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#1421 (permalink) | |
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I bet you didn't know!
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#1422 (permalink) | |
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gettin' buck wild yo
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To be honest I played with actually turning the boost down and then zero'ing out the timing correction. I'm down to 10psi right now and like 26deg with all correction (base+ECU+T-Pro).. pulls pretty hard.. but.. I think I liked it best at around 13psi with 22deg.. Still playing with it. I never really thought about boost vs. timing vs. AFR's.. such a trade-off.. not just 2 factors, but all 3.. Less boost more timing leaner AFR's? More boost more timing richer AFR's? More boost less timing richer AFR's? About now I wish that I had the boost control too.. would make it easier to play with.. pulling over and adjusting the MBC gets to be a pain in the ass! /endthreadjack
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1G VR4 / OEM shorty / GTP 357's / 660's / Dejon twins + MAFT-Pro v4.65 / other stuff..
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#1423 (permalink) | |
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I bet you didn't know!
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#1424 (permalink) |
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king of ghetto
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i'm a low boost, high timing, as-much-fuel-as-my-car-likes person.
Low boost keeps intake temps reasonable, high timing makes more power than boost+retarding (proven), only as much fuel as needed, not drowning the engine in it.
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pıdnʇs 'ɹǝʌo ǝɯ dılɟ
![]() Official member of the "I upgraded everything in my car and now it's slower than stock" club. |
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#1425 (permalink) | |
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Resident mad scientist
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Drove it today, it rocks. I will post some screenshots....... at fullthrottle and here....
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Need a datalogger? Check out the Scanmaster 3
PM me about ECU mods for 8000+ RPM rev limits !!!!!!!! Stock = 7300 RPM Stage 1 = 8060 RPM Stage 2 = 8200 RPM Stage 3 = 8400 RPM Stage 4 = 8800 RPM (By request only) ![]() 1991 Stealth RT/TT, Grooms Shortblock, 13G's. My Stealth is for sale, 65000 miles, runs perfectly. $6,500 (a bargain) ![]() |
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#1426 (permalink) | |
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gettin' buck wild yo
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WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT! Any other changes besides timing monitor? |
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#1427 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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here is the posting:
Update files from 4.65 there is a change to the number of cylinders you can have (special for a customer) and this change. To make timing monitor run, you need to connect the yellow MAFT Pro wire to the ECU TACH wire. Clip R7 resistor, and set F IN mode to 22 Then tune it to match your logger or timing light. Bob |
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#1428 (permalink) | |
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I bet you didn't know!
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#1429 (permalink) |
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gettin' buck wild yo
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Offhand does anyone know the color and pin# of the ECU tach wire?
What exactly does "tuning it to match my logger or timing light mean" .. Do you mean dial in base timing as well on the TunerPro somehow to get a complete adjusted timing reading? ALSO - Anyone doing a software update for the first time, remember to unpack the files to the desktop or otherwise before running the update batch file.. |
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#1430 (permalink) |
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Drives like Hell
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There are two adjustments for making the timing monitor on the pro match your logger. There is a TM base and TM correct. You need to set your timing changes all to 0 on the pro then change the TM base to get the timing readout to match your logger at idle, and then change the tm correct until timing readout matches your logger at high RPM.
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.3si.org/forum/f103/official-maft-pro-thread-290438/
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| HOW TO INSTALL MAFTPRO ON A 91-99 3000GT VR4/91-96 STEALTH TT | This thread | Refback | 04-13-2008 01:45 AM | |
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