![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#711 (permalink) | |
|
Resident mad scientist
|
Quote:
I suppose the instructions should contain some details about what to do after you first set it and try it. Rob is right, leave the gain low (like you have it) and turn the start DC up until your boost is about where you want it. Then turn the gain up to 10 or so and it will control your boost at the set PSI. Bob
__________________
Need a datalogger? Check out the Scanmaster 3
PM me about ECU mods for 8000+ RPM rev limits !!!!!!!! Stock = 7300 RPM Stage 1 = 8060 RPM Stage 2 = 8200 RPM Stage 3 = 8400 RPM Stage 4 = 8800 RPM (By request only) ![]() 1991 Stealth RT/TT, Grooms Shortblock, 13G's. My Stealth is for sale, 65000 miles, runs perfectly. $6,500 (a bargain) ![]() |
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#712 (permalink) | |
|
Y-Pipe Exploder
|
i set the dc start to 30 and the gain to 10 and it did the same thing.... boosts to about 12 then dives back to 3 where it holds.
i set the dc to 100 to see if it would keep the wastegates closed, and it did. Quote:
__________________
![]() PERFORMANCE-- < OTHER--<<5zigen 17x9 hyper black FN01R-c>> Optima yellow top (relocated to trunk)>> JL 10W7 on JL 500/1 >> Alpine type S doors on Alpine F240>> Full Katzkin Leathers >> 99 rear center >> |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#713 (permalink) | |
|
Resident mad scientist
|
Quote:
Bob |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#714 (permalink) | |
|
I think my cars drunk...
|
Quote:
you really have to solder the connections, i honestly think bob should stop including the t-tap connections because it just promotes problems that can be easily avoided as far as the solenoid goes.... my DC start % is 75 and i run around 16psi 50% will get you around 12psi 30% will get you 6-8psi 14% will get you 6psi or slightly less i also think you installed the solenoid backwards
__________________
2003 Nissan 350z - New toy 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo - Sold Old Dyno w/15gs- 404awhp/398awtq @17psi mustang dyno - SOLD 1998 Mustang cobra - RIP Dyno 275rwhp/278rwtq 92 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Winter beater |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#715 (permalink) | |
|
Y-Pipe Exploder
|
yes, im fully aware that the problems are my fault, the part about giving up was a joke...
when i installed this i knew it was going to be a pain in the ass to get it working right, but i planned to use it as a learning experience, and so far, it has been. the best way to learn is to make mistakes, ive made my mistakes, and i have learned from them. this weekend i will be redoing all the connections (this time the right way) and fixing the TPS. and thanks for the advice with the DC also, i installed the BC exactly how the instructions said to. so i installed it backwards if the instructions are backwards. Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#716 (permalink) |
|
Forum Member
|
Another question about tuning with the stock O2's unplugged. Will the stock ECU react differently to different steady voltages on the O2 lines? Say if I feed 0.2 V from a regulated source into each O2, what will the ECU do with fuel trims, vs feeding it 0.7 V? Could this be used to keep the fuel trims around 100%, rather than having them peg at max rich? Also, might it keep the ECU from throwing CELs?
__________________
'92 Stealth RT/TT, Sandstorm, 125K miles
Currently installed: E-MBC, SS brake lines, Motul 600 BF, FN01R-C rims, ATR DP, test pipe, and exhaust, EK2Mfg EGR blockoff plates, MAFT-Pro, S-ITC, Dejon Tool intake runners, JIC FTL-A2 struts, PST CFDS, Tial BOV, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Accelerated Motorsports catch can, Ebay FMIC, Evo 560's, IPO dual feed fuel lines, Greddy P/W/H EGT gauge, IPO battery relocation, Optima red top, PWR radiator, DSM shifter bushings, custom WW fluid tank, Saner F/R swaybars, PLX WB O2 setup, SCE StopTech ST-40 332x33 front brake upgrade & 300mm rear rotors, SCE tender springs, SCE caster/camber plates, Titan Bending f header, 15G turbos,forged crank, Crower rods, Weisco pistons, DR Stage 2 heads, TRS seats, 5 pnt harnesses. |
|
|
|
|
|
#717 (permalink) | |
|
Resident mad scientist
|
Quote:
With the O2's disconnected the ECU sees 0.0 volts, The ECU doesn't move the trims until after it sees the O2 voltage start to move. If you fed a .2 volts, the ECU would run the trims to max, to try to raise the O2 voltage. If you fed a constant .7 volts, the ECU would run the trims to minimum. Once pegged out, the ECU gives up, and switches to open loop, but the transition is not smooth.... The only way to hold the trims at 100% would be to feed an O2 voltage into the ECU based on the trim values. Not sure how to do that...... (the Scanmaster could be made to do it, with some work....) But, the trims DONT peg rich when you unhook the O2's (as far as ALL the guys here who have tried it have found.....) (except for Shiver, I guess......) As far as preventing the CEL, I'm not sure how to do that. If you fed a constant .45 volts, theoretically, the ECU will think that the trims are perfect, and not move them...... unless there is some logic that requires the O2 to toggle to prevent the CEL..... Bob (The preceeding is based on my findings, and reported results of others) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#720 (permalink) | |
|
Racing
|
Quote:
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
|
LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.3si.org/forum/f103/official-maft-pro-thread-290438/
|
||||
| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| HOW TO INSTALL MAFTPRO ON A 91-99 3000GT VR4/91-96 STEALTH TT | This thread | Refback | 04-13-2008 01:45 AM | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|