---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by Quick Vr4

Turbobob: my maft-pro is retarded. It occasionally gets these weid quick up,down,up,down fluctuation of the airflow signal. The airflow wires are soldered in and it has a good connection. It happens under light throttle usually. This quick fluctuation of the airflow signal then casues the pulsewidth and timing to do similar things. Any ideas?

send me a logfile showing it, look at the TPS and MAP signals. Check the response and MAP enrichment traces as well. The glitchy airflow signal is coming from somewhere.

set the TPS enrichment and MAP enrichment to zero (one then the other and see if that fixes it...

Make sure your harnesses are plugged in firmly

Bob

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by flyman1981

Im having problem using the boost controller. I only get ~13psi. I believe this is wastegate pressure on my tial external wastegates. Im thinking the vacuum lines aren't hooked up right. IM trying to run around 24psi. What do you think would be good settings for the gain, psi start, and DC%, etc. Do you have a quick vac diagram for the boost controller to the wastegates?

Otherwise, im very pleased with the MAFT PRO. Great Job!

Thanks,
Brian

you want to run from the Y pipe nipple to the solenoid, and then from the solenoid to the pressure ports on both wastegates.

In the attached file there is a picture of the solenoid. The "to turbo" nipple would go to the Y pipe, the "to wastegate" nipple would go to the both wastegates.


Set the settings as follows.
TPS spool 1.500
rpm spool 2500
tps start 3.500
psi start 12.0
DC % start 50.0
PSI set 24
gain 10

give it a shot

[Maximal]

Having some issues with mine. Have it running AFC mode on a non-turbo.

I installed it last Sunday and despite some minor problems (just with settings) it seemed to run fine. Got a chance to tune it Friday and I forgot to download the bin from the tuner and adjust that...I just changed the settings in the software so when I uploaded it the settings were back to default. Figured that out and put all the settings I had before according the instructions but the car wouldn't idle.

Messed around for a while and finally changed the main scale setting (I think that's what it's called...adjusts the whole range) to -27% to get it to idle (the LM-1 said 10-11 A/F when it wasn't idling before)...I have stock injectors.

Went out to tune it some more and everything seemed fine except I had to richen it way up (to the max at some points). I have the Turbobob ECU so it runs a little leaner than normal but still thought that was a little excessive. Wanted to get it to the track so I was just happy to get a decent tune in. I was having an issue with it cutting out occasionally around 7000-7500 though.

Went home, washed the car, and put the side panels back on the center console. Started it up to put it away and it wouldn't idle again. Messed with the main scale setting again and it didn't seem to help (probably could have spent more time on it but I was frustrated and didn't really want to deal with it).

So yeah...anyone know the problem? All the connections seem to be good (checked them when I was first having issues) but is there a specific connection I should look at again. I just don't see how this thing can have that big of an affect on the car.

Also, hooked the LM-1 up to it and for some reason it reads a constant 10. Anyone know what would cause that? I have the output cable (stereo connector on one end, 3 wires on the other) hooked up to the purple and orange wires on the 10 pin connector just like the instructions said. I assumed the bare wire on the LM-1 cable was ground and the other two were both signals..I used the red one.

Sorry for the long post, any help is appreciated.

Terry

[lord sargent]

can somebody send me the correct ads and xdf files?

[Rustang Cobra]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

Having some issues with mine. Have it running AFC mode on a non-turbo.

I installed it last Sunday and despite some minor problems (just with settings) it seemed to run fine. Got a chance to tune it Friday and I forgot to download the bin from the tuner and adjust that...I just changed the settings in the software so when I uploaded it the settings were back to default. Figured that out and put all the settings I had before according the instructions but the car wouldn't idle.

Messed around for a while and finally changed the main scale setting (I think that's what it's called...adjusts the whole range) to -27% to get it to idle (the LM-1 said 10-11 A/F when it wasn't idling before)...I have stock injectors.

Went out to tune it some more and everything seemed fine except I had to richen it way up (to the max at some points). I have the Turbobob ECU so it runs a little leaner than normal but still thought that was a little excessive. Wanted to get it to the track so I was just happy to get a decent tune in. I was having an issue with it cutting out occasionally around 7000-7500 though.

