-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-

[Fourdoor]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Serial output is completely different from an analog 0-5Volt output, and it's the latter what you need to hook up to the EMU.

Also, remember that the AEM wide band is NOT linear in response.... can the EMU compensate for the non-linear response curve?

Keith

[Man]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Serial output is completely different from an analog 0-5Volt output, and it's the latter what you need to hook up to the EMU.

What does this mean?

[Man]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

I decided to look into this further. The switch in the front panel I was referring to earlier was the "remote switch" with the stereo type plug. Quickly browsing through the greddy software, it seems this remote switch can be configured for the internal datalogger. I mistakenly thought it could also be configured for your application (launch control).

In the launch control software section it allows you to choose between 3 switches. Switch (at the option port), Switch1, Switch2. To my surprise, I don't know why greddy didn't include the fourth switch (remote) to make things easier.

I see three possible solutions.

Option A: Define switch 1 (a dip switch located on your front panel) as not configured in the front panel configuration screen. Solder two wires where your existing dip switch 1 exists and attach it your clutch switch. And in your ignition cut settings menu, define "Switch Select" as switch 1.

Option B: The serial input allows AIR/FUEL input, and in return allows you to free up a port. I'm not sure what specific equipment is supposed to be used here. Greddy?

Option C: Contact Greddy and tell them to include the "remote switch" as another trigger option. Not sure if they'll listen to their customer.

At this point, I'd go with option A.

This was my goal, but I guess ill go with option A.

[BlackStealth]

Man: The greddy serial port (phono style plug) is used for communicating with the greddy EGT and not with an AEM wideband serial port. And as fourdour said earlier some AEM wideband o2 controllers are not linear so that's something you need to check too.

[Racer_X]

Originally Posted by Elina75

I really don't know. It's very obvious that when using rpm-signal for rpm detection, the launch control ignition cut will flood the engine badly. It just chokes. How it exactly executes the ignition cut, I don't know.

To me it seems that when using the crank angle signal, it cuts the ignition differently, perhaps the crank angle signal itself, when fuel is cut by the ecu automatically as well (if you try to crank the engine crank sensor detached, ecu automatically cuts the fuel delivery, that's the easiest way to relieve fuel pressure if you need to).

Just reviewing some old stuff, and I know why this happens. When you use the RPM signal to work the e-manage, that gets an rpm signal from the PTU. When you use 2 step, the e-manage starts dropping random coil signals to stabilize the rpm. This freaks out the ptu, or MSD (like I use) into thinking the rpm you are at is different that what it really is (because of the dropped triggers). That in turn throws off your E-manage fuel map at that spot, and your tach and whatever else the ecu bases off of that signal (I don't think it bases much off of that signal). but either way, loss of accurate RPM signal form the PTU, loss of proper fuel control, then you get the "non functioning 2 step". To remedy the problem, you will probably need to add a seperate crank based trigger for the rpm signal to have both a clean RPM signal and e-manage 2-step function. I just thought of this, so I figured I would share.

[Man]

I soldered 2 wires into the board on the emanage on the dip switch #1. Do I splice a wire into each of the wires attatched to the cluch switch now?

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by Man

I soldered 2 wires into the board on the emanage on the dip switch #1. Do I splice a wire into each of the wires attatched to the cluch switch now?

Have you checked if the latest software still requires this? Many things have changed since this thread was created.

Also you should avoid mixing the EMU electrical circuit with the car's electrical circuit. You should keep the switch electrically independent.

[Racer_X]

I just got an Injector adapter and now I know why my "clone" adapter didn't work before. The adapter isn't 6 inducters and 6 resistors.....it's 6 inductors, 12 resistors, and 6 diodes. Since it is semi-impossible to find these things, I will make a little "how to make your own injector adapter" post. here goes.

you will need:

6 1N4002 Diodes ( 5 cents each at Mouser.com part number 821-1N4002)
6 51 Ohm Resistors (I reccomend the 3W flameproof ones from mouser part number 71-CPF3-F-51-E3 at 63 cents each)
6 3.3K ohm resistors (9 cents each at mouser.com part number 271-3.3K-RC)
6 22mH Inductors ($1.81 each at Mouser.com part number 807-4590-226K)

now, the diodes are the only things that are polarized (they have an IN and an OUT). every thing else doesn't matter. solder the 6 Inductors together to 1 point. Then run a wire from that point. That will go to your 12V ignition on power source in the car).

now, after every inductor, solder in a 51 ohm resistor.

now after that, solder in PARALLEL the 3.3K ohm resistor and the 1N4002 Diode together. The cathode of the diode is the side with the silver stripe. The anode is the side without the silver stripe. This is IMPORTANT.

Now solder the ANODE side of your resistor/diode combo to the 51 ohm resistor in your circuit.

The CATHODE side of your diode/resistor combos connect to the INJECTOR LEAD WIRES between the E-manage and the ECU.

This is how you make your own injector adapter any time you want (without having to wait on Trust Japan to grind out more) and this will cost you a whopping $15.50 (plus tax and shipping of course), and that's if you make it really nice. you could probably get away with using cheaper materials, but why not use good stuff. This WILL replicate the Injector adapter, and will solve the "oh they ar enever in stock" problem. Good luck

[BlackStealth]

Racer_X: Looks to me Greddy has improved the original design. Maybe I'll give this another try since my car didn't agree with it before.

Our stock ECU would normally see approx 1 amp current draw when energizing real fuel injectors. The old greddy CEL adaptor would supply less than 4mA and this didn't always fool my ECU. I observed that a low battery voltage tend to trigger the CEL code always, and this low battery voltage made the greddy CEL adaptor send even less current. This made me think perhaps the stock ECU wanted to see more current in order to be satisifed.

Now with the newer greddy CEL adaptor I've calculated that it sends in approx 164mA. The extra current is good news, but I'm afraid they're now over working the inductor as it has a current rating of (190mA or 120mA depending on which current maximum applies in their specs).

I've studied this new design carefully and I see no clear reason why they designed it the way they did. They could have simply used their original design and replaced the resistor with a smaller resistor. Initially I thought they perhaps were using the diode as a free wheeling diode to safely discharge the inductor when the circuit gets turned off but it's not.

Any other Electrical Engineers in the house?

[gtr35]

Racer_X, could you draw up a simple wiring diagram? To an EE it might seem obvious, but I don't trust myself with something this critical. Thanks.