-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

BlackStealth · 03-23-2007, 12:07 PM

Ultimate Emanage tuning guide (not to be confused with the blue emanage). Purpose: Instructions on how to tune, and provide an organized location for sharing EMU maps. *** A WORK IN PROGESS ***
For Ultimate Emanage installation questions, etc refer to:-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-

Most people rush into installing bigger injectors and EMU but then don't know how to tune it. Like how much timing should I have at xxxx RPMS and xx Boost, or what AFR should I be at this given RPM and Boost. Don't make this mistake. If you still have your stock injectors and stock MAF then it's not too late to go back temporarily and do it right.

There are many tuning methods available on the EMU, but I'm only gonna cover a few of them.

Tuning Method #1 on non-gutted stock MAF.

Hardware requirement:

EMU unit
EMU main harness
Greddy pressure sensor and harness
compatible Wideband o2 controller
Greddy harness for reading wideband o2 results (0-5V)

With stock 360cc injectors and stock MAF installed, we need to record some EMU datalog runs. What were interested in capturing is Boost (PSI), RPMs, Wideband AFRs, and actual timing numbers. Make a few runs in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. Preferrably you want to capture a datalog run without any knock -- and if this is a problem turn down your boost and try again. Also it is worth mentioning you should get a datalog run with injector duty cycle below 100%.

Make note of your current fuel related mods, such as:
Stock fuel pump (yes/no):
Fuel pump wire rewired(hotwired) (yes/no):
Stock Fuel relay low/high voltage bypassed (yes/no):
Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator (yes/no):

If you have an OBD datalogger take note of the low, mid, high fuel trims as they might be useful sometime for future reference.

The more datalog runs you save the better. Even normal cruising ones are good too.

Now you're ready to replace the stock injectors with larger injectors. Go ahead and make the hardware changes.

Setting up the airflow correction map. Switch from TPS tuning to Boost PSI tuning and set up your custom PSI load scale, such as -12.5 PSI, -10 PSI, -7.5 PSI, -5 PSI, etc.

Do not be tempted to use the I/J size before and after, as this confuses people when they run into the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. Yes this makes life easier, but it's also a double edge sword and most people don't understand the consequences so it's better to ignore that feature for now.

Use the formula: (stock injector size) / (new injector size) - 1
For example (360/550) - 1 will give you -34% correction.
One would think that inputing -34% in all the cells in the airflow correction map should be good enough but it is not. Our stock MAF is not linear, so this is one reason why we need to put more work into the airflow correction map.

With -34% populated in every cell and if you did manage to get your car to idle you'll notice it is running very lean. Change the low load cells to -20% and see how that works. Depending on which fuel related mods that have been installed on your car, this -20% will vary greatly. Use the interpolate feature so there's a gradual step from one cell to the next. Now it's time to test your settings, for safety reasons turn down the boost as low as it can go and get all of your tuning done in 1st gear first. If the car starts bucking during WOT then most likely you're too lean at that given RPM and PSI point. Refer back to your original stock 360cc datalog runs to see what AFR you should be running.

Here's a sample AFR from stealth316.com to assist you, but there's no PSI load scale to help you out.

Now that you have your car running smoothly proceed to 2nd and 3rd gear test runs and verify your tuning is still valid.

Once you're satisified, I suggest incrementing the boost and repeat.

Eventually you'll run into some knock. First verify the AFR is correct, if its too lean, add some fuel and try again. If the knock does not go away, add some fuel just before the problem cell. If the knock persisits, you may be running too much timing, recall larger injectors increases timing advance. You can refer back to your old stock 360cc injector map to see how much more additional timing your running than normal. At this point you need to create a timing map and set up the scales similar if not the same as your airflow adjustment map. With the timing map created, you can subtract timing at the problem cell, and/or subtract timing just before problem cell. Try subtracting a small amount of timing and repeat until knock goes away.

Do some part throttle runs and verify everything is good. See, tuning isn't that hard when you have something to refer to.

This fuel map that you created can be readily shared with others. Someone with a different exhaust, turbochargers, intercooler configurations should still be okay as the factory MAF can measure increase or decrease airflow changes, only speed density users need to worry. All fuel related mods (fuel pump upgrade, fuel pump relay bypass, hotwired, aftermarket FPR), and different brand name injectors (lag time) play a larger role between map variations from car to car. 91, or 94 octane level has some WOT variations too.

