---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[runner4053]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

I have a 91 Stealth TT and just got the MAFT-Pro. I am going to be running this in Speed Density Mode. I am using the Speed Density Plug and Play Harness. If I understand correctly, the PnP harness lets me plug the readings from the IAT & MAP directly to the MAFT-Pro.
Eliminating the need to use the factory MAF Wiring for SD right?

I need some clarification on how to wire the 10 pin connector to my ECU wiring harness.

I don't currently have a Wideband, so is it fine if I just leave the wires for that unhooked?
Where does the MAF Sig Input come from? And do I even need to worry about that since I am using the Speed Density Plug and play harness?

I looked at the Wiring Diagram on the first page, but wasn't sure what these two wires correspond to:
White Wire=???
Grey Wire =???

Here are the color wires that I have on the 10 PIN Connector, if there are any errors please correct me.

Black=Ground/ pin 26
Yellow=MAF Sig Input
White=?
Grey=?
Brown=Air Temp Output/ pin 52

Orange=Wide Band Input
Purple=Wide Band Ground
Blue=TPS/ pin 65
Dark Green=MAF Sig Output/ pin 70
Pink=+12V/ pin 25

Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it. Hopefully I'll have this thing up and running soon.

Are you looking at this harness? For the rest of my answer, I'm going to assume you are. Take your stock MAF and unplug it and remove it. You are left with a plug hat is routing wires directly to the ECU. You install your Map sensor and your temp sensor. All the harness does is connect your map sensor and your temp sensor to that empty plug that used to be connected to your MAF.


Now, when you are cutting and splicing inside the car, the information coming though the wires that used to be a MAF and temp signal are now carrying MAP and temp signals. Your translator intercepts these and then converts them back to what they "should be" and sends it to the ECU. In theory, the ECU should have no idea the switch took place.

As far as the pinouts, I'll have to look for a little bit. I'll post back up when I find your answer.

[jwetzler]

Here is the harness that I bought. This plugs directly into the MAFT-Pro instead of going through the cars original MAF wiring. Will I still be able to run it with out the MAF with this harness? Will this work, or did I get the wrong one.

9ft Speed Density Harness

[runner4053]

Yeah, you'll be able to run it, but you just made things a little more difficult (at least in my head). That's okay though. I think that instead of splicing, you just cut and connect the maft-pro to the ECU and pretty much discard the old stock wires. This only applies to cutting locations. The spots where you have to tap into the wire, RPM for example, will be done the same way.

[runner4053]

I think I can say this clearer.

You cut wires 52 and 65. Solder the ECU side of these to the corresponding wires on the translator. You should be able to ignore the engine side of the wires you just cut. Tape them up or something. Then follow the diagram for wire 70. Then you tap into everything else.


I've said all this under the assumption that this harness carries the information from the MAP sensor and Temp sensor directly to the translator. If it doesn't do it this way, then I'm completely wrong and ignore my "cut here, solder there" advice. The only thing I'm not sure about is that yellow MAF wire (pin 70).

[jwetzler]

Yeah, the Harness carries the info from the MAP and Temp Sensor directly to the MAFT-Pro. It's a 6 pin connector harness.

On Pin 70 Do I tap into it or Cut it?

I'll probably send TurboBob a pm and see if he can confirm a few things

[runner4053]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

Yeah, the Harness carries the info from the MAP and Temp Sensor directly to the MAFT-Pro. It's a 6 pin connector harness.

On Pin 70 Do I tap into it or Cut it?

I'll probably send TurboBob a pm and see if he can confirm a few things

You will cut wire 70 and solder the engine side of the wire to the yellow wire in the 10 pin harness. The ECU side should be soldered to the green wire in the 10 pin harness.

I'm currently on a little business trip and won't be able to reach a computer until the 9th. Just so you know that I'm not ignoring you.

[msassoon]

Ok, finally home from Orlando, so I can start with the car again.

I have a few questions.

1. Is the user manual available yet?

2. When at idle, what factors influence the tune? I have set the PT Tracking, mainscale and AFR Tracking (WOT) and no matter what I put in the Tune Low area, I get an AFR of 16:1 and cannot increase it. This is after the Afterstart is gone. I have my TPS in the PT Tracking set to 0.6, but maybe this is too low as the car idles with TPS of 0.66V.

3. At WOT, the car runs at 14.7, but as the revs get over 4000rpm, it starts to lean out until it is off the gauge and I get fuel cut. What's the AFR Tracking really doing?!?

4. I have an NA, so what should I set all the Boost and Aux settings to?

Cheers

Marc

[Highboosted]

Originally Posted by msassoon

Ok, finally home from Orlando, so I can start with the car again.

I have a few questions.

1. Is the user manual available yet?

2. When at idle, what factors influence the tune? I have set the PT Tracking, mainscale and AFR Tracking (WOT) and no matter what I put in the Tune Low area, I get an AFR of 16:1 and cannot increase it. This is after the Afterstart is gone. I have my TPS in the PT Tracking set to 0.6, but maybe this is too low as the car idles with TPS of 0.66V.

3. At WOT, the car runs at 14.7, but as the revs get over 4000rpm, it starts to lean out until it is off the gauge and I get fuel cut. What's the AFR Tracking really doing?!?

4. I have an NA, so what should I set all the Boost and Aux settings to?

Cheers

Marc

1. the manual for ver. 4.4 includes most of the info you need.

2. idle TPS setting MUST be higher than your actual idle TPS value. Don't forget to set your MAP values correctly. remeber: The Pro uses Kpa absolute, so go to an online pressure converter to get an idea what gauge pressures = Pro values.

3. at WOT, 14.7 is SUPER lean. let me repeat: Your going to blow up your car eventually. Set AFR tracking to 11.5 for all RPM points. And you need to set your MAP value under this menu to something reasonable for a N/A, like 85-90 kpa.

4. don't bother changing those settings, thats only for boost controller use.

[msassoon]

Ok, I got this nailed. The AFR I had set was not 14.7 as I was dubious about that, so it was 12.0:1 at the high points. I increased fuelling by 5% in the Mid Tune ranges above 4000rpm and this corrected the problem. AFR Tracking still doesn't actually seem to kick in at any point, but I will look at this.
As for idle, this was a problem with the initial MAP ranges. I set the low point to 36.4, but at idle my car read 32, so I reduced this to 30 and it started running rich. I can remove fuel from the 400, 800 and 1200 rpm ranges in the Low tune screens.
As for PT Tracking, I increased the Cruise parameters to run upto 4V TPS and 4000rpm so the Cruise keeps tracking until I really punch the accelerator.

[FaceGarden]

Hey there, just a quick question... On the image below (from the first page of the thread), it shows an orange wire coming off of the 6 pin connector... The only close color there is red... Is that what i am supposed to use, the red wire? And is everything else correct, for those that have used this to wire things up? Thanks,
-Taylor