-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-

[Hannibalzero]

Originally Posted by VR4neophyte

FAQ Time!

There are many more people joining the eManage Ultimate family of users, and that is awesome. It is a great a/f controller, and gives you the features most people want. I’ve had mine since January, and I want to offer you some clear advice about the EMU. This could be long, but here are some questions that keep coming up, and I want to give you guys the best answers I can.

“Do I really need the injector adapter?” Yes, you really do, and they can be hard to get, so order it plenty early. If you don’t use the adapter, your car will run rich, and you’ll get a CEL. The Boomslang harness WILL NOT fix the problem. The injector adapter is just as necessary as the EMU itself if you are doing the injector wiring. If you don’t do the injector wiring, you won’t need the adapter.

“Which options should I get on the Boomslang?” Water and Air Temp. I gave my opinion on this several posts ago, so I’ll be brief here… Your choices are 2 of the following three: water temp, intake air temp, and knock. With water and intake temp, the EMU can collect this information, log it, and use it in making fuel injection decisions. Choosing water temp also enables the A/F Target feature that automatically tunes your AFR to whatever target you set in open-loop. I have not yet found any use for the knock connection on the EMU. I see no ability to log knock, or any logic that allows the EMU to take action based on knock. Maybe that’s coming in the future, but right now it seems useless to connect the knock sensor input to EMU.

“How do I adjust fuel for my bigger injectors? EMU has several ways. You need to know about each of them, so I’m going to explain here and then tell you what I did. You can:

1) Use global injector sizing on the I/J tab of the Parameter Setting window. Tell it your BEFORE and AFTER injector sizes (and lag time differences), and you’re off and running.

2) Use the airflow adjustment map enabling EMU to reduce the injector pulse width by a percentage you enter. This is just like entering values into an S-AFC. The airflow signal comes from the stock airflow meter, into the EMU for adjustment, then is fed into the ECU.

3) Use the injector adjustment map enabling the EMU to reduce the injector pulse width directly. The ECU is unaware this is happening.

4) Use the airflow output map (speed density), enabling the EMU (and you) to feed the ECU your airflow Hz signals directly.

When I first started with EMU, I used (2) and (3), and it was complicated. Then on Blackstealth’s good advice, I used only (2). Why? It is soooo much simpler to do all of your adjustments in one place until you have a strong understanding of what is happening. On speed density right now, I use (4) as my primary fuel adjustment, and (3) as a secondary fuel adjustment. But my goal is to only use (4), and I know it will take some time to get there.

There are trade-offs to using each of the options. Know those trade-offs before going that way.

“Can I use the stock airflow meter? Yes.” This is the easiest setup of all with the EMU.

“Can I use another MAS like the LS1/LS6/MAFT or the ARC2/Ford MAS?” Yes, but why?” It would require making 100% sure the MAFT or ARC2 is tuned perfectly with a stock setup first (360cc injectors). Plus, I personally don’t like the complexity of ‘stacking’ piggybacks. If you want a huge high-capacity intake, just eliminate the MAS and save yourself some money.

“Can I remove the stock airflow meter and go without a MAS?” Yes. That’s EMU’s speed density setup, and it works great. It controls the injectors by RPM and boost level rather than measuring mass airflow. But this is probably the most complicated setup of all because you have to create a 256-cell fuel map. This map can lead to 1) a well-running car or 2) a blown engine. You REALLY have to know what you’re doing, and if you don’t, DON’T GO HERE unless you’re ready for door #2.

“I’m going Speed Density. Can’t I just save myself a bunch of time by copying and starting with someone else’s fuel map?” No. I know it sounds like it makes sense, but it doesn’t. Why? All cars are different. That’s not just some excuse people give so they don’t have to share their maps - it is really true. Your engine’s airflow is unique to your particular setup. And a difference of 2 Hz can be the difference between running an AFR that is perfect or too lean/rich. And you need to create accurate entries for your car for each of 256 cells in the airflow output map. My intake pipes, my turbo spool characteristics, my intercooler, my throttle body, plenum, heads, pistons, cam gear settings, exhaust setup, ignition setup, intake temps, altitude, and fuel octane makes a difference. Even if you had exactly the same parts, my values would have to be adjusted for your car based on installation differences.

I can hear many of you saying right now that you want to start with Trevor’s maps. He has alcohol injection, a Viper vented hood, an FMIC, twin oil coolers, and uses Delco Rochester injectors. He has MHI E16g turbos. If your car isn’t like that, you’ll have to adjust the cells. How about Blackstealth’s maps? At least one of those maps was based on Trevor’s map, adjusted to remove alcohol and to resize injectors. I am not sure if Blackstealth has ever tested that map on his car. But I guarantee it would require adjustment of most of the cells.

So in my opinion, it save you NO time to start with someone else’s map. It sounds like it would save time, but it doesn’t because every car is different. Don’t cut corners. Follow the advice in Post #4 if you want to go speed density, and build a map that is tailored to YOUR mods and YOUR car.

Guys, I am happy to see so many people going this way. Let’s keep the discussion going.

Can the thread starter please post this in on the first page somewhere? Mucho Gracias!

[GTO68]

Ouuuuarrrfff!!! Very thank's for this faq!!

all become easy

I received the E-manage Ultimate Air/Fuel input Harness and the Innovate LC-1 Digital Wideband Controller with Sensor.

