-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[archangelcomp]

Well, I just got back from a very interesting night of tuning. I had been experiencing a horrible idle problem...11 afr after driving for a while. I tried all kinds of shit tonight to fix it, but to no avail. Then...I figured I would check my BOV. Tightened it up...and yeah. Completely fixed that problem.

But then I realized my car was ripping every form of ass that is known to man. I guess my BOV was acting as a bigass boost leak or something. I had a great tune down for a HARD 1-2-3 pull with no skipping, no knock. Now, I'm getting 14 counts of knock and can feel the timing getting pulled. I guess I need to up the fuel or turn down the boost!

I had fun though...even if I'm only tuning with the airflow adjustment map

Are there any other maps I should be using, other than the timing control if I need to pull some timing?

[Fourdoor]

Well crap!

I was hopping to do tons of stock data logs with an OBD logger befor messing with the Emanage Ultimate, but my car is a 96 and the data transfer rate for the OBDII logger sucks, plus I can't log injector pulse width or injector duty cycle

Did anyone with a Hybrid car do tons of data logging when they were stock that they can share?

Keith

[BlackStealth]

Fourdoor: The emanage ultimate datalogger produces better datalogging results especially with it's high sampling rates. I know you're concerned about stage 3 wiring skewing the stock results so why not temporarily modify the boomslang harness and take it down to stage 2.5, at this stage you are limited to ADDing fuel through the I/J map but none of the side effects. This way you can datalog everything you need.

[Fourdoor]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Fourdoor: The emanage ultimate datalogger produces better datalogging results especially with it's high sampling rates. I know you're concerned about stage 3 wiring skewing the stock results so why not temporarily modify the boomslang harness and take it down to stage 2.5, at this stage you are limited to ADDing fuel through the I/J map but none of the side effects. This way you can datalog everything you need.

That sounds like a good solution if you could specify what I needed to do to the boomslang harness in order to convert it to 2.5.... I just don't want to screw it up

I am sort of pissed off that I wasted the money on an OBDII logger.... for anyone reading this thread take my advice on this, do not waste your money on an OBDII logger.

Keith

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by Fourdoor

That sounds like a good solution if you could specify what I needed to do to the boomslang harness in order to convert it to 2.5.... I just don't want to screw it up

I am sort of pissed off that I wasted the money on an OBDII logger.... for anyone reading this thread take my advice on this, do not waste your money on an OBDII logger.

Keith

Sell your OBDII logger and hope you can recover your money.

I've converted my boomslang harness to stage 2.5 and it's wired exactly the same as the blue emanage injector wires (as it can only ADD too).

Let's first examine closely what stage 3 wiring does. The EMU wants to get in between the ECU injector wires and the physical injector themselves. This is accomplished by intercepting six injector wires which will give you a total of 12 wires if you can vision the interception as a cut. Six of which are closest to the ECU (injector input wires), and the remaining six are closest to the injectors (injector output wires). Our goal is to have the ECU wired directly to its physical injectors again.

To do this you need to cut the wires referred to as pins 34,35,36,42,43,44 (see connector C page 11 of your installation manual). When you cut those six wires this will give you a total of 12 wires, six from the EMU and the remaining six at the injectors. The six wires from the EMU needs to be taped up as they won't be used again. The remaining six wires at the injectors need to be spliced in at 17,18,19,20,28,29 (see connector B page 11 of your installation manual). Make sure injector 1 output matches with injector 1 input, and so fourth.

[archangelcomp]

Quick question here. I've been tuning...actually figuring stuff out. I got a very nice tune for a 1-2 gear pull...with very minimal knock. The problem is, when I shift into 3rd from high up in 2nd, I get knock. Gets up to about 14 counts of it. What could cause this?

Thanks!

[BlackStealth]

You may have false knock from worn engine mounts or worn carrier bearings or exhaust banging against something, etc.

[archangelcomp]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

You may have false knock from worn engine mounts or worn carrier bearings or exhaust banging against something, etc.

Carrier bearings were actually replaced about 1k miles ago, engine mounts are pristine...

But, my exhaust bangs! I'm going to go try and fix that. I really suspect it isn't that though

[AudioPmp23]

Originally Posted by archangelcomp

Well, I just got back from a very interesting night of tuning. I had been experiencing a horrible idle problem...11 afr after driving for a while. I tried all kinds of shit tonight to fix it, but to no avail. Then...I figured I would check my BOV. Tightened it up...and yeah. Completely fixed that problem.

But then I realized my car was ripping every form of ass that is known to man. I guess my BOV was acting as a bigass boost leak or something. I had a great tune down for a HARD 1-2-3 pull with no skipping, no knock. Now, I'm getting 14 counts of knock and can feel the timing getting pulled. I guess I need to up the fuel or turn down the boost!

I had fun though...even if I'm only tuning with the airflow adjustment map

Are there any other maps I should be using, other than the timing control if I need to pull some timing?

So, did that fix your idle issues? That's sweet if it did. Can you post up an updated map as I think you're the only active one with similar turbos and 560's?

[Fourdoor]

Originally Posted by archangelcomp

Carrier bearings were actually replaced about 1k miles ago, engine mounts are pristine...

But, my exhaust bangs! I'm going to go try and fix that. I really suspect it isn't that though

The engine loads up more and stays at heavy load for a longer time in a higher gear like 3rd or 4th, with my EVO and the AEM EMS I do all of my tunning in 3rd and 4th gear. If it is safe and knock free in 4th it will be safe in a lower gear.... the other way around it NOT true

Keith