A special note to owners running stage 3 wiring (ie boomslang owners):
The EMU can be made completely invisibile with 0% correction in the maps, thus recording stock 360cc datalogs very easy for wiring stages 1 through 2.5. However at stage 3 wiring, I noted that at idle I was running very rich and required attention so it may not be possible for you to record a true stock 360cc datalog. Instead I'd suggest downloading some from this thread when they come available for comparison purposes.

Tuning Method #2 Speed density on gutted stock MAF.

Before you reach this step, be sure to complete tuning method #1 first as this will allow you to create a perfect airflow output table for your car. Sharing speed density maps are fine, but note they fluctuate more from one car to another because any modifications that influences V.E. directly influences the HZ numbers in the map. Modifications such as exhaust, downpipe, gutted cats, air filters, intercoolers and many more directly influences speed denisty. This also means every time you a make a minor modification you need to recheck your tune as it may need changing.

Why go speed density? Turbochargers spoolup much faster (makes a 15G car feel like a 9b car spoolup, well at least thats what it feels like to me). The stock MAF is limited to xxxx HZ or xxxx airflow and the greddy pressure sensor can go alot further. Speed density continues to work if intercooler pipes blow apart, and doesn't mind open blow off valves.

Now the hard part, creating an airflow output map for your car. With v2.00 of the emanage software, you can use the data sampling map to assist you. Every cell needs a number, so you need to drive your car under many different RPMS and load conditions. Turning down your boost at different increments will help you find the HZ numbers for each cell. Some cells will be impossible to do as you may never get there ie (20psi at 1000 rpms) and I wouldn't worry too much about those.

Just estimate the HZ number from the neighbouring cells. Take a look at the example airflow output number to get a better understanding of what belongs there.

To run speed density, toggle the airflow adjustment map to airflow output map. If you did your job right, you should notice no change. The airflow output map should now be emulating your factory MAF HZ signals along with your tune integrated. For example, you don't have to make corrections for larger injectors because you already did this in tuning method #1. Confirm everything is working as it should.

Now proceed to gutting your factory MAF. Removing the three honeycomb screens is pretty easy to do, and is reversible should you ever change your mind. Run your car again and make a test drive. You should notice the turbos spool up faster. By removing the honeycomb screens you've made a mod effecting the V.E. so you now have to go back and retune again.

When you want a richer condition you need to increase the HZ, and to make a condition leaner you decrease the HZ.

Note: If you're having trouble getting a steady idle with large injectors because the HZ value doesn't offer enough resolution, you can add more fuel outside of the ECU's control by using the I/J Adj. Map1 and add fuel directly.

Ackowledge a small problem: the barometer inside the stock MAF and the greddy pressure sensor are both compensating for elevation changes. Trevor has reported this is neglicable.

Some people (Trevor, Pyun) have gone one step further and to hack the factory MAF and eliminate it from the air intake. Here's some pictures:

If you're gonna share your maps, be sure to include every mod you can think of.

BlackStealth · 03-23-2007, 12:08 PM

Tuning Method #3 Speed Density using GM IAT, fixed baro signal.

The principles described in Tuning Method #2 is exactly the same except the factory MAF is removed completely. With a fixed baro signal you won't have elevation changes affecting your tune as the greddy pressure sensor already compensates for this. The GM IAT is not a 100% match to the mitsubishi IAT so don't be alarmed if your intake temperature numbers are off.

Tuning Method #4 stock MAF + I/J injector sizing correction

Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor.

This has got to be one of the most interesting tuning features EMU has to offer. Instead of manipulating the airflow signal to the ECU, we manipulate the injectors directly completely bypassing the ECU. What benefits are to this? Stock drivability with stock ignition timing, no hot start issues (if you still have your high fuel pressure solenoid still connected), and the low/high fuel voltage relay will operate at appropriate times. And now the bad, you must keep your input injector duty cycle below 100% at all times. Let's identify the two injector duty cycles that now exist.

Input injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from your ECU and into the input of the EMU.
Output injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from the EMU and drives your fuel injectors.

The EMU allows you to enter injector lag time for more precision. When I tested this feature out it didn't work properly, and there's no harm in just leaving the before and after lag time to zero. I suspect this feature may work if your new injectors are laggier than the stock ones (ie. PTE) but someone else can experiment with this.

