---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

For now, why not put the ECU back to stock. Then your tune should go back to where you started...... Then get things under control.

The timing control (the retard stuff) is ready for testing, I need to get it put in the car.

Bob

Do you think it's the ECU that's causing the issues? I do have another ECU I could throw in there (would probably be easier than changing the crystal) so I could get those fuel trims for you and see if there's another problem.

If it is the ECU what would you suggest? My car is pretty much useless with the stock rev limiter and cams.

I'm guessing timing advance isn't gonna be available before the NG, correct?

Terry

[Maximal]

Put in that stock ECU I had and the A/F still fluxuates at idle. I see it anywhere from 12's to 15. Fuel trims are stuck on 100.

Couple things that I think could be causing this... First I have a walbro. I tested the FP after I installed it and the stock FPR seemed to be able to keep up with it. Maybe it can't anymore? But at the same time wouldn't that cause it to read a constant rich A/F ratio at idle?

Secondly I have DR stage 3 heads and street grind cams. My vacuum was lower from those when I tested it last and did fluxuate...would that cause my A/F to be all over the place.

Any ideas on how to fix either of those problems?

Terry

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

Put in that stock ECU I had and the A/F still fluxuates at idle. I see it anywhere from 12's to 15. Fuel trims are stuck on 100.

Terry

Are you watching on the Pro or the LM1 itself?

Watch the FI and FO displays on the Pro, they should be equal, except for the User tune settings (UT is the total tune, mainscale+loadranges+airtemp)

fluctuating AFR could be from misfires, a cylinder that does not fire will read lean, regardless of how much fuel was injected.

What was the deal with the coil problem you had?

B

[Maximal]

Watching it on the pro and the LM-1...the A/F seems to be pretty close to the same.

FI and F0 appear to be at least close to equal...they're around 50 something (cycle too quick for me to see).

I swapped the coil pack twice. I had my RPM convertor for the LM-1 tapped directly into the wire from the coil since I was having issues. Turns out that got pinched and shorted out along the route to the inside and literally burnt up a coil. Swapped the coil twice since then (I heated the first replacement up pretty good when I was trying to fix the problem) so I doubt that's the problem.

I suppose I could of fouled a plug since it was running so rich for a while....think it would have cleaned itself out by now. I'm guessing if I mixed up the plug wires the engine would be noticably off.

Tested the FP and it's steady on 44 or so which I'm pretty sure is at least close to the spec.

Any other ideas...what should be the next step?

Terry

[Sephiroth]

I just want to let everyone know who was/is having problem with an usb-serial converter their laptops. I bought one from some website, I don't even remember, but I couldn't get it to communicate with anything, it installed and seemed to be fine. So I went out tonight to find a new one, no one was open. So I figured what the hell, I'll see if Wal-Mart had one, and sure enough they did. I was skeptical it would work, now I haven't tried it on my Pro yet, but it worked with my HotSync for my logger, where as the old one did not.

So basically you can get an adaptor that will work from Wal-Mart for $25, I will update tomorrow if it worked.

[Sephiroth]

Ok, looks like the cheapo Wal-Mart Serial adaptor did the trick. After messing with this for weeks that was all I needed. I now have everything updated.

[DriveFast99]

so any update on the timing control?

[Jeremy C]

Originally Posted by DriveFast99

so any update on the timing control?

It looks like I'm going to be doing a little wiring at the NG...

[Crosive]

I too am running mine in AFC mode, with pte 680s, mainscale set at -46%, pulling another 5% at 400 and at 800 JUST to idle rich. logger shows all my trims at 81.2, and it quickly gets there again once resetting the ecu as well.

everything seems to be working right, to an extent. drivability is pretty good, I rarely have any problems with just driving, my car seems to get a constant 14.7 while driving. And even idle will calm down to 14.7-1 ish after it sits there for a few minutes.

WOT nets me instant richness and knock. I can go partial throttle (I'm guessing 50-75% throttle) and the maft pro seems to fluctuate between 11.7-10.9, and it just pulls. I go wot, and it instantly reads rich on the wideband (<10-1) and knock shows up.

to me, this is pretty confusing why I can go all the partial throttle I want, but the minute I slam the pedal, the car goes bad rich, I thought it would atleast be the other way around, especially since more boost would be involved.

I have no way to connect my maft pro to a laptop (I have no laptop) so I can't upgrade or upload anything. I could prolly get a laptop if I pulled a few strings, but I want someone to tell me I absolutely need to before I go off trying to get it.

[Jeremy C]

what version of the t-pro do you have?

Also, what are your high tune settings?

You'll run 14.7 at idle/cruise because you're running off the O2's and the ECU is forcing it. When you go WOT you take the O2's out of the loop and run on preset maps. You need to start pulling fuel on the top end.