---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[Rustang Cobra]

lol why you making your install a long drawn out process

it took me like 2 hours while taking pics

my map sensor is stuck on the firewall using extra strong double sided tape, the IAT in the Y pipe, the solenoid is sitting where my MBC used to be (kinda just chillin between the FPR and Y pipe) it doesnt have to be mounted, its not goin anywhere

[RobBeck]

Sounds pretty slick........

Originally Posted by Rustang Cobra

lol why you making your install a long drawn out process

it took me like 2 hours while taking pics

my map sensor is stuck on the firewall using extra strong double sided tape, the IAT in the Y pipe, the solenoid is sitting where my MBC used to be (kinda just chillin between the FPR and Y pipe) it doesnt have to be mounted, its not goin anywhere

[Superjfly]

Rustang: Do you have the single or dual stage menthol inj setup? Would dual stage be possible with the Maft Pro?

[RobBeck]

Turbobob,

Anything in particular wrong with getting the RPM signal from the white wire (Pin 58 on C90 for Hybrid ECUs) which is part of the power transistor and also connects to the "meter and gauges" (presumably Tachometer) per the service manual? This is where I have already tapped into for when I had my S-AFC2, which worked fine..... otherwise I can hit the Blue/White (Pin 89 on C54 for Hybrid ECUs) wire for the Crank Sensor if that is preferred.....

Rob

[KILURV8]

Ok, I have some serious super low throttle issues that I cant seem to get worked out. I readjusted the TPS sensor per the instructions in the manual so my TPS now reads .79 volts when closed. It seems like when I am driving around, the car seems to think I am not pushing in the gas at all until I pass the 1.22V mark. This is making tip in and very low throttle driving a severe pain in my ass. It keeps going in and out of adding fuel (wideband will go from 14.7 to lean and back to 14.7 and then back to lean) which causes the car to buck. I have tried adding fuel in the low and mid ranges and that doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone have any help for me?

[cbatters]

Originally Posted by KILURV8

Ok, I have some serious super low throttle issues that I cant seem to get worked out. I readjusted the TPS sensor per the instructions in the manual so my TPS now reads .79 volts when closed. It seems like when I am driving around, the car seems to think I am not pushing in the gas at all until I pass the 1.22V mark. This is making tip in and very low throttle driving a severe pain in my ass. It keeps going in and out of adding fuel (wideband will go from 14.7 to lean and back to 14.7 and then back to lean) which causes the car to buck. I have tried adding fuel in the low and mid ranges and that doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone have any help for me?

ECU does not use TPS signal for anything except fuel enrichment. Absoilute value of TPS signal is not important.

Only critrical TPS adjustment is to make sure TPS switch closes properly when your foot is off the acccelerator.

Do an intake leak test and fix any air leaks. (Air leak will cause problems with low throttle setting - feels like a flat spot.)

If no air leaks, check plug condition, compression and then ECU. ("Lean" condition can easily be caused by misfire - even if there is tons of excess fuel)



Clint

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Turbobob,

Anything in particular wrong with getting the RPM signal from the white wire (Pin 58 on C90 for Hybrid ECUs) which is part of the power transistor and also connects to the "meter and gauges" (presumably Tachometer) per the service manual? This is where I have already tapped into for when I had my S-AFC2, which worked fine..... otherwise I can hit the Blue/White (Pin 89 on C54 for Hybrid ECUs) wire for the Crank Sensor if that is preferred.....

Rob

No problem using the RPM signal. You will need to use the crank sensor signal for timing control once it is released though.

Bob

[TurboBob]

KILURV8, can you email me your bin file?

Bob

[Rustang Cobra]

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Sounds pretty slick........

ive had absolutely no problems with my install at all, that double sided tape is strong shit, its holding up my brothers entire headliner, i hung up a 10lb mirror on the back of my bedroom door with it, it wasnt cheap though....$20 for a roll at staples, its lasted forever though

the solenoid has no need to be mounted, it hasnt moved since i placed it where it is, its suspended by the vaccum tubes and wiring harness going into it, the wiring harness is covered by wiring loom and run neatly along the firewall and then under the carpet inside the cabin

the IAT hole was drilled and tapped in the Y pipe and has been pressure tested to 30psi with the IAT in place

its a clean, functional and fast install....no need to make it a long drawn out process, i HATE having my car down for any reason at all, i'll work on it till 3am in 30* if i have to, i plan ahead so any install i do will never take more than the day i started, i usually pick up extra parts just incase i break or forget something. take some pics of your install, it wouldnt be the worst thing in the world to have 2 "HOW TO" guides

Rustang: Do you have the single or dual stage menthol inj setup? Would dual stage be possible with the Maft Pro?

i dont use the "lightweight" kit, mine is the snow performance kit, sold by dlabonte on this board (GB for 340) right now, it uses a variable controller to regulate w/m injection that increases with boost, so at 5psi im only spraying something like 100ml/min and at 15psi im spraying 700ml/min

it allows you to constantly spray without getting a sudden rush of water/meth all at once

Ok, I have some serious super low throttle issues that I cant seem to get worked out. I readjusted the TPS sensor per the instructions in the manual so my TPS now reads .79 volts when closed. It seems like when I am driving around, the car seems to think I am not pushing in the gas at all until I pass the 1.22V mark. This is making tip in and very low throttle driving a severe pain in my ass. It keeps going in and out of adding fuel (wideband will go from 14.7 to lean and back to 14.7 and then back to lean) which causes the car to buck. I have tried adding fuel in the low and mid ranges and that doesn't seem to make any difference. Anyone have any help for me?

im having the same trouble, it goes back and forth between lean and stoich because the ecu is correcting the extreme lean condition at that very light throttle position. i'm going to play with my VE table to see if i can smooth it out

[ryein7]

hey turbo bob are you still overlcocking ECUs? i sent you a pm but you never replied.