Should I have more than just the airflow adjustment map going? I know theres a good half million other ones on that config tab. I'm just still so damn confused
And its knocking a bit, randomly. Like 6 counts, max. Never knocks during WOT, but it loves to during slower driving. Also, some days it will knock on WOT, others it wont. I'm just going to blame that on temperature and hope thats what it is
Someone should go vacationing in Maine this summer. And be sure to stop in and tune my car for me
On a different note, I cannot get my emu to downgrade to 1.14. With 1.14 loaded on my laptop, I continuously get the "Would you like to connect in real-time" or whatever that message is. As soon as I say "yes" to connect, it pops up again. Anyone have suggestions on downgrading?
Try installing v1.14 and 2.12 EMU software on different folders. Then run v2.12 software and use the Main Unit update from the pull down menu and select the v1.14 folder for the update.
Should I have more than just the airflow adjustment map going?
Only select what you need to keep things simple. Nothing wrong with just using the airflow map by itself if it gets the job done.
If you feel you need to get rid of that knock completely you may have to look the possibility of using the timing map, and if the knock only shows up during a sharp throttle tip-in you may want to explore fuel acceleration map or ignition acceleration map.
OBD1/2 dataloggers will show what the ECU wants target timing to be, not actual. Some obd1 Dataloggers are off too.
With the boomslang harness you want Knock/Water temp if you plan to use greddys autotune feature.
What do you think woudl eb the best harness to get though.
Knock/Water - Would help with cold starts and overheating
Knock/Air - Would help with trim for chaning climate and also heatsoak
Knock/Knock - Dont see the point is having this. Seems like a waste of one channel
For tuning pourposes, Which seems more viable??
__________________
ANDREW
Black '99 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
First one off the assembly line
Mods
RPS Stage II Street Clutch, K&N FIPK, HKS SSBOV,Turbo XS DSMBC @ 15 psi, Gutted Precats, 3SX Downpipe, 3SX Test Pipe, 3SX Light Weight Crank Pulley, 3SX Adjustable Control Arms, Megan Racing Adjustable Coilovers, Shorter Throw Shifter, Custom Dimple/Slotted Rotors, SS Brake Lines, Hawk HPS Pads.
Alpine head, MB Quart 5.25 and tweeter 2 way in back replacing the 6X9s, Eclipse Co-Axils in the doors, no tweeters in the dash right now, Eclipse amp for components
Ok, finally got my emanage back in AND my hand held halo logging software working woot!
Ok, one of the major things I noticed right off the bat, my timing advance is at 29*. Is it just me or is that UBER high? And excuse my noobism but thats extremely retarded (in more ways then one) correct?
EDIT: I think it might be -29* because reading on here I think if it was at +29* i wouldnt have an engine. Plus when I accelerate it goes toward 0. However, my datalogging graph shows the value above zero. So im not sure.
If I was having the huge issues with leaking air and running rich, could it have advanced it that far?
If you are talking about at low load situations (cruise under vacuum, idle, etc), 29* is not unheard of.... under boost that is a booooooooom! situation.
Keith
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Heavily Modded 05 EVO RS (550 wheel HP on Dynapack AWD dyno) on E-85 along with a 96 VR-4 Spyder.
Yes, that is at idle. It goes down of course as I put load on. Do I need to adjust that though? It is a little low/high?
Don't worry about the timing just yet. Concentrate on getting your AFR correct first. Once that's all good and if you have some pesky knock that won't go away then look into pulling some timing away.
Can someone post a map that involves timing so I can see what one should basically look like?
I really need to get this mofo tuned. Pulls like a raped ape at 15psi, but damn I'm dousing her with fuel.
Any sense in putting in my larger meth injection nozzle and reducing the fuel a tad to see how that goes? I'm running a 50/50 w/m mix. And its true methanol, not windshield washer fluid
See post #4 for an example map with timing being pulled.
1. If your AFR is good and you knock, then pull a degree of timing.
2. Make another run and verify the knock level reduced or eliminated, repeat step 1 if necessary.
If you find yourself pulling a lot of timing, you should consider removing some timing before the offending cell.
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Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-
