I have done, redone, and done again the timing belt probably a dozen times now. Maybe more. It's starting to get really annoying. A slack spot keeps developing and the crank seems to be about half a tooth off from the cams no matter what I try. I'm going to tear it ALLL back out, do a water pump, and then do the timing belt again starting from scratch.
I have a spanner wrench for the harmonic balancer. Does anyone here have the cam lockers and/or the pulley tensioning tool that I can borrow? I'll drive to your house to pick them up and then I'll drive them back when I'm done.
It would be REALLY appreciated and hopefully with the right tools and the extra edge of the cam lockers I'll get it right the first time.
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1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo rebuild in progress...
I have done, redone, and done again the timing belt probably a dozen times now. Maybe more. It's starting to get really annoying. A slack spot keeps developing and the crank seems to be about half a tooth off from the cams no matter what I try. I'm going to tear it ALLL back out, do a water pump, and then do the timing belt again starting from scratch.
I have a spanner wrench for the harmonic balancer. Does anyone here have the cam lockers and/or the pulley tensioning tool that I can borrow? I'll drive to your house to pick them up and then I'll drive them back when I'm done.
It would be REALLY appreciated and hopefully with the right tools and the extra edge of the cam lockers I'll get it right the first time.
Maybe your hydrolic tensioner is bad? Maybe you aren't torquing the tensioner pulley correctly.
I have the tools but I often have to tell people on short notice when I can do work based on my schedule so I can't lend mine out in case I am doing a 60K.
All i can say is a lot of binder clips on the cam pulleys. start from the front bank work your way to the rear and then down. make sure when you go to put it on the crank cog you turn the crank cog back like 2 degrees to grab the right tooth and then put some tension on it with the tensioner before turning the cog back forward to take up slack on idler side.
Yeah, what I do is I set the front 2 cams lined up, then around the water pump, then for the rear bank back a tooth and pull it foward to tighten the belt slack and line up the marks perfectly. Then same thing for the crank cog. I figure maybe if I can get something to hold at least the front cams in place it would make life a LOT easier because those are always flipping around on me.
Also I just noticed a few hours ago it seems like the backside of my timing belt is burning? Maybe I should buy a new kit and try again.
[snip] Does anyone here have the cam lockers and/or the pulley tensioning tool that I can borrow? I'll drive to your house to pick them up and then I'll drive them back when I'm done.
It would be REALLY appreciated and hopefully with the right tools and the extra edge of the cam lockers I'll get it right the first time.
Where are you; Geography? Suggest you consider updating profile info for location so folks can see and weigh in to help w/tools. Just a thought !
If the belt is stretching from bad pulleys that would be bad. But use medium sized binder clips to hold the belt. thats all you need. 4-6 of them work fine. 4 is good the extra 2 would be just for a little extra security.
Well, I don't know. I contacted the company that i got my timing kit from, complained that it was all trash, and they replied saying they'd mail out a new kit. Suprised. Talk about customer service. Hopefully it was just a fluke that something was bad from the first kit. I also have a water pump I can install now, so I figure what I'll do is go back and do everything all over again. Take it all off, clean up, and install the new stuff. Nice, clean, right the first time now that I know how to do it.
To tension the pulley so far I've been using two drill bits to go in the holes then snapped a pair of vice grips on the bits and turned to torque accordingly. I'd like to use the proper tool if I can, but I guess this way works too.
Just tight enough so the hydrolic tensioner pin slides freely, right?
Well, I don't know. I contacted the company that i got my timing kit from, complained that it was all trash, and they replied saying they'd mail out a new kit. Suprised. Talk about customer service. Hopefully it was just a fluke that something was bad from the first kit. I also have a water pump I can install now, so I figure what I'll do is go back and do everything all over again. Take it all off, clean up, and install the new stuff. Nice, clean, right the first time now that I know how to do it.
To tension the pulley so far I've been using two drill bits to go in the holes then snapped a pair of vice grips on the bits and turned to torque accordingly. I'd like to use the proper tool if I can, but I guess this way works too.
Just tight enough so the hydrolic tensioner pin slides freely, right?
exactly. once you torque the pulley down it should still move freely.
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