-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[Racer_X]

maybe your knock sensor is going bad?

when you view knock on the EMU logger, scale the chart from 0 to 30 knock count. Also, make sure your jumper is in the right position. I posted about that in the other thread too. if it is in the wrong position, it won't work..................and it might cause more problems as the signal wire from the emu puts out measureable voltage if the jumper isn't set in the right position. search the other thread for the info and check your jumper. you might kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

[ver fer]

Originally Posted by SirLaughaloTT

So i should just put 360 in the (before) box and leave the (after) box empty?

thanks for the help..

If you are using stock injectors you would enter 360 into both boxes. You should be able to leave it at zero as well since there is no correction.

[SirLaughaloTT]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

maybe your knock sensor is going bad?

when you view knock on the EMU logger, scale the chart from 0 to 30 knock count. Also, make sure your jumper is in the right position. I posted about that in the other thread too. if it is in the wrong position, it won't work..................and it might cause more problems as the signal wire from the emu puts out measureable voltage if the jumper isn't set in the right position. search the other thread for the info and check your jumper. you might kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

I checked the jumpers they are both open the knock problem comes and goes but only when i have the emanage hooked up never happened when directly connected to the ecu.. should i worry and not drive the car? also when i rev my car and let it come down it drops to like 400 rpm and wants to stall....
I tired using the anti engine stall which works great by the way but i only set it to hold for 5 seconds and after that i drops down low and wants to stall again...

[Gray Haze]

if your getting constant 7 8 9 cts then the gnd to the knock sensor is probally loose.

[SirLaughaloTT]

Originally Posted by Gray Haze

if your getting constant 7 8 9 cts then the gnd to the knock sensor is probally loose.

where can i find the ground to the knock sensor? also should the car feel a little different with the emanage hooked up or not.

[waffleguy]

Follow the wires from the sensor (in the valley between the 2 heads) to the connector mounted on the side of the intake manifold. Right before the connector there I had my wires starting to fray. I re-wrapped them in electrical tape and my constant 7-10 counts of knock disappeared.

EDIT: Here's the thread I was looking at when I fixed mine. The wire braid/mesh is wrapped around the white wire. My white wire had cracked and was touching the braid/mesh. I made sure the white wire was all sealed up and that fixed it for me.

EDIT(again): I guess it would help it if I actually included the link....
8-9 counts of knock at idle

Blake

[sleeper3000]

has anyone put the boomslang on thier car yet with the gto adapter and for some reason when you get to 4200 rpm it leans way out and misfires?

i dont see how this would or why. because i didnt change any of the settings at all. everything is stock.

with out the gto adapter the car idles a lil rough and is really rich at idle. and then leans out once boost starts to come in.

with the gto adapter it idle a lil better and isnt as rich but still leans out at first signs of boost build up. and then just misfires and wants to stall.

has anyone else had this problem with the boomslang?
i know it has to do somthing with going to stage 3.
i'm guessing since the injector wires are cut and the gto adapter sends a signal that never changes but yet the emanage ultimate is also connected to the same wires i dont see how they could both work at the same time and send the right signals to the ecu.

i would really like to keep the stage 3 wiring. and gto adapter. and be able to tune the car right.
i dont want the crappy idle and it leaning out at only 4200rpm at like 3psi boost.

so for a newb with everything stock besides just 3 inch exhaust. which shouldnt really do anything to much.
if anyone could or would take the time to tell me how to tune it right. it would help me out alot.

i read the tuning methods 1-5 or 6
and i'm not changing injectors or going gutted maf or speed density yet. i just need to tune the car and get it to run right. (like right now when its plugged in with the boomslang i know i got to stage 3 right away. and i know i want to keep the idc under 100%. so the cells right before 100% i need to use the boost cut off feature. and i understand that. and then if it starts to lean out at the top end i need to add fuel via the injector maps. i understand that to. but i cant even get the car to run right to get any data logs or anything. i dont even get up to 60% idc when the car leans out because of the boost kicking in.) it always leans out when the boost kicks in no matter what rpm range im in. so somthing isnt changing in the maps and i didnt even touch any of the cells or anything.
all i did was plug in the boomslang. wire up the gto adapter to the injector wires going into the ecu ch 1-6 and set up the engine type and click apply. then started the car. i got no check engine light and it didnt run to rich at idle when it warmed up either. so i thought it was ok to do some data log runs. but once the boost kicks in (3psi) the car is way to lean and bogs down. let off the gas to run at 1-2 psi and its fine. its a lil lean but not alot. so somthing is not changing. dunno if its the gto adapter or what.
if anyone has a base map that works with the boomslang and gto adapter. plz plz post it or email it to me
raisedzr5s10@aim.com

thanks in advance for everyones help

[BlackStealth]

Notice: I've edited and added some comments to tuning method #4 and #5 in the original post.