This feature alone isn't that useful, as you your limited to the same HP as stock 360cc injectors. Don't think for a minute that just because you've installed larger than stock injectors that you can run higher PSI than before. If this feature excites you then look at the Tuning Method #5 on how to proceed further.

UPDATE....Personal experiences:
Using v2.13 software and the global injector sizing (AKA I/J before and I/J after) alone made my car run idle very lean using (360cc before and 550cc after). I had to richen up the low load end of the map by 20%. I don't know why this was necessary.

Tuning Method #5 I/J injector sizing correction + Boost Cut Limiter + I/J Map

Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor.

Gray Haze has come up with an interesting tuning method in which I'll describe here. This method improves on Tuning Method #4 and works around the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. This probably is the best tuning technique as you retain stock drivability with no short comings, and no need to monkey with the timing.

To combat the 100% input injector duty cycle, you need to determine at which PSI level this occurs. Once this has been determined, set the boost cut limiter feature before 100% occurs, in essence, you want the airflow signal to the ECU capped at a maximum so the ECU will never reach 100% input injector duty cycle.

Now that the 100% input injector duty cycle problem has been solved, you need to add fuel by using the I/J fuel map. You have a choice of whether to increase fuel based on injector duty cycle or injector duration. The latter is a better choice. Be sure to setup the I/J fuel map based on Boost (PSI).

Update 1: I gave this tuning method a try and was a little frustrated by the fact my v2.13 EMU had trouble subtracting injector duty cycle based on percentages which caused my car to run extremely rich at WOT. In my general tips section I remembered that EMU was known to struggle with injector duty cycle and subtracting injector duration time would be more reliable. I was gonna try the injector duration time method but then realized the amount of work involved. Each cell would have different entry and I don't have any solid datalogs to assist me. I've gone back to my stage 2.5 wiring on my boomslang harness as I'm too lazy to experiment with this tuning method any further.

Update 2: I decided to try this one last time. Speed density at stage 3 works fantastic. Now being addicted to how well stage 3 works with speed density I learned a few things. Boost cut limited feature sometimes overshoots and will cause problems if you're trying to keep input injector duty cycle below 100%. The better way is to hard code the max HZ level into your speed density map, such as 1850 HZ. This guarantees no more overshoots. Next I noticed I was getting an intermittent 20ms dropout or glitch of some kind. My input injector reading would momentarily drop to a very low level which becomes a problem at high rpms (feels similar to a fuel cut). I checked and rechecked my wire harness, moved my emanage to a different location, but couldn't get rid of this glitch. I went as far as buying a second emanage ultimate (rev. E) to see if that would make any difference. Sadly, it didn't. After two weeks I decided I'd much rather give up the excellent part throttle drivability & glitchy WOT (stage 3) for okay part throttle drivability and excellent WOT operation (stage 2.5). Don't let my glitch problem deter you from using stage 3, as Gray Haze has setup four vehicles without problems, I just haven't been able to identify why I'm having a problem on my car. When I look back at Update 1, I'm not sure why I was running rich at WOT, but this time around I was using speed density instead of MAF.

BlackStealth · 03-23-2007, 12:08 PM

General Tips

Tip #1
Boomslang harnesses immediately take you to stage 3 wiring, so following tuning tips made for stage 1 and stage 2 wiring won't work exactly as described without other things to consider. See the next tip for better understand.

Tip #2 (observation).
Stage 3 wiring and the greddy CEL adaptor + v2.13 firmware/software caused my car to run lean at low engine loads (360cc I/J before, 550cc I/J after). Experimented using 360cc before and 475cc after made the car run great at low engine loads but then as I approached high engine loads it went rich. Going back to the original 360cc before and 550cc after, I had to richen the I/J map 20% at low engine loads.

Tip #3 (observation).
Greddy has released many firmware/software upgrades, and it's best to start a fresh new map each time. To save time you can open your old map into the new greddy software and perform a select/copy action and then open your fresh new map and paste your old data into there. If you try and load an old map and export it to your EMU funny things will happen such as your airflow corrections mysteriously won't work thus causing you to run rich.

Tip #4 (observation).
Temporarily removing the greddy CEL adaptor on my stage 3 setup made my car run very rich at idle / low engine loads. Keep this in mind if you're comparing greddy maps.

