OK, I have all my wiring pulled and tagged for Stage 2 installation. (Stage 3 is tagged and prepped, but I can't see how that's necessary for me at this point)
I'm ready to clip the ECU harness, make the connections and hope I didn't misunderstand anything.
However, My emanage was previously installed in another members car, and I have no idea how it is setup, nor do I have ANY experience with Greddy Products.
What do I do to ensure that the EMU is not doing ANYTHING? In otherwords, I want it wired in, but that's all for tonight. I DON"T want to hook everything up, and have an inoperable vehicle sitting in my garage...
well, when my car blew, I was using the stock rev limit and was using the RPM input for an rpm signal, but updates have been released since then. The last car I tuned I set the max RPM at 8000 (SL with turbo kit), staging rev limit was 3500, shift up rev limit was 4800 (the owner usually shifts pretty early, so no need to have that limit set high), and no timing retard (it was just better that way with this application). I reccomend using the ignition signal for an RPM input. the values are always clean and consistent. I haven't tried running individual coils with the car, but I will set it up with that feature once I get my car back in one piece. I have more information on rev limit removal if you would like that also.
Thanks.
Your blown engine had nothing to do with the emanage, right?
Are you saying that would be a good setting for a normal 8:1 TT?
say for a TT with 6XX AWHP and a good set of sticky tires?
I want to build boost on the line.
I would deffinatly like more info on your rev limit removal!
KnTStealth93: In the emanage software, open parameter settings and click on the front panel tab, in there it will tell you which is option port your greddy boost sensor should be plugged into. The four dip switches do nothing on mine, as mine is configured for "Not used". Attach your map so we can look at it, so we can determine if your using speed density or not, etc. If you are using speed density and installed the map sensor incorrectly then this would explain your problems. Did you install your map sensor in a location where it can read boost and vacuum?
Thanks.
Your blown engine had nothing to do with the emanage, right?
Are you saying that would be a good setting for a normal 8:1 TT?
say for a TT with 6XX AWHP and a good set of sticky tires?
I want to build boost on the line.
I would deffinatly like more info on your rev limit removal!
Yeah, blown engine wasn't EMU related. I was actually running 11.5 to 1 A/F with 0 knock when it happened shifting at 7K. Stock rods don't work very well at 35 psi. things go boom . to build boost off the line, you need to be at an RPM that you would usually have boost at (i.e. if you start making boost at 4000, setting your 2 step up at 3500 will probably not get you boost off of the line.). When you pick the rpm you want to launch at, start pulling timing out at the limiter gradually until you get the car to build the correct ammount of boost (the more timing you pull the more bangs, pops, and fires you will get from your tailpipe while staging.).
The best RPM to set your shift up point to be is the rpm that your car will fall to when you shift into your highest gear while racing (i.e. if you only take your car up to 4'th gear when racing, and shifting from 3rd at 7500 to 4'th makes the rpms drop to 5800, then you would want this rpm to be 5800........again, these values are all hypothetical. it depends on what gear you are setting up for and how high you rev). It will take a bit of experimentation because for the staging limit, you don't want the rpm and boost so high that you blaze the tires up at the launch, but you want to be in boost if at all possible to keep from having to fight spool-up. If your boost falls about during shifting, try retarding timing at the shift up limiter also to keep boost pressure up. I haven't had a lot of time to experiment with that, but it works off of the same principle (extra heat, fire and slight combustion getting to the turbine, making it more efficient, and producing boost).
to raise the rev limiter, you have to actually hit the rev limiter a few times at a few different boost levels to see what IDC the car is doing at those boost levels, and where the limiter "acutally" starts (stock ecu starts pulsing one bank, THEN both banks to bring the limiter in gradually, but I posted about that earlier) To figure out what the IDC should be at the new limit you set, just use a little math to linearly plot what the injector flow rate would be based on the flow at slightly lower RPM (i.e. if your injectors are at 50% IDC at 7000 and they are at 48% at 6000, then putting 52% at 8000 in the limiter plot is a safe bet that the car will run). then once you have all those filled in, you continue to tune as usual. This kind of thing I don't mind givnig a play by play for because it technically IS difficult and not intuitive at all..........I only figured it out after my car was down and was working on other's cars that needed the extra range :-P
It can be pretty confusing, but it all requires trial and error to set up the EMU for your driving style/environment.
the nipple left behind after the clutch vac tank removal. -the one on the back (firewall) side of the upper plenum just after the throttle body, I uncapped that, teflon taped the greddy sensor and installed
"ONLINE, COMMUNICATE WITH EMANAGE IN REAL TIME
OK CANCEL"
Keeps popping up constantly...
There's nothing in any of the boxes when I click through the items in PARAMETERS
So I'm relatively certain that when it first went through a status bar indicating "communication" with the main unit, it either A, failed to communicate, or B, encountered no applicable saved settings
Tried two different Brand new USB's, same thing...
Although at startup, it does communicate enough to have parameters now, I just have to disconnect the USB to make it stop popping up the continuous "prompt"
The interaction light is steady, until you click either "OK" or "CANCEL" then there's only about a second -second and a half before the prompt pops back up.
The pressure sensor is assigned to option2 port. Aaron had his AEM WB assigned to port1. I selected "none" for option1 and then "apply" when I reconnected the USB, same routine started again
The dip switches were all "on"
under parameters, it indicates that dip switches 2,3 and 4 are not used, and switch 1 was left blank. I've tried switching 2,3 and4 off; and 1,2,3 and 4 off, but no difference than when all are on as it was when I first began...
What are the reasons for this communication problem
I have the DR's appointment changed to 1pm, so I have a little more time to get this going. I sincerely appreciate your help, Blackstealth. You definitely have a coupon on me
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Re: -= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-
. to build boost off the line, you need to be at an RPM that you would usually have boost at (i.e. if you start making boost at 4000, setting your 2 step up at 3500 will probably not get you boost off of the line.). When you pick the rpm you want to launch at, start pulling timing out at the limiter gradually until you get the car to build the correct ammount of boost (the more timing you pull the more bangs, pops, and fires you will get from your tailpipe while staging.). 
