-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[BlackStealth]

On my first attempt using Gray Haze's tuning method+ AF Target map on, I was surprised how little street tuning time it required. I only had to make one adjustment in his airflow output map (probably typo) at idle, and my idle and part throttle tuning was pretty much perfect and done. WOT tuning doesn't take long, I just incremented boost in steps and verified everything was all good. When I finally discovered at what HZ level my 100% IDC occurred, I used a smaller HZ value and made this my maximum HZ level inside the airflow output map to prevent 100% IDC problem from ever occurring. Increment the boost slowly and watch the AF target map modify the I/J map for you. Couldn't get any easier than this, stock timing retained, stock fuel pressure solenoid can be kept for those warm starts, correct amounts of fuel is squirted during cranking for fast startup. And when you're finally looking to get as much HP out of pump gas then open up your timing map and pay attention to your knock readings and do micro-tuning.

I forgot to add that I also noticed on cold engine starts, my AF isn't excessively rich (where it's overly rich when you modify airflow signal).

[2root4u]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

On my first attempt using Gray Haze's tuning method+ AF Target map on, I was surprised how little street tuning time it required. I only had to make one adjustment in his airflow output map (probably typo) at idle, and my idle and part throttle tuning was pretty much perfect and done. WOT tuning doesn't take long, I just incremented boost in steps and verified everything was all good. When I finally discovered at what HZ level my 100% IDC occurred, I used a smaller HZ value and made this my maximum HZ level inside the airflow output map to prevent 100% IDC problem from ever occurring. Increment the boost slowly and watch the AF target map modify the I/J map for you. Couldn't get any easier than this, stock timing retained, stock fuel pressure solenoid can be kept for those warm starts, correct amounts of fuel is squirted during cranking for fast startup. And when you're finally looking to get as much HP out of pump gas then open up your timing map and pay attention to your knock readings and do micro-tuning.

I forgot to add that I also noticed on cold engine starts, my AF isn't excessively rich (where it's overly rich when you modify airflow signal).

What's your methodology for filling in i/j field beyond the hz clamp? Just put in big numbers and let the AF tuning bring it down? What values do you use for the AF tuning? I was using the AF tuning a while back with mixed results. I think it varies a lot on those AF tuning values.

[BlackStealth]

I left the I/J field blank and let the AF target map take care of it initially because it's already rich to begin with. The factory AF tune is around 10.x and I tell the AF target map to tune for 11.0 for that transition. Later on after I'm satisfied I can bump it up to 11.5 AFR or manual tune it myself.

On my car when I let up on the throttle, I always get a rich spike momentarily (probably because the FPR couldn't regulate fast enough). This rich spike is essentially bad data that needs to be ignored by the AF target map. The best way to do this is to increase the throttle position percentage to a high value, and increase the feedback cycle rate so the I/J map changes slowly.

When making a new map from scratch, I'll temporarily lower the throttle position percentage to a low value, and lower the feedback cycle rate just to speed things up. And manually adjust the I/J map cell if it was affected by bad data.

Now only if we could somehow tell the AF Target map to ignore the bad AFR values just temporarily for so many milliseconds it would make the AF Target map a million times better.

[2root4u]

So you use standard values (-xx%) in the I/J fields associated with normal hz values to scale down the injectors, and leave the I/J fields associated with clamped hz values blank? This would be rich just because it's not scaling the injectors from the 360cc pulses correct?

What about values for Feedback Cycle and Feedback Amount? Any recommendations there?

[BlackStealth]

I use the I/J before and after injector scaling along with lag times to do bulk of the correction so this leaves the I/J map blank.

If you're paranoid about it going accidentally lean with the fixed HZ signal, you can add a couple positive percentage points in the I/J map and allow the AF target map to subtract the excess away.

Feedback cycle I keep at 300ms and Feedback amount at 0.5%. If you think your tune is really off, you can increase the feedback amount to a higher value initially, but eventually you're gonna want this to be at 0.5% again. This basically describes how much correction will be applied at every step until it reaches the target. It may never reach the target if it's too large of a value.

[stealthystu]

Originally Posted by stealthystu

I'm thinking about switching from the Maft-Pro to EMU. I have a couple of questions about it. I have a 91 TT with evo 16g's and 680 cc injectors. I'm right now running speed density on the Maft Pro, so I would plan on continuing that.