Speed Density Tuning Tip #1
When converting from stock MAF to speed density, your throttle tip in often will run lean momentarily (18 AFR in my case). This should be addressed first by using your I/J fuel acceleration map and add more fuel (ie. 30 to 40%). If you don't take care of this right away, it will make tuning your speed density more difficult.

Speed Density Tuning Tip #2
Don't take the sampling map and copy it verbatim into your speed density map. It can give you a general idea of what kind of numbers you should see, but by no means is it correct. As your RPM increases, your HZ number should increase, as a smooth progression. Likewise, as your load increases (Boost PSI), your HZ number should increase in a smooth manner.

Knock sensor setup

Must be using firmware v2.00 or higher for this feature to work.
Jumper 14: Open
Wire the intake temp/knock signal 2 wire for knock reading. On 91-93 cars it's pin 58, and on 94-97 cars it's pin 78.
In the software knock setup, select intake temp/knock signal 2 and set frequency to 11.38 khz Resonant type. Non-resonant is more sensitive but also picks up too much noise.

Example knock results by tapping engine block with hammer.

BlackStealth · 03-23-2007, 12:09 PM

*Shared maps reserved future use*

Denso720ccMAP: Speed Density MAP details:

93 3000GT VR4, Denso 720cc Injectors, DR-900s, PPE FMIC, ATR downpipe, Borla Cat-Back, Supra Fuel Pump, FP Resistor/Relay Bypass, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump, SX AFPR, Ross pistons (9:1), Pauter rods, DR Stage III heads, UR adjustable cam gears, 3SX lightened crank pulley, SP Engineering ECU @ 8300, Greddy rear EGT gauge, LM-1 WBO2

My RC550cc Speed Density MAP:
3000GT/Stealth International Message Center - View Single Post - -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =-

Gray Haze's base speed density map for v2.16 emanage and stage 3 wiring.
http://www.3stech.org/haze/Gray%20Ha...%20BaseMap.em2

stuntmeat · 03-24-2007, 06:45 PM

boy i wish there was a thread like this for the blue emanage.

Gray Haze · 03-25-2007, 04:02 AM

i'd like to add that you can rescale the 720CC map from -11 to +15 PSI, and this will make the ECU feel that everything on the vehicle is left stock. Then use boost cut limiter, set peak values to those in your 15 PSI row.

Then open the I/J Adjust map, and you can compensate that way. By doing this you should not have to retard timing. I will add though that you will need to watch your datalogs and make sure you never hit 100% IDC's... Try to keep it at 95%.

as soon as I get my engine back in, and my map set up the rest of hte way, Ill post a fairly heavily modded map.

BlackStealth · 03-25-2007, 05:32 AM

The 720cc denso map isn't mine, but it is a working map nevertheless.

Gray Haze your tuning method is certainly interesting and utilize some of the advanced features. You posted in another thread that you use the I/J before and after injector sizing feature and are fully aware that this needs to stay under 100% input injector duty cycle. This gives you stock like timing as the ECU is still getting uncorrected airflow HZ numbers as the correction takes place after the ECU. Knowing that 100% input duty cycle is bad you use the boost cut limiter so the airflow HZ numbers don't increase at the ECU input thus keeping the input duty cycle valid at all times. Now that the ECU is unable to increase duty cycle as boost increases you must use the I/J fuel map and add fuel. I'll add this tuning method to the guide eventually.

TrAb · 03-25-2007, 09:24 AM

Is that the same 720cc map that u sent to me?

BlackStealth · 03-25-2007, 12:43 PM

TrAb: Yes, it's the same one. How about sharing yours now that's it been tuned?

Gray Haze · 03-26-2007, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

The 720cc denso map isn't mine, but it is a working map nevertheless.

Gray Haze your tuning method is certainly interesting and utilize some of the advanced features. You posted in another thread that you use the I/J before and after injector sizing feature and are fully aware that this needs to stay under 100% input injector duty cycle. This gives you stock like timing as the ECU is still getting uncorrected airflow HZ numbers as the correction takes place after the ECU. Knowing that 100% input duty cycle is bad you use the boost cut limiter so the airflow HZ numbers don't increase at the ECU input thus keeping the input duty cycle valid at all times. Now that the ECU is unable to increase duty cycle as boost increases you must use the I/J fuel map and add fuel. I'll add this tuning method to the guide eventually.

yeah, I only got to drive my car about 10 miles with the blown up engine, but utilizing this method, the car felt like it was stock, until i hit high boost, at which point, it obviously wasn't stock. LOL

Like i said, as soon as I get my engine back together, and back in the car, ill go ahead and post my map... It will def be a very well rounded 780CC map... Un fortunatly since it will be set up to match my cars VE to the dot, I doubt alot of 3si people will be able to use it as my car is probally one of the more heavily modded td04 cars on the board. Although it would probally make for a very nice starting place for any of the 16G sized td05 cars as the 368 is a hair bigger than a small 16G...

and of course I don't have a MAF either.

