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#21 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
Since the boost logging harness is for Scanmaster how do you wire it up to the Pro? Also is the wiring Diagram for first gens (91-93) the same for Hybirds (94-95) or is it different? On fullthrottletect.com then only have the wiring for first gens thats why I can if its the same.
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![]() Current: 95 240SX SE - VLSD, S14 SR20DET, HDI FMIC, ProjectNissan 3" downpipe, ProjectNissan 3" test pipe, 3" Nismo catback, Blitz filter, Walbro fuel pump, Koyo radiator, Greddy Type-S BOV, Tien S. Tech springs 95 3000GT base - Stock 94 3000GT VR4 - K&N Filter, Test pipe, Denso fuel pump, HKS EVC IV, EGR bypass, Clone Type-S BOV. 92 Ninja EX500 - Full Muzzy exhaust Sold: 90 240SX - SOHC to DOHC, Auto to 5spd, 11:1 compression, bunch other mods. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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I think my cars drunk...
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I'm still confused on what to adjust mainscale to for my 580cc injectors?
i guess ill just try trial and error, ill start at -40%
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2003 Nissan 350z - New toy 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo - Sold Old Dyno w/15gs- 404awhp/398awtq @17psi mustang dyno - SOLD 1998 Mustang cobra - RIP Dyno 275rwhp/278rwtq 92 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Winter beater |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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I thought I posted an answer......
I was going to start at -35%. -40% is a good place to start as well. Bob
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Need a datalogger? Check out the Scanmaster 3
PM me about ECU mods for 8000+ RPM rev limits !!!!!!!! Stock = 7300 RPM Stage 1 = 8060 RPM Stage 2 = 8200 RPM Stage 3 = 8400 RPM Stage 4 = 8800 RPM (By request only) ![]() 1991 Stealth RT/TT, Grooms Shortblock, 13G's, Translator Pro, www.maftpro.com |
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#24 (permalink) |
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I think my cars drunk...
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yea i didnt get what .62 meant until i put two and two together a couple hours ago
360/580 = .62 (.62 - 1 ) * 100 = -38% is the value i put into mainscale my car is running OK its fine for a while then suddenly for no reason the car bucks because it goes lean all of a sudden, this is with no changes to throttle pressure at all My IAT is in the Y pipe BEFORE my w/m injection nozzle like you said.... every sensor is reading fine also i cannot get my laptop to see the maftpro at all, im using a usb to serial converter, ive tried comm ports 1 and 3 setting them in device manager and in tuner pro R/T and it still wont detect the hardware, any suggestions here? |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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PM me a phone number if you want, and I'll call you.
is the lean buck while driving or idling? (Or like 3 seconds after hitting a button) every once in a while, while saving the settings to memory (3 seconds after you press a button) the unit has to clear a page of memory to save to. When this happens you will feel a hiccup. If the car is idling it may stall. This won't happen if you're not tuning.... (I'll fix this in a future software release) Did you load the tunerpro that was included with the unit? Do you have any palm sync software running? what brand of usb converter are you using? I tested my USB adapter the other day and it worked flawlessly. Bob |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Dodge THIS!!
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Bob - I really like this, but not the "hiccup" when will you fix that in the software? On a scale of 1 - 10 how hard is this to learn to tune and install this bad boy? Bob, rustang?
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1992 Dodge Stealth 1994 engine, 13T's, 560cc evo injectors, viper replica hood, 25% tinted windows, HKS SSQ BOV, powder coated Y-pipe, and upper plenum, polished lower plenum, short shift kit, 99 lifters, walbro 255lph fuel pump, LS1 maft, custom true dual exhaust |
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#27 (permalink) |
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I think my cars drunk...
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is the lean buck while driving or idling? (Or like 3 seconds after hitting a button) It can be at either time
every once in a while, while saving the settings to memory (3 seconds after you press a button) the unit has to clear a page of memory to save to. When this happens you will feel a hiccup. If the car is idling it may stall. This won't happen if you're not tuning.... (I'll fix this in a future software release) This makes complete sense now, because while trying to tune it would do it, so we tried to reproduce the hiccup so we could log it. Well whenever we did this, the car would drive with no problems at all, so we'd go to make an adjustment here or there and boom, lean hiccup again. Eventually we got a log of it, @ 40% throttle i was making 7psi and the car went straight from 12.1: 1 to 15.2: 1 and back down again. After this incident I called it a day as somethign like that could be quite catastrophic at WOT and a higher amount of boost. Now i see that i should make a run, log it, make a change and go make another run. No more tuning on the fly until you take care of that bug FYI...This NEVER caused me to get any knock counts at all which is good Did you load the tunerpro that was included with the unit? Yes v.4 i believe Do you have any palm sync software running? It might have been running in the background i'm not sure (no palm was hooked up to the laptop though) what brand of usb converter are you using? Its my neighbors that ive been using for the past year to tune my emanage. It doesn't have any brand name on it, the drivers indicate that its "USB v1.2 cable" so its probably some generic thing. i think im gonna get one for myself though, any brands you recommend? where did you get it from? Colorado As far as tuning difficulty, id rate the MAFTpro 8/10, afc - 5/10, maft 3/10, Emanage 7/10, haltech (standalone) 9/10 the afc and maft are pretty easy because well the maft is just 4 nobs and the afc has everything right there. the emanage is a little tougher because you have to get it to connect to your laptop, messing around with comm ports and stuff, then theres a lot more variability on what you can do. you can tune by boost vs rpm, tps vs rpm or airflow vs rpm and you can also change timing. the maftpro is even tougher because it does a great deal of logging and tuning with the same software. Theres a little more of a learning curve than with the emanage but in the end your better off. And theres a lot of adjusting minor things like throttle tip in enrichment, auxillary rpm engagement (for my water/meth), then IMO things like a wideband are absolutely necessary with something like the MAFTpro. the haltech is a standalone ecu, basically its like the AEM, you have tons of stuff to setup to get started, you have to run a strong ignition, wideband, map sensor and other stuff are all necessary. You tune on a 3d map of Boost vs RPM vs TPS, so its difficult when you're first starting off, but once you get the hang of it, it allows the ultimate in adjustability and accuracy (there is no tricking the stock ecu into thinking its getting a particular airflow value) |
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#29 (permalink) | |
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Resident mad scientist
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Quote:
The brown wire on the 10 pin connector feeds the IAT input to the ECU, recheck that connection and see what V Out1 setpoint is set to in the settings page, it should be about 2.5 volts, and the ECU should report about 77 degrees. Bob |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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USB Converter.
I am using this one. http://sewelldirect.com/usbtoserial.asp anyway, if you had a previous generic installation of the tunerpro software, when you install over it, the old preferences are saved. Your old preferences were probably not correct and need to be setup. Are you saying that there is no hardware being detected, or that the logging function cannot connect? Bob |
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