1) How does it log when there's no laptop in the car? Is there just a push button to start and end the capturing phase?

2) Does it log knock for a first gen?

3) Are there any issues with the tune for warm start ups? If the engine is warm, does it have a hard time starting, or does it work no problem?

4) Have you ever run into an issue where your tune seems to go everywhere and you don't have your laptop? Is it really consistent, even during weather changes?

5) What features does it have that are really nice and work flawlessly?

6) Do I need anything else if I get the EMU, assuming my IAT and MAP sensors work with it?

Thanks guys

Still very interested in the EMU. Anyone?

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by stealthystu

1) How does it log when there's no laptop in the car? Is there just a push button to start and end the capturing phase?

2) Does it log knock for a first gen?

3) Are there any issues with the tune for warm start ups? If the engine is warm, does it have a hard time starting, or does it work no problem?

4) Have you ever run into an issue where your tune seems to go everywhere and you don't have your laptop? Is it really consistent, even during weather changes?

5) What features does it have that are really nice and work flawlessly?

6) Do I need anything else if I get the EMU, assuming my IAT and MAP sensors work with it?

Thanks guys

1. You can use the internal datalogger, just be sure to use the newer firmware so you can capture useful stuff like wideband o2 AFR, boost, rpms, knock, etc.
2. Yes, but it's never as good as knocksum.
3. I don't experience any problems starting up when warm, but if you use gray haze's tuning method, you'll have stock like starts everytime.
4. I believe even a stock car tune will fluctuate too, but if you want stock like behavior follow gray haze's tuning method. This way you can retain your fuel pressure solenoid, good starts, etc. Using a gutted stock MAF with factory IAT will get you closer to that.
5. The best feature is the ability to modify your fuel corrections after the stock ECU, so the stock ECU doesn't do anything weird, like run a little more rich on a cold engine, etc.
6. Your MAP sensor won't work unless you like to hack things. Not worth the headache just to save a few bucks. You can re-use the same IAT if you like, but I prefer using the stock IAT instead.

[sleeper3000]

ok i got a question.. i got the tuner and hand held data logger to work on my car now...

when i hit 1.00bar i hit fuel cut..

and a way to fix this is to cut back on the air flow chart with the greddy right? if so what would i put in the charts? -0.5 or 0.5? like i'm guessing when you put a -x.xx it will take away the signal and if you put a postive it will add to the signal..

pretty much i'm trying to boost up to 1.00bar and for some reason when the car hits .90 it does fuel cut.. i know its not spark blow-out.. i changed the plugs and wires... plugs gapped to .32 and wires 8.5 msd....

so in other words what all would i have to change with the greddy tuner to make it boost up to or past 1.00bar?

i saw in the tuner there is a boost-cut limit setting and mine are all set to 3000hz accross the board and i'm guessing thats the stock setting..

also i have the 255lph fuel pump and hotwire. and i tested the regulator and its working good still for being 16years old..

thanks in advance
mark

[2root4u]

Originally Posted by sleeper3000

ok i got a question.. i got the tuner and hand held data logger to work on my car now...

when i hit 1.00bar i hit fuel cut..

and a way to fix this is to cut back on the air flow chart with the greddy right? if so what would i put in the charts? -0.5 or 0.5? like i'm guessing when you put a -x.xx it will take away the signal and if you put a postive it will add to the signal..

pretty much i'm trying to boost up to 1.00bar and for some reason when the car hits .90 it does fuel cut.. i know its not spark blow-out.. i changed the plugs and wires... plugs gapped to .32 and wires 8.5 msd....

so in other words what all would i have to change with the greddy tuner to make it boost up to or past 1.00bar?

i saw in the tuner there is a boost-cut limit setting and mine are all set to 3000hz accross the board and i'm guessing thats the stock setting..

also i have the 255lph fuel pump and hotwire. and i tested the regulator and its working good still for being 16years old..

thanks in advance
mark

Sounds like you using global injector sizing. If so, go back and read the methods of tuning at the beginning of the thread.

[BlackStealth]

sleeper3000: Sounds like you've reached 100% input injector duty cycle, and that's something you must avoid doing, otherwise it will feel like fuel cut as you described. The boost cut limit 3000 numbers mean nothing, it's just a value. As 2root4u suggested, go back and pick one of the tuning methods that applies to you.