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#401 (permalink) |
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sleeper
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the tuning method i'm trying to go for is stock maf and stock injectors for now..
and i had problems with the tuner before... as soon as i hooked it up.. when i started to build boost up to 1psi and the rpms would reach like 3 grand.. it would start to miss fire bad and would slow the car down.. it was running way to rich... and i gave up on the tuner... and now i tried it again.. but this time with the update 2.13 and it works fine... i wired the boomslang to 2.5 and i can get data log runs now.. my only problem is that at part throttle and wot the a/f ratio is a solid 10.00 and doesnt change at all.. and thats only at like 5psi.. and i can tell something is wrong cuz with the stock ecu controlling the car it runs good and fast.. but with the tuner on it runs good but slow... and i'm guessing its because of it being so rich the whole time... and may be causing some knock. also may be retarding the timing.. so since i'm only at stage 2.5 how would i go about leaning out the mixture? to about 11 a/f at the top end and wot.. can i just mess with the higher rpm cells in the air flow chart? like put in -x.xx in the cells to trick the ecm to think less air is going in there then there really is.. and just add more fuel by the inj maps.. since all i can do is add and not so much as subtract fuel with the injectors.. and is everyone barometer stuck at 1.00bar? and my tps says 100% all the time... does that mean my maf is broken and the tps? i'm sorry but i read in the beging and the tuning methods are pretty much for upgrading injectors or going speed density.. or using other features for stage 3.. i'm just trying to get the most power out of what i got at stage 2.5 and i'm trying to lean out the a/f to around 11 instead of a solid 10 when i reach like 3-5 psi... even when i max it out to 14 psi the a/f is still a solid 10 any help or suggestions thanks mark i'll post the data log run i got with the tuner after this post.. i gotta get it off the laptop.. |
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#402 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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If you ECU sees 100% TPS all the time - that's where you get your 10 AFR at part throttle... get that sorted first and go from there.
Also where do you get a baro reading from? EMU doesn't have such option... are you saying your Greddy MAP is at 1 bar all the time? Ohhh... ![]()
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#403 (permalink) |
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sleeper
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with the greddy ultimate i can see the tps and it says 100% all the time.. dunno why...
and to see the barometer it says 1.00bar with the hand held halo data logger. and also with the hand held halo data logger it says my tps is at 100% but having both of these things bad to where they are really high would probably make the car run rich.. cuz the back of the car is always covered in black shit.. and my gas mileage is like 8 or 9 miles a gallon.. here are two data log runs using the greddy tuner this one is the one showing that it runs rich at low boost and stays like that the whole time even when boost is still going up to 14 psi.. http://68.55.253.10:16000/running%20...ow%20boost.lg2 this one is a data log of everything http://68.55.253.10:16000/data%20log%20everything.lg2 |
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#404 (permalink) |
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sleeper
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ok i dunno why but when i look at the data logs on the laptop they show the tps at 100% all the time and then when i look at the logs on my desktop they show the tps working just fine.. but as to why the a/f goes really rich at part throttle and at wot i have no idea.. but i lost alot of power just by putting the tuner on the car... it pretty much feels and smells like its drowning its self in fuel.. and i can see it on the back of the car.. so i guess what i'm looking for is to mess with the air flow hz chart and put some -x.xx into the cells to trick the ecu into thinking less air is going in so it will dump less fuel.. so in other words it thinks less air is going in then what really is so it dumps less fuel so it should lean it out some right? but also in doing that isnt my timing and everything else gonna be lower then what it was stock? so should it just be the same?
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#405 (permalink) |
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sleeper
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also with the data logs you have to set the a/f sensor as option 1 and its other and 10 - 19 on the scale..
and the knock sensor i used greddy to see it.. its kinda jumpy and doesnt do knock sum like the hand held data logger i got.. but the setting to see it on the greddy are (intake temp/knock and its reson and feq is 11.78... i tried using 11.38 but the exhaust is way to loud and it gets picked up from the sensor just from idle.. |
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#407 (permalink) |
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sleeper
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with the car on.. it said v.66 ----- 100%
and then in the lower boxs it said . min--.66 max-- .67 and its set to normal.. so does that mean my sensor is bad? and thats why my car runs rich and i get shitty gas mileage? lol |
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#408 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Don't know why it's not calibrated automatically... Check both "manual" boxes and set the values to something like: min - 0.49 v max - 4.68 v Should work. |
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#409 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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sleeper3000: Attach your EMU map too. And as valmes already mentioned, your TPS is not configured properly in the EMU software, this is something everyone needs to do when they setup their EMU.
Also reading from your other threads, you're wired for stage 2.5 so this means the 100% IDC problem is not applicable. Last edited by BlackStealth : 12-22-2007 at 08:12 AM. |
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#410 (permalink) | |
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sleeper
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damn.. ok.. and with the greddy tuner.. how do i save the emu maps.. so i can show them? |
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