![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#411 (permalink) | |
|
Verified Seller
|
Quote:
Hit file "save as" to save your map. |
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#412 (permalink) |
|
sleeper
|
here is the map. it doesnt have any changes to the charts.. but you can see the settings i have on it..
but i dont see why just installing the tuner would make the car run weird.. like it runs fine at idle when warm.. but when its cold it like to stutter... and once warm it idles fine... but when you drive it runs rich to a solid 10.. and when you let off the gas it stalls the engine out.. to where i gotta put it in netrual and push the clutch back in and start it while going like 40mph.. kinda scary if i went around a turn and that happened. and with the stock ecu the car had alot of power.. yet just by installing the tuner.. i lost alot of power.. it feels like its a non turbo pretty much.. cuz even when the boost kicks in.. there is no pull anymore. and the gauge is just a solid 10 still.. here are the data logs from the greddy and the .emu file from the greddy.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#413 (permalink) |
|
sleeper
|
this is the link to my server to download the data logs i have and the .emu map file.
http://68.55.253.10:16000/data%20logs/ |
|
|
|
|
|
#415 (permalink) |
|
sleeper
|
version E ... i bought it from www.mohdparts.com and they say its version E..
its the one that has the ignition chip moved and some other stuff.. and i didnt move jumper 21.. why do i have to move jumper 21? i did the rest.. just didnt do jumper 21.. and also .. after moving jumper 21.. if i just went to speed density do you think everything would run better? i have your map for stock 360cc injectors.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#416 (permalink) |
|
Verified Seller
|
According to the emanage forums, jumper 21 works in the same way as JP18.
I wouldn't jump into speed density just yet until you can get your car working smoothly first. Also what's the range of your wideband AFR? In your emanage map it's configured for 10 through 19 AFR. If this doesn't match your wideband 0-5 volt settings, then you'll get incorrect AFR readings. |
|
|
|
|
|
#417 (permalink) | |
|
sleeper
|
Quote:
when i used 10 - 20 it was 1.0 a/f higher then what it showed on the digital read out. and the reason why i would want to go to speed density is cuz i remember reading earlier in the fourms that you had some problems with getting the car to run right.. and it sounds like it got alot better once you went to speed density.. i can see how it would be alot easier to just tune with a psi load. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#418 (permalink) |
|
Verified Seller
|
Which brand wideband o2 controller are you using? Cuz if it's Innovative LC1, I think the ranges are 7.35 to 22.39.
Speed density and or Airflow HZ is a better load indicator than throttle position percentages when it comes to tuning. But since you're trying to install the EMU transparently, which load indicator is better is not really important at this stage of the game. I noticed you have manually set your TPS settings in the EMU map. Have you tried setting it up normally yet? ie. With the car off, turn the ignition on and connect to EMU and configure the throttle without using a manual override. If you can't get this part working correctly, you may have some sort of wiring issues. |
|
|
|
|
|
#419 (permalink) |
|
sleeper
|
wideband is aem uego single... not dual.. and i had to place it on the down pipe where the two pipes combind together to make 3inch exhaust... i got the stillen down pipe. where its 2.5 each pipe and combinds to make 3 inch.
yes i tried to let it config the throttle by its self with the car off and ecu on. when i do it that way it says .66 v 100% .66v min .67v max and another thing i've noticed is that on one of the data logs.. my timing went from 28 all the way to -198 but the car was still running just fine.. and no knock.. so i'm guessing that some of the wires may not be good or wired up right... i'm thinking i'm gonna have to cut off the boomslang harness part and just use the wire harness from the greddy tuner and just solder all the wires in myself.. starting at stage 1 and moving up to stage 2.5.. cuz just by plugging the tuner in it starts up like crap when cold.. and idles rich.. and just driving it runs rich. and then when boost kicks in.. its really rich.. but then again... the car runs to rich with the stock ecu... and it's probably a bad tps.. but i'm not sure... with the stock ecu the back of the car turns black in about 2 hours of driving.. and i used the hand held halo to check for any codes and hasnt thrown any codes so the o2 sensors are fine.. since i thought it might just be a bad o2 sensor but thats not it. and i'm guessing since it wont config the throttle right. maybe its a bad tps. or just the boomslang not wired right.. but i dont see why they would switch those wires with anything. since the car is my daily driver i've put the car back to the stock ecu controlls since i dont wanna drive the car around being so rich. so maybe next weekend i'll try moving jumper 21 since i havnt done that yet. and see if that changes anything... you were talking about you read about jumper 21 on the greddy fourms. can i have the link to that so i can read up on everything. is it public or do you need to register and stuff. thanks for your help. mark |
|
|
|
|
|
#420 (permalink) |
|
Verified Seller
|
You do realize you have to push the throttle all the way the floor for greddy EMU software to recognize what 100% throttle voltage looks like. It doesn't do anything automatic, it needs your help too.
If setting up the TPS is still a problem, I'd look into the boomslang harness wiring on the TPS wire and see where it goes. Maybe a defective TPS? The forum I was talking about is "www.emanageforums.com". |
|
|
|