03-23-2007, 12:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
BlackStealth Verified Seller Join Date: Apr 2000 Drives: 93 RT/TT Trader Rating: (146)	-= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- Ultimate Emanage tuning guide (not to be confused with the blue emanage). Purpose: Instructions on how to tune, and provide an organized location for sharing EMU maps. * A WORK IN PROGESS * For Ultimate Emanage installation questions, etc refer to:-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =- Most people rush into installing bigger injectors and EMU but then don't know how to tune it. Like how much timing should I have at xxxx RPMS and xx Boost, or what AFR should I be at this given RPM and Boost. Don't make this mistake. If you still have your stock injectors and stock MAF then it's not too late to go back temporarily and do it right. There are many tuning methods available on the EMU, but I'm only gonna cover a few of them. Tuning Method #1 on non-gutted stock MAF. Hardware requirement: EMU unit EMU main harness Greddy pressure sensor and harness compatible Wideband o2 controller Greddy harness for reading wideband o2 results (0-5V) With stock 360cc injectors and stock MAF installed, we need to record some EMU datalog runs. What were interested in capturing is Boost (PSI), RPMs, Wideband AFRs, and actual timing numbers. Make a few runs in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear. Preferrably you want to capture a datalog run without any knock -- and if this is a problem turn down your boost and try again. Also it is worth mentioning you should get a datalog run with injector duty cycle below 100%. Make note of your current fuel related mods, such as: Stock fuel pump (yes/no): Fuel pump wire rewired(hotwired) (yes/no): Stock Fuel relay low/high voltage bypassed (yes/no): Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator (yes/no): If you have an OBD datalogger take note of the low, mid, high fuel trims as they might be useful sometime for future reference. The more datalog runs you save the better. Even normal cruising ones are good too. Now you're ready to replace the stock injectors with larger injectors. Go ahead and make the hardware changes. Setting up the airflow correction map. Switch from TPS tuning to Boost PSI tuning and set up your custom PSI load scale, such as -12.5 PSI, -10 PSI, -7.5 PSI, -5 PSI, etc. Do not be tempted to use the I/J size before and after, as this confuses people when they run into the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. Yes this makes life easier, but it's also a double edge sword and most people don't understand the consequences so it's better to ignore that feature for now. Use the formula: (stock injector size) / (new injector size) - 1 For example (360/550) - 1 will give you -34% correction. One would think that inputing -34% in all the cells in the airflow correction map should be good enough but it is not. Our stock MAF is not linear, so this is one reason why we need to put more work into the airflow correction map. With -34% populated in every cell and if you did manage to get your car to idle you'll notice it is running very lean. Change the low load cells to -20% and see how that works. Depending on which fuel related mods that have been installed on your car, this -20% will vary greatly. Use the interpolate feature so there's a gradual step from one cell to the next. Now it's time to test your settings, for safety reasons turn down the boost as low as it can go and get all of your tuning done in 1st gear first. If the car starts bucking during WOT then most likely you're too lean at that given RPM and PSI point. Refer back to your original stock 360cc datalog runs to see what AFR you should be running. Here's a sample AFR from stealth316.com to assist you, but there's no PSI load scale to help you out. Now that you have your car running smoothly proceed to 2nd and 3rd gear test runs and verify your tuning is still valid. Once you're satisified, I suggest incrementing the boost and repeat. Eventually you'll run into some knock. First verify the AFR is correct, if its too lean, add some fuel and try again. If the knock does not go away, add some fuel just before the problem cell. If the knock persisits, you may be running too much timing, recall larger injectors increases timing advance. You can refer back to your old stock 360cc injector map to see how much more additional timing your running than normal. At this point you need to create a timing map and set up the scales similar if not the same as your airflow adjustment map. With the timing map created, you can subtract timing at the problem cell, and/or subtract timing just before problem cell. Try subtracting a small amount of timing and repeat until knock goes away. Do some part throttle runs and verify everything is good. See, tuning isn't that hard when you have something to refer to. This fuel map that you created can be readily shared with others. Someone with a different exhaust, turbochargers, intercooler configurations should still be okay as the factory MAF can measure increase or decrease airflow changes, only speed density users need to worry. All fuel related mods (fuel pump upgrade, fuel pump relay bypass, hotwired, aftermarket FPR), and different brand name injectors (lag time) play a larger role between map variations from car to car. 91, or 94 octane level has some WOT variations too. A special note to owners running stage 3 wiring (ie boomslang owners): The EMU can be made completely invisibile with 0% correction in the maps, thus recording stock 360cc datalogs very easy for wiring stages 1 through 2.5. However at stage 3 wiring, I noted that at idle I was running very rich and required attention so it may not be possible for you to record a true stock 360cc datalog. Instead I'd suggest downloading some from this thread when they come available for comparison purposes. Tuning Method #2 Speed density on gutted stock MAF. Before you reach this step, be sure to complete tuning method #1 first as this will allow you to create a perfect airflow output table for your car. Sharing speed density maps are fine, but note they fluctuate more from one car to another because any modifications that influences V.E. directly influences the HZ numbers in the map. Modifications such as exhaust, downpipe, gutted cats, air filters, intercoolers and many more directly influences speed denisty. This also means every time you a make a minor modification you need to recheck your tune as it may need changing. Why go speed density? Turbochargers spoolup much faster (makes a 15G car feel like a 9b car spoolup, well at least thats what it feels like to me). The stock MAF is limited to xxxx HZ or xxxx airflow and the greddy pressure sensor can go alot further. Speed density continues to work if intercooler pipes blow apart, and doesn't mind open blow off valves. Now the hard part, creating an airflow output map for your car. With v2.00 of the emanage software, you can use the data sampling map to assist you. Every cell needs a number, so you need to drive your car under many different RPMS and load conditions. Turning down your boost at different increments will help you find the HZ numbers for each cell. Some cells will be impossible to do as you may never get there ie (20psi at 1000 rpms) and I wouldn't worry too much about those. Just estimate the HZ number from the neighbouring cells. Take a look at the example airflow output number to get a better understanding of what belongs there. To run speed density, toggle the airflow adjustment map to airflow output map. If you did your job right, you should notice no change. The airflow output map should now be emulating your factory MAF HZ signals along with your tune integrated. For example, you don't have to make corrections for larger injectors because you already did this in tuning method #1. Confirm everything is working as it should. Now proceed to gutting your factory MAF. Removing the three honeycomb screens is pretty easy to do, and is reversible should you ever change your mind. Run your car again and make a test drive. You should notice the turbos spool up faster. By removing the honeycomb screens you've made a mod effecting the V.E. so you now have to go back and retune again. When you want a richer condition you need to increase the HZ, and to make a condition leaner you decrease the HZ. Note: If you're having trouble getting a steady idle with large injectors because the HZ value doesn't offer enough resolution, you can add more fuel outside of the ECU's control by using the I/J Adj. Map1 and add fuel directly. Ackowledge a small problem: the barometer inside the stock MAF and the greddy pressure sensor are both compensating for elevation changes. Trevor has reported this is neglicable. Some people (Trevor, Pyun) have gone one step further and to hack the factory MAF and eliminate it from the air intake. Here's some pictures: If you're gonna share your maps, be sure to include every mod you can think of. Last edited by BlackStealth : 03-25-2007 at 01:45 PM.

