---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[Racer_X]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

I just finished reading through all 47 pages in this thread. ok, from what I have read, most people use this as a speed density convertor, but ti can also be used with a GM maf. also, I gether that teh highest rpm adjustment point is right under 8K rpm. I am interested in getting one of these things to replace my MAF-T, just had a few questions...

1. Can it directly replace my maf-t (i.e., can I plug my ls1 maf into it and program it and ride), or do I have to buy extra sensors.

2. Can it be tuned for rpms over 8K. I plan on revving my car to 8.5-9K and I may need a little extr addjustment after 8K.

3. I have been told that the unit can self adjust to match a target A/F ratio from a wide band controller at WOT. will it do this irregardless of the rpm, or is 8K the limit for the unit

4. Are the adjustment maps all rpm based, or are there air flow vs air flow corrected maps available.

5. how soon will the timing control be available, and will it be able to handle rpm's above 8K.

6. (dumb question that I could look up, but since I am asking questions) What would be the price for a unit that works with the ls1 maf, and timing control, and pc connection (that may be a standard feature, but I wasn't sure if it required a special cable like the e-manage)

still very curious/interested

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

still very curious/interested

ok, let me see here......

1. yes
2. not currently
3. above 8K it will use the 8k target AFR
4. no airflow vs airflow at the moment. Maps are RPM vs Manifold pressure
5. timing control is a couple months, it will run above 8K, adjustments higher than that may be possible if there is demand.
6. unit is 399, timing control upgrade will be free. communication cable and software is included.

[Racer_X]

ok, so if the maps are rpm vs. manifold pressure, do I have to have the map sensor to tune?

[RobBeck]

Yes the Map sensor is what tells the Maft Pro what your manifold pressure is...... so it can tune in conjunction with the IAT.

Originally Posted by Racer_X

ok, so if the maps are rpm vs. manifold pressure, do I have to have the map sensor to tune?

[TurboBob]

without a MAP sensor, you can use the TPS for the load index. (like a SAFC)
(for "AFC" and "Translator" modes)

Having a MAP sensor has advantages aside from the load index. You can log boost, and use the boost control function of the unit....

Bob

(to clarify further, Speed Density mode REQUIRES a MAP sensor)

[RobBeck]

Glad you said that for a minute there I was like WTF!!

Originally Posted by TurboBob

(to clarify further, Speed Density mode REQUIRES a MAP sensor)

[RobBeck]

Bob,

Tried aiming ya but had to run off quick. Anyway, wanted to get a quick refresher on Trims.

1) If Low/Medium/High Trims are above 100%, do you add or remove fuel?
a. What range of trim should be considered "acceptable" or close to OE? I only got to mess with it for about 20 minutes... but my low was ~73/mid around 98/ and high around 97..... if that helps you to help me

I understand these are "slow" moving on the logger, and must update after minutes of driving.....

2) If O2 Trims are above 100%, do you add or remove fuel?
a. What range of trim should be considered "acceptable" or close to OE?

This trim seems to be a more real time analysis of what is happening, I am assuming we want to see as close to 100% O2 trims... is this correct?


Thanks,
Rob

BTW, this thing kicks ass... started right up and runs great thus far.... cant wait to get the trims cleared up and the tune top notch (seems very likely to be attainable with this slick ass device)....

[TurboBob]

replied to your AIM, this is what I posted (I have said all this before BTW)

TurboBobBailey: yo, just got back to work here.
TurboBobBailey: trims (in the ECU) are what the ECU is doing to maintain 14.7:1
TurboBobBailey: so if the trim is 80, that means the ECU is removing fuel to maintain 14.7
TurboBobBailey: note, the trims in a 1G are exaggerated, a trim of 80 is only about 5% correction in the ECU. (based on my research)
TurboBobBailey: to make a trim of 80 go back to 100, remove about 5% in the Pro (-5%).
TurboBobBailey: these both said, I am now tuning for trims of 81. The car runs fine, and the tuning is easier. If the trims are pinned at 81, then you only have to watch the O2 trim.
TurboBobBailey: The O2 trim is the key to driveability as well. Spend some time watching what it does, especially if the main trims are pinned low. Then the operation is very clear.
TurboBobBailey: I tune for main trims pinned at 81, and the O2 trim 80 - 90.
TurboBobBailey: catch you later.
TurboBobBailey: B

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Bob,

Tried aiming ya but had to run off quick. Anyway, wanted to get a quick refresher on Trims.

1) If Low/Medium/High Trims are above 100%, do you add or remove fuel?
a. What range of trim should be considered "acceptable" or close to OE? I only got to mess with it for about 20 minutes... but my low was ~73/mid around 98/ and high around 97..... if that helps you to help me

I understand these are "slow" moving on the logger, and must update after minutes of driving.....

2) If O2 Trims are above 100%, do you add or remove fuel?
a. What range of trim should be considered "acceptable" or close to OE?

This trim seems to be a more real time analysis of what is happening, I am assuming we want to see as close to 100% O2 trims... is this correct?


Thanks,
Rob

BTW, this thing kicks ass... started right up and runs great thus far.... cant wait to get the trims cleared up and the tune top notch (seems very likely to be attainable with this slick ass device)....

1) If the trims (main trims) are above 100, the ECU is adding fuel. If YOU add fuel with the Pro, the ECU will drop the trim back down.

2) if the O2 trim is above 100, that means the main trim will be increasing soon......unless the main trim is at its limit.

Both my cars had the trims pinned at 81 when they were bone stock, since tuning is simpler when this is the case, I tune for it now, even though tuning for 100 would seem 'correct'.

Generally, if driveability is good, any trim is fine.......

The O2 trim is used to chase the O2 sensor. If the O2 trim spends much time away from 100, the ECU will increment/decrement the main trim in order to bring the O2 trim back to 100.

Bob

[RobBeck]

Is this true even in the Hybrid ECUs (with shivers logger)? It seems the reverse is happening to me. If I lean it out (add more negative correction further from 0%), the trims go down. If I richen it (remove negative correction closer to 0%), the trims seem to go up..... but I really need to start making notes to make sure I am remembering things correctly not. On the bright side I am boosting much higher, but cant get my WBO2 to stay in the 11.0+:1 range without pulling a TON of correction up top... I am assuming this is normal?

Rob

Originally Posted by TurboBob

1) If the trims (main trims) are above 100, the ECU is adding fuel. If YOU add fuel with the Pro, the ECU will drop the trim back down.

Bob