---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[Rogue_Ant]

xteekayx,
First thing, do you have any check engine lights? What version of the T-Pro software are you running? Is the T-Pro wired for direct timing control? Do you have the timing monitor hooked up? And do you have a WideBand O2? If so, what type?
Also, with the key-on and engine off, what does the MP say on the T-Pro sensor menu?


-Rogue

[xteekayx]

Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant

xteekayx,
First thing, do you have any check engine lights? What version of the T-Pro software are you running? Is the T-Pro wired for direct timing control? Do you have the timing monitor hooked up? And do you have a WideBand O2? If so, what type?
Also, with the key-on and engine off, what does the MP say on the T-Pro sensor menu?


-Rogue

Ok here it is ...

I do have WB but it's not on the car right now, i have stock DP on because i want to take the car to inspection soon. All of the connected sensors seem to work good, when i go to sensor monitor in the MAFTPRO with the engine of the MP is about 103.xx and with the car on it goes down to around 30 when i get it to idle for couple of seconds. Also TPS voltage does change from .8 to 4.5x and the MT also changes. I'm going to try and connect a laptop to it so i can pull of the current settings and try to load the 5.03 software and Bob's file. I belive i do not have the timing control wired into the car just by looking at the harness. As of the check engine lights, i don't know, the shop that worked on the car for the previous owner, to the bulb out. I'll have to connect the logger to it soon as will get it.

Which is the most current and up to date wiring diagram for a 95 TT??...

On Tuesday i want to go over the wiring and see if they connected to the right spot but for now it seems like it is a fuel problem since i can see it and smell it from the exhaust ...

What else would you suggest?

[UCSB VR4]

Originally Posted by Overboosted

Hey guys, I still got my idle issue that I can't seem to be able to figure out. I have the richest idle and I dont seem to be able to control it but I dont know if its a maft problem.

Is it normal for the ecu to not be able to read under 25-30 hrz from the maf or whatever is producing the signal like the pro?

No matter how much fuel I remove my logger shows no less than 25hrz and the afr does not change. I can see the pro sending a lower signal every time I remove fuel but its like the ecu doesent understand the low hrz signal.

In fact I can remove so much fuel that the pro sends a 5 hrz signal with no change to the idle or logger reading.

Any idea what might be causing this? I'm sure this is not right

I have this same exact problem, you described it to a tee. My O2s are also unplugged, completely relying on the wideband. If you reset the ECU, then the issue will go away (at least for a few weeks) until some point when the problem will come back again. I had no idea it had to do with low frequency output. It's like once it get's into this "ignore" mode then it'll run very rich at idle (max "-" CF) and completely ignore the maftpro output, then you're stuck in that situation until you reset the ECU again. I've reset the ECU about 4-5 times over the last few months to address this issue. I'm not sure how to prevent it permanently, but will keep trying and let you know.

- Jeff

[Overboosted]

Originally Posted by UCSB VR4

I have this same exact problem, you described it to a tee. My O2s are also unplugged, completely relying on the wideband. If you reset the ECU, then the issue will go away (at least for a few weeks) until some point when the problem will come back again. I had no idea it had to do with low frequency output. It's like once it get's into this "ignore" mode then it'll run very rich at idle (max "-" CF) and completely ignore the maftpro output, then you're stuck in that situation until you reset the ECU again. I've reset the ECU about 4-5 times over the last few months to address this issue. I'm not sure how to prevent it permanently, but will keep trying and let you know.

- Jeff

I guess even though I get no cel the ecu must go into a limp mode without any o2 feedback after awhile.

Maybe there is someway to give the ecu a constant stoich voltage to keep the trims from messing the tune up but at the same time not throwing it into this limp mode.

I really hate the fact that I foul my plugs up for 2 minutes every time before I shut the car down, cant be good.

[TurboBob]

one thing to try is to use a different air temp or baro simulated voltage to the ECU to get it into a different range. i.e. set the V out 1 setpoint lower to simulate a higher air temp. This will lean out the fueling allowing you to use a higher MAF frequency (less negative mainscale).

Same effect using the barometer signal, lower the V out 2 setpoint to make the ECU think you are at a higher altitude.

Bob

[Rogue_Ant]

xteekayx,

The only wiring for the 3S platform that has changed is the timing control, and changing the timing monitor to the tach output (instead of the power transistor).

I suggest adjusting your mainscale until you have decent compromise between idle and cruising. I would suggest starting around -30 on the mainscale.

Also, make sure you are using VE 2 (under the setup menu on the T-Pro).


-Rogue

[xteekayx]

Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant

xteekayx,

The only wiring for the 3S platform that has changed is the timing control, and changing the timing monitor to the tach output (instead of the power transistor).

I suggest adjusting your mainscale until you have decent compromise between idle and cruising. I would suggest starting around -30 on the mainscale.

Also, make sure you are using VE 2 (under the setup menu on the T-Pro).


-Rogue

Right now i have main scale at -38% and then -4% at the lo settings and it still runs very rich ( judging from the exhust smoke :\ ). Also, can you direct me on which wiring diagram to use for timing?

[Overboosted]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

one thing to try is to use a different air temp or baro simulated voltage to the ECU to get it into a different range. i.e. set the V out 1 setpoint lower to simulate a higher air temp. This will lean out the fueling allowing you to use a higher MAF frequency (less negative mainscale).

Same effect using the barometer signal, lower the V out 2 setpoint to make the ECU think you are at a higher altitude.

Bob

I have done this and the lowest voltage the ecu will read is 25 ish hrz. I guess resetting the ecu is the only way to fix this untill something better is figured out.

[UCSB VR4]

Originally Posted by Overboosted

I have done this and the lowest voltage the ecu will read is 25 ish hrz. I guess resetting the ecu is the only way to fix this untill something better is figured out.

One thing worth mentioning is that my ouput frequency hovers at about 29/30 during 14.7:1 idle at 800 RPM. When the ECU goes into limp mode (rich condition) the wideband tries to compensate by removing fuel (CF = -10.3) and the frequency output reduces all the way down to about 25 with the AFR still too rich at about 13.x. From what I can tell (as the CF value goes further and further negative), the AFR actually creeps closer and closer to 14.7 but never quite gets there once the CF bottoms out at it's negative max. This makes me think that the maftpro output isn't completely being ignored, but just has little to no effect on the actual fuel injection.

I'm really at a loss, it must be outside the control of the maftpro.

- Jeff

[Rogue_Ant]

Originally Posted by xteekayx

Right now i have main scale at -38% and then -4% at the lo settings and it still runs very rich ( judging from the exhust smoke :\ ). Also, can you direct me on which wiring diagram to use for timing?

Do you have the factory O2 sensors hooked up? If so, what are you fuel trims?
For direct timing control refer to this page, about half-way down. Though I suggest we get the car running properly before further complicating things.

Direct Timing Wiring


-Rogue