03-23-2007, 12:08 PM	#2 (permalink)
BlackStealth Verified Seller Join Date: Apr 2000 Drives: 93 RT/TT Trader Rating: (146)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- Tuning Method #3 Speed Density using GM IAT, fixed baro signal. The principles described in Tuning Method #2 is exactly the same except the factory MAF is removed completely. With a fixed baro signal you won't have elevation changes affecting your tune as the greddy pressure sensor already compensates for this. The GM IAT is not a 100% match to the mitsubishi IAT so don't be alarmed if your intake temperature numbers are off. Tuning Method #4 stock MAF + I/J injector sizing correction Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor. This has got to be one of the most interesting tuning features EMU has to offer. Instead of manipulating the airflow signal to the ECU, we manipulate the injectors directly completely bypassing the ECU. What benefits are to this? Stock drivability with stock ignition timing, no hot start issues (if you still have your high fuel pressure solenoid still connected), and the low/high fuel voltage relay will operate at appropriate times. And now the bad, you must keep your input injector duty cycle below 100% at all times. Let's identify the two injector duty cycles that now exist. Input injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from your ECU and into the input of the EMU. Output injector duty cycle - this is the duty cycle out from the EMU and drives your fuel injectors. The EMU allows you to enter injector lag time for more precision. When I tested this feature out it didn't work properly, and there's no harm in just leaving the before and after lag time to zero. I suspect this feature may work if your new injectors are laggier than the stock ones (ie. PTE) but someone else can experiment with this. This feature alone isn't that useful, as you your limited to the same HP as stock 360cc injectors. Don't think for a minute that just because you've installed larger than stock injectors that you can run higher PSI than before. If this feature excites you then look at the Tuning Method #5 on how to proceed further. UPDATE....Personal experiences: Using v2.13 software and the global injector sizing (AKA I/J before and I/J after) alone made my car run idle very lean using (360cc before and 550cc after). I had to richen up the low load end of the map by 20%. I don't know why this was necessary. Tuning Method #5 I/J injector sizing correction + Boost Cut Limiter + I/J Map Hardware requirements: stage 3 wiring and greddy check engine light adaptor. Gray Haze has come up with an interesting tuning method in which I'll describe here. This method improves on Tuning Method #4 and works around the 100% input injector duty cycle problem. This probably is the best tuning technique as you retain stock drivability with no short comings, and no need to monkey with the timing. To combat the 100% input injector duty cycle, you need to determine at which PSI level this occurs. Once this has been determined, set the boost cut limiter feature before 100% occurs, in essence, you want the airflow signal to the ECU capped at a maximum so the ECU will never reach 100% input injector duty cycle. Now that the 100% input injector duty cycle problem has been solved, you need to add fuel by using the I/J fuel map. You have a choice of whether to increase fuel based on injector duty cycle or injector duration. The latter is a better choice. Be sure to setup the I/J fuel map based on Boost (PSI). Update 1: I gave this tuning method a try and was a little frustrated by the fact my v2.13 EMU had trouble subtracting injector duty cycle based on percentages which caused my car to run extremely rich at WOT. In my general tips section I remembered that EMU was known to struggle with injector duty cycle and subtracting injector duration time would be more reliable. I was gonna try the injector duration time method but then realized the amount of work involved. Each cell would have different entry and I don't have any solid datalogs to assist me. I've gone back to my stage 2.5 wiring on my boomslang harness as I'm too lazy to experiment with this tuning method any further. Update 2: I decided to try this one last time. Speed density at stage 3 works fantastic. Now being addicted to how well stage 3 works with speed density I learned a few things. Boost cut limited feature sometimes overshoots and will cause problems if you're trying to keep input injector duty cycle below 100%. The better way is to hard code the max HZ level into your speed density map, such as 1850 HZ. This guarantees no more overshoots. Next I noticed I was getting an intermittent 20ms dropout or glitch of some kind. My input injector reading would momentarily drop to a very low level which becomes a problem at high rpms (feels similar to a fuel cut). I checked and rechecked my wire harness, moved my emanage to a different location, but couldn't get rid of this glitch. I went as far as buying a second emanage ultimate (rev. E) to see if that would make any difference. Sadly, it didn't. After two weeks I decided I'd much rather give up the excellent part throttle drivability & glitchy WOT (stage 3) for okay part throttle drivability and excellent WOT operation (stage 2.5). Don't let my glitch problem deter you from using stage 3, as Gray Haze has setup four vehicles without problems, I just haven't been able to identify why I'm having a problem on my car. When I look back at Update 1, I'm not sure why I was running rich at WOT, but this time around I was using speed density instead of MAF. Last edited by BlackStealth : 11-09-2007 at 10:17 AM.

