---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[SXS]

Ok, looks like standalone EMS is the best way forward for a solid reliable setup. A bit of extra cash and far less headaches and plus all the electronics get a personal overhaul.

[TurboBob]

Its sort of a to-each-his-own situation.

The MAFT Pro, properly installed, is basically the same sort of deal as a standalone. Each setup has its advantages and dis-advantages.

Both have fuel control and timing control. I don't know if an AEM (not sure which standalone you are considering) has any sort of boost control. Both can log to a laptop...... etc.

Maft pro has keypad tunability, which the standalones do not. So any tweaking or casual monitoring you want to do requires you to fire up the ol' laptop. MAFT Pro (and AEM I think) can be run with the stock MAF. Maft Pro can be run with almost any MAF (GM MAF, blow thru is popular).

Both systems require a certain amount of tuning by the owner. Speed density needs the most tweaking, MAF mode is more straightforward.

Bob

[Storm Strike]

Drove the car around a good bit today, and I have to say I'm very happy with the Pro so far. Set the mainscale to -20 and only had to do minor tweaking to high range to give me a solid 11.4-11.5-1 at WOT at 20 psi. Biggest headaches so far is getting it to idle well. When I had it decent at hot idle, it was far too lean at cold idle when I fired it up a couple of hours later. Cruising and WOT is nice and smooth and solid. Idle has always been my biggest PITA, and not sure how to get a handle on it. Oh, and when I pull up to a stop, the RPMs hang at ~2K for a few seconds before dropping. Not the fault of the Pro tho, it's been doing that for that last 2 piggyback controllers before this one. :P

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by Storm Strike

Drove the car around a good bit today, and I have to say I'm very happy with the Pro so far. Set the mainscale to -20 and only had to do minor tweaking to high range to give me a solid 11.4-11.5-1 at WOT at 20 psi. Biggest headaches so far is getting it to idle well. When I had it decent at hot idle, it was far too lean at cold idle when I fired it up a couple of hours later. Cruising and WOT is nice and smooth and solid. Idle has always been my biggest PITA, and not sure how to get a handle on it. Oh, and when I pull up to a stop, the RPMs hang at ~2K for a few seconds before dropping. Not the fault of the Pro tho, it's been doing that for that last 2 piggyback controllers before this one. :P

the mitsu's seem to want 10 - 15% of afterstart enrichment.... give that at try.

the hangtime is probably the dashpot on the throttle body.

watch the TPS volts and see if it hangs a little.

Bob

[TurboBob]

where is your IAT installed?

[Highboosted]

Originally Posted by SXS

Ok, looks like standalone EMS is the best way forward for a solid reliable setup. A bit of extra cash and far less headaches and plus all the electronics get a personal overhaul.

Hope you know or can afford a good tuner. That being said, the EMS is well worth the effort.

Since I'm not putting that much effort into my car, I love the Pro. Thats why I decided to go piggyback instead of installing the TEC II I sold.

[Highboosted]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

the mitsu's seem to want 10 - 15% of afterstart enrichment.... give that at try.

the hangtime is probably the dashpot on the throttle body.

watch the TPS volts and see if it hangs a little.

Bob

Hot starts seem to be the main issue, even with afterstart (which makes cold starts too rich to idle when the hot start works. After it idles or I drive it after the hot start (which it won't idle), it suddenly works fine once the ECU is out of "start mode".

IAT at the filter. Haven't installed it in the piping yet.

Anything on the rich letoff thing? Lighting things on fire is getting old, lol.

[SXS]

Going for this one http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_k3.html
The company who invented this EMS are based here in the UK, they give a base map, and they can do the whole setup in less than a day. Yeah its not gonna be cheap but it aint diamonds either, i figured its gonna be less hassle in the long run, which costs time, thats what I want to avoid tbh.

Its a great ECU, does a lot of stuff including custom boost settings per gear. And a dashboard 3 map switch to choose between a cruise fuel efficient map and a performance map to an all out drag-racing map...

I only have 8 weeks left to get all this wrapped up before the big event!

Plus as far as I know, there arent any bods in the UK that are MAFTPro dealers or mechs who can help tune the thing and my concern is I'd end up trawling through this thread and posting questions and going through a learn and educate dyno graph, not my cup of tea

[Maximal]

So I unplugged the narrowband and the car idled fine. A/F was steady. At WOT it was pretty lean (even with the mainscale set to 14 to compensate for the overclocked ECU) but a little tuning helped that out and the nitrous is jetted so rich the A/F was still below 10 with that.

I thought I was set and just needed a little tuning and to figure out the cold start issue until I got to Ocean City. The car was fine the whole 400 mile trip down there but once there the idle issue started again. At idle the RPM's would just drop and if I tried to hold the RPM's and let them down gently the A/F would fluctuate and the RPM's would surge and drop until it eventually would die. However, sometimes it would idle fine and the A/F would be steady.

I thought at cruise it was fine except for being a little rich. 6 hours into the trip home the car started missing and I noticed the A/F went from the usual 13/14 at cruise till 16/off the gauge. I pulled over to get some food and adjusted the mainscale and the low throttle at around 3000rpms and it was running more rich than before making me think I didn't even have to adjust them.

So...any ideas on what it could be? I really want to get this thing working but I've already been messing with it for a year and without any solid documentation it might be better to go another route.

One question I do have on settings is what should the VE's be set at..the defualt 2.5 and 4 or should they be set to 0? I've heard both in this thread.

Terry

[Maximal]

BTW...here's the manual for the AEM wideband: http://www.tunertools.com/prodimages...structions.pdf

Terry