-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[Fred 62]

my 2C system with a 0.8mm nozzle on the Y pipe:

i use the subI/J map in order to control the flow !
i tested the system with water and i need to tune the car with methanol now !











@+
fred

[ganesht]

Thanks Fred!!

Fred: could you send me a copy of your map? what other mods do you have?

[SirLaughaloTT]

man i can't get my greddy map sensor to stop reading wacky the psi goes up and down up and down under full trottle... any body got some pics of how and where they have theres hooked up....this is fustrating...

[stealthII]

Ok, Tuning this thing is pissing me off. I can't even get the car to idle correctly. As mentioned above, I'm using SD on 360CC injectors while using Gray Hazes 360 base map. The car idles very lean when I first start it up. After warming up to around 180*, it starts to do some idle surge. On my wideband, it reads very lean ~17 AFR. When I try to add some fuel on the Airflow output map, I can eventually get it to idle correctly around 14.7 AFR. As soon as I rev the car and comes back down to idle, the AFR dances all over the place and can either go real lean, or really rich. It doesn't make any sense. Anyone else having this issue?

[BlackStealth]

Here's my modified 360cc speed density map based on Gray Haze's work. Only tested to 6psi at the moment.

Assuming you're setup for stage 3 wiring, you must input correct injector lag times if you expect good idle results from cold to hot coolant ranges. I'm using 0.80 for stock and 0.55 for RC injectors.

Any mistakes in the speed density map, you'll have extreme lean or extreme rich conditions.

I hope you're using the acceleration map otherwise you'll always have a lean throttle tip in.

[stealthII]

Thanks once again for the help! I am actually currently using Stage II and only have airflow and timing setup. I know we kinda discussed this before, but how are other people (i.e. Trevor) tuning without going stage III? Obviously they are OBDII and heard that they only used StageII wiring, but does that make a difference in the tuning process?

[Gray Haze]

Originally Posted by stealthII

Thanks once again for the help! I am actually currently using Stage II and only have airflow and timing setup. I know we kinda discussed this before, but how are other people (i.e. Trevor) tuning without going stage III? Obviously they are OBDII and heard that they only used StageII wiring, but does that make a difference in the tuning process?

Go stage 3.

Hook up a WB02 to the EMU.

Turn on I/J map. Set target A/F to where you want it.

Use I/J to add/subtract fuel.

The 360CC base map isn't really for 360s. Its just what the ECU wants to see as if it had 360s.

I highly doubt the map would run worth a crap without I/J adjustment.

It doesn't follow what the car would want to see normally, its just a guess in airflow % via pressure, RPM, 3L, & VE mapping.

Newest 2.16 map I did is actually smoothed all the way across to give steady changes in IDC to help control injectors a little bit smoother.

Like i said, go stage 3, use WB02 to adjust the I/J map, leave narrow bands unplugged.

Find an afr map that resembles stock, get it adjusted where it needs to be adjusted post ECU, then plug nb02s back in, disable target a/f except above 11 PSI.

Done.

BTW, idle surging? Its either between 2 cells and one is rich, the other is lean. OR you have a bad vac leak.

[BlackStealth]

One thing I forget to mention all the time is to use map trace (4 cell mode) to making tuning easier. This highlights cells in your map that are currently in use. If you look closely one of the four cells will be identified slightly differently, and that particular cell is mostly responsible for your tune.

[stealthII]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm just going to do the stage III wiring and go that route. It sounds like there's options in there that I currently don't have and need (i.e. acceleration map, I/J Adjustment). I'm sure I'll be asking for more help as I get these options hooked up.

[sleeper3000]

well i tried to get a complete stock tune of a 91 vr-4 for everyone to get an idea of what a real stock vr-4 demands. but like always as soon as i hook up the emange. right at idle its running rich and as soon as i start to build boost it starts to get lean and when letting off the throttle it back fires from being way to lean. and also just in neutral and just revving it. it starts off rich and smelling like a lawn mower. then as soon as i touch the gas pedal it will go straight to 10.xx on my a/f meter.

with the stock ecu only with out the emanage hooked up it runs fine,idles fine,revs and drives just fine.

its only when the emanage is hooked up.

the boomslang harness i have i re-wired it.

none of the output channels where hooked up.(cuz i wanted to just get a stock data log)
the ignition channels and injector channels i just wired them straight across on the harness so they when right into the stock ecu (no output channels hooked up)
also set all the jumpers right to just add only. so it shouldnt have messed up trying to change anything and shouldnt have messed up just cuz i didnt have the map activated in the emanage.

the only map that was active was the airflow adjustment map. because that one is a must, without it activated the car threw a code saying my mass airflow meter wasnt hooked up. (boomslang wired for stage 1)


and i've tried stage 3 when i first got the boomslang harness and same problems. rich down low and lean up top except for that when i was stage 3. if i got near 1 psi on boost the car would bog down and back fire bad to where it actually made the car slow down. no matter if i gave it more throttle or not. couldnt go over 3000rpm either.

with the way i have it wired up. (just to data log)
i can drive it around and boost up to 10psi just fine. but its on the lean side. 14.3 a/f ratio. and just at idle its around 13.xx and like i said before. driving and then just backing off the throttle it will back fire and lean to far out.

so unless i could pay someone to hook it up right and tune it for me. like lean it out a bit at the top end and get rid of the low end knock like right when i just push the throttle. i think i'm gonna stop messing with it because i just put the new factory block and new heads,valve,spring,seals,pumps,injectors,sensors and so on. only about 300miles. i dont wanna fuck it up by running around lean or rich all day.

sorry i couldnt get a complete stock data log of everything with the emanage. i do how ever got some stock data log runs with the hand held halo data logger if anyone wants them.