-= Ultimate Emanage Thread =-

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by VR4neophyte

That seems to say you can't do both Speed Density and Launch Control... is that right?

The external switch for your launch control doesn't use the same port as speed density. The external switch uses a stereo like plug on the ultimate.

[VR4neophyte]

Look in the operation manual on page 15. It says option 1 and option 2 are selected from the pull down menu items. There are 6 items: Greddy Pressure Sensor, Greddy Temp Sensor, A/F Sensor, Multi Switching System, External Switch, Factory Pressure Sensor. Under External Switch, it says "Switch can be used to start and stop the data logger or for the ignition cut for launch control."

Then refer to page 19, Ignition Cut Feature. In the description for the Switch Select drop-down box, it says "Select the switch used to activate the "Shift Up" ign cut. The switch must be configured in the "Front Panel" and connected to the Option 1 or 2 Port..."

What's your take on this? To me it sounds like you have to use one of Option 1 or 2 to do this.

[BlackStealth]

I decided to look into this further. The switch in the front panel I was referring to earlier was the "remote switch" with the stereo type plug. Quickly browsing through the greddy software, it seems this remote switch can be configured for the internal datalogger. I mistakenly thought it could also be configured for your application (launch control).

In the launch control software section it allows you to choose between 3 switches. Switch (at the option port), Switch1, Switch2. To my surprise, I don't know why greddy didn't include the fourth switch (remote) to make things easier.

I see three possible solutions.

Option A: Define switch 1 (a dip switch located on your front panel) as not configured in the front panel configuration screen. Solder two wires where your existing dip switch 1 exists and attach it your clutch switch. And in your ignition cut settings menu, define "Switch Select" as switch 1.

Option B: The serial input allows AIR/FUEL input, and in return allows you to free up a port. I'm not sure what specific equipment is supposed to be used here. Greddy?

Option C: Contact Greddy and tell them to include the "remote switch" as another trigger option. Not sure if they'll listen to their customer.

At this point, I'd go with option A.

[VR4 Henry]

Dumb question, but a quick one....
Does timing not show up realtime or did I do something wrong.... I did the stage2 wiring. I haven't tried to pull timing and then check the datalogger (like i read you were supposed to in the blue emanage)

Thanks,
Henry

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by VR4 Henry

Does timing not show up realtime or did I do something wrong.... I did the stage2 wiring. I haven't tried to pull timing and then check the datalogger (like i read you were supposed to in the blue emanage)

Stage 2 wiring alone does not show you actual timing on the emanage datalogger. There's one more wire you need to hook up before you can read actual timing.

[VR4 Henry]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Stage 2 wiring alone does not show you actual timing on the emanage datalogger. There's one more wire you need to hook up before you can read actual timing.

one day I'll actually read instructions 100% before I try to do something.

Thanks again,
Henry

edit: I can't find the info on the extra wire. Am I just retarded??

[Racer_X]

from reading the instructions on page 19, it looks like you will still have "launch control" without an external switch as long as you have an electric speedo signal. you will not have "shift up" rev limit without a switch (i.e. while accelerating/drag racing, if you don't like to lift the throttle when shifting, the shift up rev limit will keep your revs from going to high while shifting). as long as you have an electric speedo signal, you should be able to haev a "staging" rev limit which is seperate from the "shift up" rev limit.

[VR4neophyte]

Good catch.

[VR4neophyte]

Originally Posted by marium_3kgt

Mounted it temporarily(waiting on PPE FMIC Pipes) on the stock Y-pipe next to the plenum harness.

Nice job. Another source for the GM IAT is www.fullthrottlespeed.com. They have it priced around $12, although I'm not sure what they demand for shipping. (EDIT: they demand about $13 for shipping as of today, so this may not be the best way to go.)

I've been obsessing about the temp and baro signal thing, and its interesting that the stock sensors are mounted in the stock airflow meter, even though a much more accurate temp reading would be sampled from the Y-Pipe or even the plenum. The architects must have assumed this temperature inaccuracy when they wrote the ECU firmware.

The best temp readings would come from mounting the GM IAT sensor in the Y-pipe or plenum. The best baro readings would come from using a real BAP sensor, not a resistor. Once a good map is established, why not remove the stock airflow meter from the intake (run mafless), but secure the airflow meter nearby, leaving it connected. Then rewire the airflow meter harness to pick up temp from the GM IAT, and continue to read barometric pressure from the stock baro sensor. I could then disconnect the wires that report airflow hz.

Has anyone tried this?

Erik

[kershalt]

Originally Posted by marium_3kgt

I ordered mine for only $21 from DIY Auto Tune.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/o...9a75ea5e1ac9c6

Mounted it temporarily(waiting on PPE FMIC Pipes) on the stock Y-pipe next to the plenum harness. Pics below:





Also, I used a 3/8-18 NPT Tap for the IAT Sensor.

How exactly did you mount the sensor after you tapped the Y-pipe? Did you just epoxy it up or something else?