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#41 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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TrAb: I see two serious problems. 1. Your pressure sensor readings are wildly fluctuating 2.3 psi. Trevor had the same issue and fixed this, I think he discussed this in the main emanage thread. 2. Your wideband A/F also have the same problem, fluctuating wildly. This may go away after you fix the first problem -- if not refer back the main thread where I made a suggestion to another user to use a capacitor to filter out unwanted noise caused by the antenna effect. Not sure how much of an impact this has on your tune, but the ECU may be perplexed with these unexpected airflow flucuations.
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#43 (permalink) |
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just some guy.
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TrAB: I am pretty srue i sent you an e-mail link the day after I tuned your car with info that i ran across on the capacitor, Check your e-mail in-box around that time.
EDIT:: correction, link was sent to your PM box. I just checked. When I tuned the car, the knock went "significantly" up when I brought the timing closer to normal in the upper rpm range (which is why it is so extreme.......had to be to avoid 12+ counts of knock) . It may be doing something different now, but that would be wierd. cleaning up the wideband signal should help to bring some light on the subject.
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![]() Pretty good for 2 shot turbos and a boost leak ![]() |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Bastard Coated Bastard
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I have a quick question on the wideband here. When selecting it in option 1 as A/F meter, what should the type be? I tried a few, and it seems like the SARD is just about right. Is this what it should be? Thanks
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#46 (permalink) | |
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Tuning 101
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For an AEM WB it should be no brand or other and 10.00 and 20.00 I believe.
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#48 (permalink) |
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F#&K Race Gas.
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just put the pressure sensor directly into the plenum....
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1992 3000GT VR-4 #15 of 24. The ORIGINAL Sandstone Gray '99 Conversion. ![]() Blown, Stroked, Bottled. And what? www.3stech.org - Now with 100% less invite codes! Free Registration! |
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#49 (permalink) |
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"The Fisherman"
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So the A/F target map shouldn't be used at all? I would think with a brand new calibrated WB sensor and an engine that hasn't been broken in, it would be the safest bet to get a tune (using the A/F map) while datalogging and then tune the car without the A/F target map based on your datalogging results.
I'm pretty much using stage 3 wiring with everything needed to use the A/F target map from scratch with a brand new (not even broken in) 9:1 CR motor, new cam specs, new P&P'ed heads, TurboBob modified ECU, 880cc's, pretty much everything you could think of and then put a GT42 on top of it Now if anyone has a better idea of how to begin to break-in and tune my car, I'm all ears.
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