03-23-2007, 12:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
BlackStealth Verified Seller Join Date: Apr 2000 Drives: 93 RT/TT Trader Rating: (146)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- General Tips Tip #1 Boomslang harnesses immediately take you to stage 3 wiring, so following tuning tips made for stage 1 and stage 2 wiring won't work exactly as described without other things to consider. See the next tip for better understand. Tip #2 (observation). Stage 3 wiring and the greddy CEL adaptor + v2.13 firmware/software caused my car to run lean at low engine loads (360cc I/J before, 550cc I/J after). Experimented using 360cc before and 475cc after made the car run great at low engine loads but then as I approached high engine loads it went rich. Going back to the original 360cc before and 550cc after, I had to richen the I/J map 20% at low engine loads. Tip #3 (observation). Greddy has released many firmware/software upgrades, and it's best to start a fresh new map each time. To save time you can open your old map into the new greddy software and perform a select/copy action and then open your fresh new map and paste your old data into there. If you try and load an old map and export it to your EMU funny things will happen such as your airflow corrections mysteriously won't work thus causing you to run rich. Tip #4 (observation). Temporarily removing the greddy CEL adaptor on my stage 3 setup made my car run very rich at idle / low engine loads. Keep this in mind if you're comparing greddy maps. Speed Density Tuning Tip #1 When converting from stock MAF to speed density, your throttle tip in often will run lean momentarily (18 AFR in my case). This should be addressed first by using your I/J fuel acceleration map and add more fuel (ie. 30 to 40%). If you don't take care of this right away, it will make tuning your speed density more difficult. Speed Density Tuning Tip #2 Don't take the sampling map and copy it verbatim into your speed density map. It can give you a general idea of what kind of numbers you should see, but by no means is it correct. As your RPM increases, your HZ number should increase, as a smooth progression. Likewise, as your load increases (Boost PSI), your HZ number should increase in a smooth manner. Knock sensor setup Must be using firmware v2.00 or higher for this feature to work. Jumper 14: Open Wire the intake temp/knock signal 2 wire for knock reading. On 91-93 cars it's pin 58, and on 94-97 cars it's pin 78. In the software knock setup, select intake temp/knock signal 2 and set frequency to 11.38 khz Resonant type. Non-resonant is more sensitive but also picks up too much noise. Example knock results by tapping engine block with hammer. Last edited by BlackStealth : 12-05-2007 at 08:18 AM.

