if you have a greddy boost controller using the greddy map sensor, is it possible/ok to tap those wires and run it to the emanage? i know the map sensors just output a voltage number, but i don't want to cause any sort of signal loss between the ebc and emanage. just trying to see if i can run a single map sensor for my ebc and emanage.
nope. won't work. too much current draw for the signal. I tried it with the Greddy boost gauge and the EMU. screwed up the readings. Had to run both MAP sensors.
nope. won't work. too much current draw for the signal. I tried it with the Greddy boost gauge and the EMU. screwed up the readings. Had to run both MAP sensors.
i tried speed density today and had some trouble i think you mention this on the first page about injector drop off at full throttle... for some reason at full throttle it would knock and feel like fuel cut.. i checked my log and at one point my injector duty cycle went to zero... maybe its my stage 3....i went back to my old map for no as this started to scare me with the high levels of knock...
Im using the boomslang harness at stage 3.. how do i wire down to stage 2.5maybe this will help....
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Tdo5 headers, evo III 16g's, manual boost controller, denso full pump hotwired, egr delete, soild motor mounts, 680 injects,godspeed front mount intercooler 24x12x4 with ppe piping. aeromotive Fuel pressure regulater, sx fuel filter steel braided lines,cf drive shaft greddy ultimate,lc-1 wideband AC delete, cruise control delete, abs delete, custom battery drop, godspeed radiator,bomz racing seats, ..I think thats all
Switching to stage 2.5 won't make any improvements for SirLaughaloTT. His 100% IDC problem is at the output level and the fuel pump needs to deliver more fuel; either going with a dual pumps, or bump the voltage up on the pump.
Switching to stage 2.5 won't make any improvements for SirLaughaloTT. His 100% IDC problem is at the output level and the fuel pump needs to deliver more fuel; either going with a dual pumps, or bump the voltage up on the pump.
well i hit 100% idc all day with out speed density but when Im in speed density mode it cuts fuel at like 15 psi no where near 100% idc.. thats why i figured it was the stage 3 wiring....
On the screen were it asked for the injector size and their lag time is it more important to use the correct value or the one that gives the best A/F at idle? When I use .2 for 360cc I get near 14.7 at idle, if I use .72-.80 it stays at 12.5 A/F. Will the lower value cause problems? I am getting low load/low rpm knock because it runs lean but I am slowly tuning it out by adding up 8% fuel.
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Mod List: EVO3 16Gs , Forged Crankshaft, 4 Bolt Block, IPS 11lb flywheel, Hard pipe Kit, Borla Exhaust, Space Holder, LightWeights Alcohol Kit,Upgraded Lifters, Megan Racing Down Pipe, Walbro Fuel Pump,Greddy Type-S BOV, AEM Fuel Preasure Regulator, AEM ECU, Blitz SBC-id, Blitz Power Meter, Intrax Springs, Blitz FATT, MSD DIS-4,RC 550cc Injectors, Maximal solid motor mounts, Short Throw Shifter, Stillen Metal Matrix brake pads (front and back)., Vacuum line reduction and EGR removal, 10mm plug wires,denso irdidium ik27 plugs,Scan Master3
On my RC550 injectors I used normal lag numbers of around 0.70 and then richen idle/low engine load areas by around 10%. No idea why idle / low engine load requires this.
Hey guys, Im having problems with emanage. I have been messing with this thing for well over a year. I have never got it working right. The car is absolute shit and I am beyond frustrated with it. I might just smash this shit rather than sell it so as to not burden anyone else cuase I think it is cursed.
I have decided to start over completely and follow the instructions on this thread.
I wired the car up for stage 2. I am certain that the wires are all correct. Ive double tripple checked them. I have stock injectors installed and I have the stock maf and piping on. Unfortunately all i have is a shitty open atmosphere bov.
I also wired the emu for monitoring knock and set the software up as per instructions on p1. of this thread but it doesnt work when I tap the block, go figure.
Lets assume my wires are correct. I then downloaded the most recent emu version, selected my engine type, picked my front pannel accessories (a/f & greddy map sensor), and set up the knock settings. Then I saved the file, sent it to the emu and started the car. Car will run and drive but it goes really rich under wot and after a pull it will stay rich in all rpm and load ranges for a long time and will die at idle. Car should theoretically be running just off the stock computer right? EMU should be invisible. What do you think is my problem. Do i need to open maps and activate them or mess with dip switches or what? Do you need a map with all 0's inorder for it to work?
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