the hole you cut in the A-pillar and use the supplied ratchet fasteners to mount the pod to the A-pillar. The ratchet fasteners are plastic, ribbed screws that you simply push into the holes to attach the pod to the A-pillar. I assume they could be pried out with a small screwdriver should you ever need to uninstall the pod or change out your gauges. 5. Feed your wiring down into the dash (easy access when the A-pillar is removed) and install the A-pillar. Tip: Leave enough slack in your wiring behind each gauge so you can easily remove them and replace if necessary. The following links from www.stealth316.com may be helpful: A-pillar Remove and Install: www.stealth316.com/2-a-pillar-cover.htm Wiring Tips: www.stealth316.com/2-wiring-tips.htm A/F Meter Install: www.stealth316.com/2-arm1instal.htm ECM connector configurations: www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htm -golfpro
__________________
The current fleet:
'97 3000GT SL, red (hers) '02 Honda S2000, silver (his) '98 Saturn SL, white (winter beater) '93 Ford Ranger, red (203,000 miles and still ticking) ![]() The 3000GT & Stealth Audio FAQ Thanks to Keith Upton for permission to use one of his excellent photographs in my avatar. For some of the best photogaphy on this website, car or otherwise, search "Mobo" in the A/V Forum. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Verified Seller
|
Nice writeup. Couple of suggestions if I can.
1: No need to cut a hole in the A-pillar as all the wires can be snuck thru the opening at the bottom, just use a coat hanger. 2: Get a pair of black A-pillars as they make it look so much better. I posta pic tomorrow. 3: No need to use those plastic screws as doube-sided tape works real well, this way if you ever remove the pod for whatever reason there won't be any holes in your a-pillar. Oh and awesome website for the audio stuff, learned alot there. I used that adapter for my new head unit to attach it to the factory amp, worked perfect. Hey I got the rest of that saying from your sig on my wall at work, haha...small world.
__________________
----------------[2007 Ride of the Year
![]() ![]() "Stroke" her I did. Retired - TD04 WRX19t's = 513awhp @ 18psi on PUMP ![]() |
|
|
|