03-24-2007, 06:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
stuntmeat Verified Seller Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: n. illinois Drives: vr4,trailblazerss,r1 Trader Rating: (22)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- boy i wish there was a thread like this for the blue emanage.

03-25-2007, 04:02 AM	#6 (permalink)
Gray Haze F#&K Race Gas. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Drives: 3S's Since Feb 2002. Trader Rating: (25)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- i'd like to add that you can rescale the 720CC map from -11 to +15 PSI, and this will make the ECU feel that everything on the vehicle is left stock. Then use boost cut limiter, set peak values to those in your 15 PSI row. Then open the I/J Adjust map, and you can compensate that way. By doing this you should not have to retard timing. I will add though that you will need to watch your datalogs and make sure you never hit 100% IDC's... Try to keep it at 95%. as soon as I get my engine back in, and my map set up the rest of hte way, Ill post a fairly heavily modded map. __________________ 1992 3000GT VR-4 #15 of 24. The ORIGINAL Sandstone Gray '99 Conversion. Blown, Stroked, Bottled. And what? www.3stech.org - Now with 100% less invite codes! Free Registration!

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03-25-2007, 05:32 AM	#7 (permalink)
BlackStealth Verified Seller Join Date: Apr 2000 Drives: 93 RT/TT Trader Rating: (146)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- The 720cc denso map isn't mine, but it is a working map nevertheless. Gray Haze your tuning method is certainly interesting and utilize some of the advanced features. You posted in another thread that you use the I/J before and after injector sizing feature and are fully aware that this needs to stay under 100% input injector duty cycle. This gives you stock like timing as the ECU is still getting uncorrected airflow HZ numbers as the correction takes place after the ECU. Knowing that 100% input duty cycle is bad you use the boost cut limiter so the airflow HZ numbers don't increase at the ECU input thus keeping the input duty cycle valid at all times. Now that the ECU is unable to increase duty cycle as boost increases you must use the I/J fuel map and add fuel. I'll add this tuning method to the guide eventually.

03-25-2007, 09:24 AM	#8 (permalink)
TrAb Green Machine Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Athens, Ga Drives: A Ice Cream Truck... Trader Rating: (20)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- Is that the same 720cc map that u sent to me? __________________

03-25-2007, 12:43 PM	#9 (permalink)
BlackStealth Verified Seller Join Date: Apr 2000 Drives: 93 RT/TT Trader Rating: (146)	Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Tuning Thread =- TrAb: Yes, it's the same one. How about sharing yours now that's it been tuned?