Valmes, I'm not sure what you're looking for, but try calling them during normal business hours instead. They have tech support people on duty all day.
That would be a great idea, but I'm not in US... and sending e-mails at info@greddy.com seems to be a waste of time. Also my car is a different breed of VR-4 which was not sold in US. Only in Japan, UK and NZ.
Btw what's the phone number for the tech support?
Anyone knows how to contact Greddy/Trust Japan?
That would be a great idea, but I'm not in US... and sending e-mails at info@greddy.com seems to be a waste of time. Also my car is a different breed of VR-4 which was not sold in US. Only in Japan, UK and NZ.
Btw what's the phone number for the tech support?
Anyone knows how to contact Greddy/Trust Japan?
I hear you about not being in the US, but since you have access to the internet, I'll assume you also have access to international dialing. I travel internationally all the time and regularly call US numbers without difficulty.
In my experience, Greddy email response time is about a week. When you call, you speak with someone immediately.
Ahh. I need help again. I'm getting frigging 9mpg currently...and my damn downpipe that ips sent me doesnt fit for whatever reason, so its gonna be at least a week as far as I can figure to get my wbo2 in. Is there absolutely anything I can do to get better gas mileage...and not blow my damn engine (other than not driving it )? All I have for viewing my a/f ratio is my apexi turbo timer, which I know, its a piece of shit.
well, if you had a datalogger, you could watch the fuel trims and the 02 voltages, and that would give you a little help. But a wideband really is needed to do good tuning.
9 mpg in town or highway? Cause on the way down to iowa, all highway, with the maft installed I was averaging 21-22 and thats with 650cc injectors
I can watch the o2 voltages, not very well though. I'm averaging like 9mpg...which definitely sucks. I've always got horrible gas mileage though. I got 15mpg max on 9b's...and I dont drive nuts, I drive like a damn granny most of the time. I tested it out tonight, and its definitely hauling ass...max .68kg/cm2 is what I hit. I had a modified 350z tonight that wanted one...i was tempted to give her some more boost and really smoke his ass. I took it easy though.
One of my posts in this thread was lost during a recent 3si migration, and it is a good thing, because that post provided incorrect information relative to enabling your EMU to monitor coolant temp. Here is the correct information.
The first thing you must do is make the right wiring harness connections (or order the Boomslang harness with the Water Temp option.) On my first gen, I needed to tap into ECU pin 63 and connect it to EMU pin 32 (see page 49 in the EMU installation manual.) This provides the EMU with access to the coolant sensor voltage. Before making this connection, I used my VOM to monitor sensor voltage and build a table to associate sensor voltage with temperatures reported by the Pocketlogger.
The second thing you must do is ensure your jumpers are set appropriately in the EMU. This is important, because this is where I was wrong last time. The factory setting for JP13 is OPEN, and that is the correct setting. (See page 44.) Unfortunately, on page 46, the manual says you should set the jumper to "1-2" for temp sensor. That did not work for me at all.
The third thing you must do is set things up in the EMU software. Refer to page 76 in the Operation Manual. In your car profile definitions, click on the tab called CH Setting. Check the box for Water Temp, and select the sensor type for our cars (MT_WT-1).
That's it! Not only can you now log coolant temps, but that enables you to use features like the A/F Target Map.
I'm attempting to get to the bottom of a mismatch I've discovered. In the post above, I described building a table that associates coolant sensor voltages with temperatures reported by my Pocketlogger. It looks something like this with temps in F* and voltage...
168 0.7
175 0.65
182 0.6
187 0.55
192 0.525
When the same voltages are logged by the EMU, it shows temps in Celsius, but after converting to Farenheit, the temps don't match. For instance at .55v, the Pocketlogger says 187*F/86*C, but the EMU logger reports 92*C. Over the range of normal operating temps, they are off as far as 10*F.
I'm concluding this means the EMU logger translation table is inaccurate. The problem could be the Pocketlogger or my digital VOM, but I don't think so since the Pocketlogger has provided information that is always consistent with the service manual. The VOM tests accurately as well.
This reminds me a bit of using the GM IAT: it measures a few degrees higher than the stock IAT, and that starts to lean out the fuel sooner. As long as you know that, it should be managable.
Im really excited to be officially joining this thread soon. Just got the EMU and plan to do Boomslang's harness for ease of install and removal. Im really new to tuning, is there any books other than the owner's manuals to help me get started? Im planning on keeping the stock MAF for now and will be using the 13T's with EVO 560cc's and the supra pump. Just want to start getting the learning curve rolling so I'll have a good understanding by the time I install it.
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Hi my name's Nate and I've been addicted to boost for four years now...
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Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-
)? All I have for viewing my a/f ratio is my apexi turbo timer, which I know, its a piece of shit. 
Just got the EMU and plan to do Boomslang's harness for ease of install and removal. Im really new to tuning, is there any books other than the owner's manuals to help me get started? Im planning on keeping the stock MAF for now and will be using the 13T's with EVO 560cc's and the supra pump. Just want to start getting the learning curve rolling so I'll have a good understanding by the time I install it. 
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