Went home, washed the car, and put the side panels back on the center console. Started it up to put it away and it wouldn't idle again. Messed with the main scale setting again and it didn't seem to help (probably could have spent more time on it but I was frustrated and didn't really want to deal with it).

So yeah...anyone know the problem? All the connections seem to be good (checked them when I was first having issues) but is there a specific connection I should look at again. I just don't see how this thing can have that big of an affect on the car.

Also, hooked the LM-1 up to it and for some reason it reads a constant 10. Anyone know what would cause that? I have the output cable (stereo connector on one end, 3 wires on the other) hooked up to the purple and orange wires on the 10 pin connector just like the instructions said. I assumed the bare wire on the LM-1 cable was ground and the other two were both signals..I used the red one.

Sorry for the long post, any help is appreciated.

Terry

if you dont have a good connection somewhere, it makes a huge impact on the car
are you throwing any CELs?
does the LM1's screen read 10.0 as well as the maftpro read 10.0?

it sounds like you don't have great connections, so that when you put the console carpet back on, it knocked one of the wires loose...

are they ALL soldered in?

[Quick Vr4]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

send me a logfile showing it, look at the TPS and MAP signals. Check the response and MAP enrichment traces as well. The glitchy airflow signal is coming from somewhere.

set the TPS enrichment and MAP enrichment to zero (one then the other and see if that fixes it...

Make sure your harnesses are plugged in firmly

Bob

will do. i also notice that when i move the maft it sometimes gives a hick-up. the harness doesn't seat perfectly or something.

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by Rustang Cobra

if you dont have a good connection somewhere, it makes a huge impact on the car
are you throwing any CELs?
does the LM1's screen read 10.0 as well as the maftpro read 10.0?

it sounds like you don't have great connections, so that when you put the console carpet back on, it knocked one of the wires loose...

are they ALL soldered in?

When it doesn't idle I do get a CEL but with that ECU I can't pull it out (the maft-pro software won't do that will it?).


The LM1 reads the correct a/f which is usually no where near 10. The software reads it at 10 constantly however it does occasionally fluxuate up to 11 which is still off from the LM1's reading.

The wires aren't soldered...I just used the connectors that came with the kit. Like I said I double checked all the connections and they seemed to be tight. Are there any specific ones I should check that would affect the car like this?

I'm almost thinking I have a defective unit between the idle problems and the WB not reading right.

Terry

[Rustang Cobra]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

When it doesn't idle I do get a CEL but with that ECU I can't pull it out (the maft-pro software won't do that will it?).


The LM1 reads the correct a/f which is usually no where near 10. The software reads it at 10 constantly however it does occasionally fluxuate up to 11 which is still off from the LM1's reading.

The wires aren't soldered...I just used the connectors that came with the kit. Like I said I double checked all the connections and they seemed to be tight. Are there any specific ones I should check that would affect the car like this?

I'm almost thinking I have a defective unit between the idle problems and the WB not reading right.

Terry

you HAVE to solder EVERYTHING

we all found out the hard way the connectors dont make a good connection

just solder everything in place and then see what happens

[Jeremy C]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

When it doesn't idle I do get a CEL but with that ECU I can't pull it out (the maft-pro software won't do that will it?).


The LM1 reads the correct a/f which is usually no where near 10. The software reads it at 10 constantly however it does occasionally fluxuate up to 11 which is still off from the LM1's reading.

The wires aren't soldered...I just used the connectors that came with the kit. Like I said I double checked all the connections and they seemed to be tight. Are there any specific ones I should check that would affect the car like this?

I'm almost thinking I have a defective unit between the idle problems and the WB not reading right.

Terry

Where did you tap the t-pro into the WB at? It sounds almost like a bad ground connection for the t-pro.

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by Rustang Cobra

you HAVE to solder EVERYTHING

we all found out the hard way the connectors dont make a good connection

just solder everything in place and then see what happens

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I'm assuming you think that's the problem with the wideband too?

Terry