-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[Gray Haze]

Rev. D in my VR-4.

[2root4u]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Gray Haze's speed density map simulates the stock MAF with no injector sizing correction, so you should expect to see large HZ numbers. 3150 HZ is the max emanage will allow and you'll see it in some places. A portion of his speed density map will never be used in the high psi area by emanage because of boost cut limiter and the I/J map takes over.

The advantage of using Gray Haze's method is that the stock ECU receives unmodified airflow HZ information. This gives us stock timing, stock fueling, correct activation operation of the low/high voltage fuel pump relay, no need to bypass the high fuel pressure solenoid (hot starts), and correct amount of fuel for starting the car. At some point with the high HZ reading during WOT, the stock ECU will output 100% injector duty cycle to emanage and emanage cannot do business as usual. This is where we introduce boost cut limiter, and lock a maximum HZ value so the ECU will never reach 100% injector duty cycle. All extra fueling requirements are done using the I/J map.

Using Trevor's map or as with most piggybacks we feed a lower HZ value to the ECU to compensate for the larger than stock injectors. The side effects includes incorrect timing (usually too much), low/high voltage fuel pump relay activation occurring too late, hot start issues (requires removing high fuel pressure solenoid), and dumping too much fuel during cranking. If you have too large of injector, you must play with the timing map on pump gas.

I understand what you're saying. However, I propose that using Trevor's map is not nearly as troublesome as a traditional HZ-lowering piggyback. You can do a large portion of injector adjustment post-ECU with the emanage which you can't do with traditional piggybacks--thus, the timing isn't nearly as jacked and those other issues aren't as prevalent. Since that alleviates the dangerous timing spikes, you can then using the timing adjustment if necessary on a much smaller scale.

The thing that scares me a bit about using the airflow limiter is guessing the values to add at the airflow plateau. It's a bit scary making up numbers in the middle of serious boost. But that's just me.

[BlackStealth]

Gray Haze: Thanks for looking up that revision number for me. Maybe I'll sell my revision B and buy the latest revision EMU someday.

2root4u: When I tried Gray Haze's technique I did it slowly as I was concerned like you. I first datalogged a few runs and discovered 2000HZ was the magic number for my car. I took note at which PSI the 2000hz mark came on and made sure it was very rich as a precaution at that given PSI and beyond. Set my boost controller to limit my boost at the given PSI and verified. Did a few runs and slowly incremented the boost on my boost controller and verified everything worked as it should and it did.

If switching over at high boost scares you, you could always try boost cut limiting at 0psi and see how that goes for you. This way you can learn how it works at very low boost levels.

[2root4u]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Gray Haze: Thanks for looking up that revision number for me. Maybe I'll sell my revision B and buy the latest revision EMU someday.

2root4u: When I tried Gray Haze's technique I did it slowly as I was concerned like you. I first datalogged a few runs and discovered 2000HZ was the magic number for my car. I took note at which PSI the 2000hz mark came on and made sure it was very rich as a precaution at that given PSI and beyond. Set my boost controller to limit my boost at the given PSI and verified. Did a few runs and slowly incremented the boost on my boost controller and verified everything worked as it should and it did.

If switching over at high boost scares you, you could always try boost cut limiting at 0psi and see how that goes for you. This way you can learn how it works at very low boost levels.

I've tried it a bit earlier while tuning and did you like you mentioned--just ran super rich and started to lean it out slowly. Just seems like a real tedious process, and I'm guaranteed to get a ticket before I can get the whole map tuned. I'll see how far my current method takes me first then maybe try this method if doesn't work out. Thanks for the input.

[Gray Haze]

Originally Posted by 2root4u

I've tried it a bit earlier while tuning and did you like you mentioned--just ran super rich and started to lean it out slowly. Just seems like a real tedious process, and I'm guaranteed to get a ticket before I can get the whole map tuned. I'll see how far my current method takes me first then maybe try this method if doesn't work out. Thanks for the input.

Street tuning is a no no!
Dyno FTW!

[2root4u]

Originally Posted by Gray Haze

Street tuning is a no no!
Dyno FTW!

Of course street tuning isn't the best...I did go to the dyno and wasted a lot of money since my boost controller decided to quit working. I'm not going back until I had a decent tune to ensure all systems are go and to tweak the tune.

[LeRoyDL]

Hey guys,
I realize this is the wrong thread for me, but maybe one you guys can help me out.
I am running emanage blue, have a greddy p/h/w boost guage and recently picked up an E01.

1st question: I have heard before you can use one pressure sensor for the emanage and gauge, my question is can i also tap the signal for the e01? I really don't want 3 different pressure sensors if i don't have to.

2nd question: If i can run them all off one sensor how do i splice? Just pick one to power the sensor then splice ground and signal wire for the other two? If anyone has done this or has any comments your insite would be appreciated.

Thanks,
LeRoy

[Racer_X]

I don't know about that, but when I tried to run my EMU off of the same pressure sensor as my 60mm PWH gauge, neither one read correctly. running the gauge by itself worked fine, and running the EMU by itself worked fine. didn't work together. you will probably need to buy more sensors.

[LeRoyDL]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

I don't know about that, but when I tried to run my EMU off of the same pressure sensor as my 60mm PWH gauge, neither one read correctly. running the gauge by itself worked fine, and running the EMU by itself worked fine. didn't work together. you will probably need to buy more sensors.

hmm, damn.. i have read you can share them. i have 2 sensors but was hoping i could run them all off 1.. may need to go ahead and buy another.. weak... if any one else has any experince or thoughts please chime in

[BlackStealth]

Here's a speed density map I'm using on my car.
EMU wired to stage 2.5 (Injectors add only).
Injectors: RC550
Stock low/high voltage fuel relay still in place
Stock FPR
Erik Gross hotwire method
Supra Fuel pump
15G turbos
DN Downpipe
Stock catback and catalytic converters
MAF with honey comb screens removed
K&N FIPK
DSM IC

At WOT the AFR is approx 10.7 nice and rich so it should be a safe map to use if your mods are similar enough. I'd recommend leaning it out once you confirm it's okay to extract more HP.

I have this map set to enrich fuel acceleration and pull back some timing during the transition to WOT to combat initial knock that sometimes appears on my car.

For added safety, the AF Target map and I/J fuel map will only add fuel if for some reason your car is lean during WOT.