I have a lquestion about the wire. On the A/F input harness, i have 2 wires (white and gray) and on the LC-A wideband, i have 7 wires (Blue, red, green, black, white, yellow and brown)

here description:

Originally Posted by innovate LC-1

A. Interface and power cables with 7 stripped ends*:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Green Analog Ground
g. Black Calibration wire

B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.

* 3.1 If you have an LC-1 with only 6 stripped ends (early production) the wiring is as follows:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. Metallic System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire

If i understand, i need to connect:

LC-1 Yellow to the white Air/Fuel input Harness
LC-1 Green to the gray Air/Fuel input Harness

Is it correct? Must I connect of another cables from the LC-1?

I always have my aem wideband connected on my race-pipe and i would like to know if i can to keep on the exhaust and add the LC-1 too (of course on the the another o2 Sensor bung) ?

Thank's

Saphir

[Jason_99ozGS]

Originally Posted by GTO68

Ouuuuarrrfff!!! Very thank's for this faq!!

all become easy

I received the E-manage Ultimate Air/Fuel input Harness and the Innovate LC-1 Digital Wideband Controller with Sensor.

I have a lquestion about the wire. On the A/F input harness, i have 2 wires (white and gray) and on the LC-A wideband, i have 7 wires (Blue, red, green, black, white, yellow and brown)

here description:



If i understand, i need to connect:

LC-1 Yellow to the white Air/Fuel input Harness
LC-1 Green to the gray Air/Fuel input Harness

Is it correct? Must I connect of another cables from the LC-1?

I always have my aem wideband connected on my race-pipe and i would like to know if i can to keep on the exhaust and add the LC-1 too (of course on the the another o2 Sensor bung) ?

Thank's

Saphir

Yup that's right. Then all you need to do is open up the LM Programmer software and setup the right settings for "Analog Out 1" Someone in this thread posted instructions on the right values to enter into the software.

[kanabrewski]

how bout a step by step with screen shots. or a generic how to .... like the tabs on the car config screen etc? if we want more to use it then we've got to simplify it. IMHO

[GTO68]

Hi all,

I have an other question:

Follow Tip #6 for setting up the software too. Keep in mind, the AEM wideband is not linear, so the raw numbers you get will have to be adjusted with a conversion chart for a proper AFR. I'd suggest selling the AEM and go for the linear innovative LC1 since they go for around $189.

Roger G. say that is possible to put the WB02 AEM on the option 2 of the EMU!!!!!

Saphir

[VR4neophyte]

Originally Posted by kanabrewski

how bout a step by step with screen shots. or a generic how to .... like the tabs on the car config screen etc? if we want more to use it then we've got to simplify it. IMHO

See post #58 for step by step instructions including screen shots of setting up the LM-1 WBO2 with the EMU.

[VR4neophyte]

While researching a problem for another member, I found something very interesting in the service manual regarding the barometric pressure sensor and the intake air temperature sensor, and it may make it easier for those headed for speed density on the EMU.

Apparently, if the baro or IAT sensor fails to provide a voltage reading within a certain range to the ECU, the ECU will go into 'Limp-in' or backup mode. For the baro sensor, that means... "Controls provided on the assumption that barometric pressure is 101 kPa (760mmHg) (sea level)." For the IAT sensor, that means... "Controls provided on the assumption that intake air temperature is 25*C (77*F).

All this time, I was worried about making resistors in the baro circuit to try to approximate exactly 4 volts, and ultimately settled for something close. In reality, all I'd have to do is disconnect it to get the ECU to go into 'Limp-In' mode to get the effect I was seeking. I may try this.

I haven't decided how I want to handle IAT yet, but I may disconnect the GM IAT sensor as well since I don't like the way the ECU adjusts fuel for IAT. Of course, the EMU allows adjustment for IAT as well.

[306GTO]

Originally Posted by VR4neophyte

In reality, all I'd have to do is disconnect it to get the ECU to go into 'Limp-In' mode to get the effect I was seeking. I may try this.

$10 says you get a CEL if you do. Same for the IAT.

[VR4neophyte]

Guaranteed, since that's the section of the service manual I was looking at.

[Roger G.]

Originally Posted by GTO68

Hi all,

I have an other question:

Roger G. say that is possible to put the WB02 AEM on the option 2 of the EMU!!!!!

Saphir

Of course there must be more information provided than just what I "said".

The AEM UEGO A/F is configurable so it can simulate a standard O2 sensor with a hysteresis or 3 other linear modes on the analog output. It also has a serial output for an RS232 interface but who's gonna use that anyways Mode 1 and 2 are both linear 0-5V from A/F 10.0:1 (0V) to 20.0:1 (5V) what can be seen in the MAP provided in the installation manual of the AEM UEGO gauge kit. The graph below is from the older version as the newest manual shows the full scale. Mode 1 btw. is the standard so you don't have to fiddle around with that as it is what we want.



It's gonna be connected to the eManage like all the others to one of the option ports are as the white wire is the output and black is GND (as usual)

Therefore, all posts in this thread that say the AEM is not linear are wrong and shall be changed to avoid confusion and worthless discussions.

Size and ease of use are perfect on this gauge. A logger like the inovate has would be nice although the bulky size and lack of visibility of the LC-1 is not worth to use it. And since the eManage can log A/F as well the AEM is a good and small solution IMHO.