---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[templar]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

Bob, any ideas?

well, you wire it for speed density, set it to speed density conversion mode, then drive around w/o any correction factor.

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

Bob, any ideas?

I answered your other thread.

[jwetzler]

thanks bob

[3000vr4tt]

for some reason when i connect my lap top to the maft pro..everything is different displacement says 3.80 but on maft pro itself reads 3.00 and sometimes its not saving the changes. im also having problem updating to the new version. everytime i open it up it says something i forgot but it wont connect or something i really cant remember

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by 3000vr4tt

for some reason when i connect my lap top to the maft pro..everything is different displacement says 3.80 but on maft pro itself reads 3.00 and sometimes its not saving the changes. im also having problem updating to the new version. everytime i open it up it says something i forgot but it wont connect or something i really cant remember

Tuner pro does not automatically read the data out of the unit. It reads a file off the disk.

when you connect, use the DOWNLOAD button to read the data out of the Pro, and then do File-Save As to save it to disk. When you make changes in tunerpro, you need to save them, then upload them.

let us know whats up with the update routine.

Bob

[Storm Strike]

Well, I have the weirdest settings ever in my maf-pro, to get the car to run good. Speed density setup, rev 4.80, Evo injectors measured at 610cc/mim by Cruizin Performance back in early spring, NEW Walbro 255 fuel pump-high pressure version, NEW NGK copper plugs gapped at 22 thousanths. All maf-pro settings set per the start up guide posted on the wiki on this forum. I had to tweak the temp and baro output voltages slightly lower to get the datalogger to show the proper 75 deg and 0.96 bar readings the startup guide called for. Now, the weird part is that I have to set my mainscale to -20% and my mid range settings to about +25% and my high range to +27-28%. This gives me 6 counts or knock or less under 20 lbs of boost. Still tweaking the settings, probably need more fuel still. No idea why I need to set the maf-pro so darn RICH just to get good readings on the O2's and min. knock. Mathematically, I should be using a mainscale of like -45% with min. corrections, but it's working out no where near that. It is SOOOO acting like it's starving for fuel, but I've checkd or replaced everything that could cause that. Even installed a new fuse block for the fuel pump hotwire. Only thing that's not been replaced is the fuel filter, and that's coming Tuesday. Also getting a new WBO2 sensor, as its a coulpe of years old and probably not reading accurately. Existing filter only has 5-6k miles on it tho. Also going to try and send the injectors out again for cleaning/checking over the winter. When I pulled the old plugs, they were all reddish, rusty orange colored.

TB, any ideas why I need to set the Pro so rich to make the engine run right?

[3000vr4tt]

finally got my car started after 7 months and took it for a lil test drive. its pig rich at idle, and now my wideband isnt really working but any1 know how to lean it out i changed the mainscale for the 550 cc injectors, but its still way to rich

[EastWingedBeast]

Just upgraded my GTO to use MAFT Pro.
The documentation is a little lacking. Does anyone have a list of what all the settings do, and how they are implemented?

[templar]

Originally Posted by Storm Strike

Well, I have the weirdest settings ever in my maf-pro, to get the car to run good. Speed density setup, rev 4.80, Evo injectors measured at 610cc/mim by Cruizin Performance back in early spring, NEW Walbro 255 fuel pump-high pressure version, NEW NGK copper plugs gapped at 22 thousanths. All maf-pro settings set per the start up guide posted on the wiki on this forum. I had to tweak the temp and baro output voltages slightly lower to get the datalogger to show the proper 75 deg and 0.96 bar readings the startup guide called for. Now, the weird part is that I have to set my mainscale to -20% and my mid range settings to about +25% and my high range to +27-28%. This gives me 6 counts or knock or less under 20 lbs of boost. Still tweaking the settings, probably need more fuel still. No idea why I need to set the maf-pro so darn RICH just to get good readings on the O2's and min. knock. Mathematically, I should be using a mainscale of like -45% with min. corrections, but it's working out no where near that. It is SOOOO acting like it's starving for fuel, but I've checkd or replaced everything that could cause that. Even installed a new fuse block for the fuel pump hotwire. Only thing that's not been replaced is the fuel filter, and that's coming Tuesday. Also getting a new WBO2 sensor, as its a coulpe of years old and probably not reading accurately. Existing filter only has 5-6k miles on it tho. Also going to try and send the injectors out again for cleaning/checking over the winter. When I pulled the old plugs, they were all reddish, rusty orange colored.

TB, any ideas why I need to set the Pro so rich to make the engine run right?

Do you have the correct VE table set? (vehicle select option)

[TurboBob]

is RPM reading right on the pro?

All the config settings make sense?

What do VE and UT read at idle?

MAP readings?