-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

[archangelcomp]

Hmm. I do believe my EMU is reading 0 timing all across the board.

Thats probably not a good sign, eh?

[archangelcomp]

Oh, also, with the idle problem, I have a little bit of info here that might help diagnose it. When I pop the car into neutral when I'm just coasting along, my wideband o2 will show ~11-11.4. Every 8 or 10 seconds the car will sound like it "burps" and then the wideband shoots back up to ~14.7. It stays there less than a second then goes back to a really rich AFR. When the car "burps" the rpms drop down a few hundred.

Any thoughts? At least its trying to get to a normal idle. This is only after I've been driving the car for a while. On a cold startup it idles perfectly.

[Fourdoor]

Originally Posted by archangelcomp

Oh, also, with the idle problem, I have a little bit of info here that might help diagnose it. When I pop the car into neutral when I'm just coasting along, my wideband o2 will show ~11-11.4. Every 8 or 10 seconds the car will sound like it "burps" and then the wideband shoots back up to ~14.7. It stays there less than a second then goes back to a really rich AFR. When the car "burps" the rpms drop down a few hundred.

Any thoughts? At least its trying to get to a normal idle. This is only after I've been driving the car for a while. On a cold startup it idles perfectly.

If you have it tunned to run 14.7:1 durring warm up, it will run lean as hell durring normal cruise and idle. The car is supposed to run about 11:1 durring warm up because fuel does not vaporize as well at low temperatures, so the stock computer injects extra fuel... Now, if you are adjusting the EMU to idle at 14.7:1 durring warm up, it will be way to lean after warmup is complete.

Keith

[lethal_vr4]

Originally Posted by archangelcomp

Hmm. I do believe my EMU is reading 0 timing all across the board.

Thats probably not a good sign, eh?

Just to clarify... You do not have to use the timing map... you could do all your tuning with the Airflow map, SAFC style. So having your tuning map all zero'd is not necessarily a bad thing.

Using the timing map is recommended however as it will give you a better tune.

[archangelcomp]

Originally Posted by Fourdoor

If you have it tunned to run 14.7:1 durring warm up, it will run lean as hell durring normal cruise and idle. The car is supposed to run about 11:1 durring warm up because fuel does not vaporize as well at low temperatures, so the stock computer injects extra fuel... Now, if you are adjusting the EMU to idle at 14.7:1 durring warm up, it will be way to lean after warmup is complete.

Keith

I meant the 14.7 was what it would idle around after I started it up and let it warm up. It can sit there for 10 minutes just idling and still be around 14.7. Now, say I go on a 10 minute drive and then let it idle, it idles rich as hell. It also "burps" like I said...like its trying to go back to ~14.7.

And by the timing being 0 all across the board I meant that when I'm logging with the emu, the timing always shows as 0. I probably should have clarified that a bit. Is that normal? I haven't messed around with my timing maps at all.

[archangelcomp]

Alright, so I've been frigging around with things recently, trying to get it down right. I figured I would try turning the boost up and seeing how it would handle it. Well...I got to ~25psi, and I stopped. I started getting scared

Goes like a fucking raped ape. Holy shit. It wasn't just spiking to 25 either, it was hitting it and holding. This was confirmed with both my electronic boost gauge and my DSBC.

So, here are some logs from shiver's setup. I haven't gotten a chance to get my laptop hooked up and take logs with it...I really need someone else in the car to help with that.

Log Uno

Log Dos

And have a picture to mark the occasion

[Dj_Frost]

man I envy you...

I paid $650 for this guy to tune the car (came down from the US) and my clutch wasnt holding so I had to change it. Luckily Fran66 still hadn't installed his HPF clutch setup so I bought it and had it installed but it doesnt stop there... I was breaking it in yesterday and my alternator decided to take a shit. And NOW on top of everything, I take the car to the shop so that the alternator can be taken out and the clutch is slipping and rattling when fully disengaged. F*CK! Now I gotta wait till Friday so they can open it up and see whats messed... and the tuner is leaving on Monday and I dont have a working map

*end rant...*

=:::

[Master X]

More issues...

Same thing as before when I put the 560s in. It runs hella rich at idle and regardless of what values I put in the airflow correction OR the injector adjustment maps it doesn't make the car act any differently. The only way I can get the car to respond to anything the emanage does is if I change the injector before/after values. make it 360/560 and upon exporting the car struggles and dies.

Any idea wtf its doing? I checked the air input signal wire and its connected fine. I look at the datalogging window and it shows input ~49hz, output ~31hz. Thats with -35 correction. I even put like -50 into all the cells. Still no indication its receiving those values at all. And yes, I am hitting export .

I'm pretty sure I have the injector adapter wired right as it never gives me a CEL (it did before when it was wired wrong) but would not having it wired right cause something like this?

Oh, one more thing. If I got say a boomslang with knock/water, but in that ch setting area it is set to the water signal thing could that be doing anything? I changed it to knock/water with no effect.

Here is my map. I'm pretty sure I have ALREADY fouled my plugs again at this point.

http://www.3dingenuity.com/vr4/crap.EM2 Yes I know the airflow correction isnt right but I just want to see if everything else is ok.

[BlackStealth]

Which version of emanage are you using Master X? v1.14? v2.00? v2.12?

[Master X]

2.00

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