---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[EastWingedBeast]

Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant

If MAP drops below the lowest row, then that row is used static.
So, in your case, anything below 20kpa, the 20kpa row is used.


-Rogue

I see.
On another point, I'm getting the impression that the Mainscale value
might have something to do with timing also? Is this the case, coz
I've zero'd my mainscale, and adjusted the VE map accordingly. Has that
fuzzed up my timing? Should I set it back to -34.5 for 550cc injectors?

Cheers,
Paul.

[Rogue_Ant]

Any fueling adjustment you make can have an effect on timing. This is because we are changing the perceived load to the ECU. As long as it isn't a too drastic of a change then there isn't an issue. But beyond a certain point we need to start bringing timing in check.


-Rogue

[davebearclaw]

Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant

davebearclaw,

Since you're starting from scratch, update to the newest version Translator-Pro version first:
T-Pro 5.03

And here is the XDF/ADS files for TunerPro:
v5.xx Update files

Here is the updated Translator Pro Manual:
T-Pro v5 Manual

And here is a good base to start with:
Bob's 5.03 .bin

How is the Translator Pro wired? The above .bin is for direct timing control. If you don't have direct timing control wired, then you will need to switch the Vehicle Select to 1.

Once you get everything updated, I would start with a Mainscale of -35 or so. Larger injectors are usually a little lazy at low loads, so you typically have to add a little bit of fuel in those ranges. Use the Mainscale to get a good compromise between idle and cruising. Then use the User-Tunes (low, mid, high) to fine tune the car. Also, in TunerPro, make sure you use the correct XDF file for whichever Vehicle Select you've chosen.


-Rogue

Rogue-

Thanks for all your offline help getting a usable tune on my car. It really was nice to be able to drive it while I was home. I cant wait to get back home and really start on the project.

I would also like to thank everyone on this thread for the contributions they make. I haven't read the entire thread yet, but i am working on it.

[Rogue_Ant]

Originally Posted by davebearclaw

Rogue-

Thanks for all your offline help getting a usable tune on my car. It really was nice to be able to drive it while I was home. I cant wait to get back home and really start on the project.

I would also like to thank everyone on this thread for the contributions they make. I haven't read the entire thread yet, but i am working on it.

No problem bud. Keep your head-down over there and hit me up when you get back, or sooner if you have any questions.


-Rogue

[Storm Strike]

I'm sure this info has been posted, but I'm just looking for a quick answer. When I pull up to a stop sign and stop, my AFR goes really lean and the RPMs bottom out really low, almost stalling, before the AFR and RPMs rebound to a normal idle. Any settings in the MAFT Pro that will fix this? Thanks

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by Storm Strike

I'm sure this info has been posted, but I'm just looking for a quick answer. When I pull up to a stop sign and stop, my AFR goes really lean and the RPMs bottom out really low, almost stalling, before the AFR and RPMs rebound to a normal idle. Any settings in the MAFT Pro that will fix this? Thanks

Please post the software version, VE table setting, and your trim readings (from the logger)

This is usually caused by coast-down tuning that is a bit rich, causing the O2 trim to go really low during decel. Then when you reach idle, the O2 trim adjusts more slowly due to the lower RPM, and the car is too lean from the O2 trim being too low

VE table #2 is tuned to help prevent this.

Bob

Bob

[xteekayx]

Hey fellows ,

I was just wondering about wiring the MAF-T Pro. I bought a car that has MAF-T Pro installed in speed density, thecar runs rough but thats because one of the cylinders is shot. Anyway, as i was reading the MAF-T Pro manual last night i noticed that the only way to simulate temperature sensor to the stock ECU is by doing that Aux volts out and then setting it to mitsu IAT and tapping into the stock ECU IAT wire. Now what happends with the baro sensor???... there is no output option with the baro sensor on MAF-T Pro. The check engine bulb is taken out so I'm not sure if it throws the sell or not, but most likely it does and prolly for many other things too. I have the logger cable and palm but the logger battery does not hold a charge and turns off as soon as i remove it from the craddle ...

My car is 95 RT/TT and I was just wondering on how to run the maft-pro so it would not throw a cell and i could pass inspection?

[Rogue_Ant]

You don't need to pass a simulated IAT or Baro signal to the ECU. A static voltage signal is more then fine, as the T-Pro Speed-Density algorithm includes both of these internally.

Check out this thread:

3Si T-Pro Wiki


-Rogue

[xteekayx]

Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant

You don't need to pass a simulated IAT or Baro signal to the ECU. A static voltage signal is more then fine, as the T-Pro Speed-Density algorithm includes both of these internally.

Check out this thread:

3Si T-Pro Wiki


-Rogue

Thank You!

[EastWingedBeast]

My FPR self destructed!!!!! Aaaaaaahhhhh!
Dont by anything from 3SX Performance = Losers!
Go straight to the horses mouth and save yourself $40.