I recently rewired my boomslang harness back to stage 3 and made my own greddy CEL adaptor. The new redesigned greddy CEL adaptor worked flawlessly but the same couldn't be said about stage 3. I updated my very old EMU to v2.13 software and created a new map based on tuning method #4 and #5. To my surprise I had to richen the tune at low engine loads (idle for example). This was the opposite experience I remember when I was at stage 3 once before.

Part throttle driving experience - excellent. Noticed a small improvement on turbo spoolup and drivability was also slightly improved. This no doubt is probably because the timing maps and fuel maps are now functioning in a manner as they were originally intended.
WOT throttle driving experience - not so good. I didn't even reach the 100% input injector limit and my AFR was heading fast to 10.0 (the richest my WB reads). No matter what I did in the map I couldn't prevent it from going over rich. Being brave I raised the boost higher and experimented with the boost cut limiter. The car ran great but I could feel it slow down from being overly rich. This is not acceptable to me. Then another bright idea hit me, what if I made a hybrid map. From vacuum to 0 psi would be controlled by the I/J map and 0.1psi and beyond would be controlled by an airflow map. This way I could have stock drivability at low engine loads, and use an airflow map that is known to work at high engine loads. It worked except the car still ran rich at WOT! At this point I was frustrated and went back to stage 2.5 wiring where I was happy before where my car behaves as it should at WOT.

I don't know why I couldn't get tuning methods 4 and 5 to work perfectly. Is my first generation EMU not able to do this? Would injector duration time method have worked?

sleeper3000: The greddy cel adaptor doesn't send a signal per say. The stock ECU expects the stock injectors to behave a certain way in order to determine if they're faulty or not. That's what the greddy cel adaptor does, it pretends to look like an injector from an electrical point of view.

[Gray Haze]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Notice: I've edited and added some comments to tuning method #4 and #5 in the original post.

I recently rewired my boomslang harness back to stage 3 and made my own greddy CEL adaptor. The new redesigned greddy CEL adaptor worked flawlessly but the same couldn't be said about stage 3. I updated my very old EMU to v2.13 software and created a new map based on tuning method #4 and #5. To my surprise I had to richen the tune at low engine loads (idle for example). This was the opposite experience I remember when I was at stage 3 once before.

Part throttle driving experience - excellent. Noticed a small improvement on turbo spoolup and drivability was also slightly improved. This no doubt is probably because the timing maps and fuel maps are now functioning in a manner as they were originally intended.
WOT throttle driving experience - not so good. I didn't even reach the 100% input injector limit and my AFR was heading fast to 10.0 (the richest my WB reads). No matter what I did in the map I couldn't prevent it from going over rich. Being brave I raised the boost higher and experimented with the boost cut limiter. The car ran great but I could feel it slow down from being overly rich. This is not acceptable to me. Then another bright idea hit me, what if I made a hybrid map. From vacuum to 0 psi would be controlled by the I/J map and 0.1psi and beyond would be controlled by an airflow map. This way I could have stock drivability at low engine loads, and use an airflow map that is known to work at high engine loads. It worked except the car still ran rich at WOT! At this point I was frustrated and went back to stage 2.5 wiring where I was happy before where my car behaves as it should at WOT.

I don't know why I couldn't get tuning methods 4 and 5 to work perfectly. Is my first generation EMU not able to do this? Would injector duration time method have worked?

sleeper3000: The greddy cel adaptor doesn't send a signal per say. The stock ECU expects the stock injectors to behave a certain way in order to determine if they're faulty or not. That's what the greddy cel adaptor does, it pretends to look like an injector from an electrical point of view.

Weird. It should work just fine.... IDK why its doing that.

[AudioPmp23]

I noticed on my LC-1 through the EMu that I was also running into 10.X AFR from about 5000rpm and by 6K the AFR was into the 9's. I even tried changing the correction at all of those values and it didn't seem to change much.

It seems like our ECU's are just damn fussy...I think I see now why everyone that has a tuner shop says AEM or leave it stock.