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#1021 (permalink) |
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I think my cars drunk...
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even something basic to start with, like only being able to retard 5* would be a start
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2003 Nissan 350z - New toy 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo - Sold Old Dyno w/15gs- 404awhp/398awtq @17psi mustang dyno - SOLD 1998 Mustang cobra - RIP Dyno 275rwhp/278rwtq 92 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Winter beater |
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#1022 (permalink) | |
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king of ghetto
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Quote:
If you can retard 5 degrees.....you can do anything....
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Compressed version:
LEXAN WINDOW GROUP BUY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "If the wings are traveling faster than the fuselage, it's probably a helicopter and therefore, unsafe." "Helicopters dont fly, they beat the air into submission." "Basic Flying Rules; Try to stay in the middle of the air. Do not go near the edges of it. The edges of the air can be recognized by the appearance of ground, buildings, sea, trees and interstellar space. It is much more difficult to fly there." "Flashlights are tubular metal containers kept in a flight bag for the purpose of storing dead batteries." "If something hasn't broken on your helicopter, it's about to." "Progress in airline flying: now a flight attendant can get a pilot pregnant." Aircraft Mechanics are Plane Nuts ![]() |
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#1023 (permalink) |
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Breaks all but Xfer case
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Problem... need help.
My car wont stay running and i hear the fuel pump hotwire relay clicking. When I get it running, it jumps back and forth from rich to lean (11-18) on the wideband. Now it just turns over and i think it floods the engine out before it can start. I have checked all the connections and am pretty confident they are all fine. I've checked all fuses, the MFI relay clicks on/off and i have good spark. A couple times, i have pulled the FP fuse to let it clean out so the fuel doesn't contaminate the oil too badly. I have tried leaning out the main scale on the MAFT Pro (from -45 to -55) to try to help it, but it doesn't work at all. About 2 weeks ago, it stalled and wouldn't start b/c it flooded itself, so i let it sit for a couple days, started it and had no more problems, until this. No new mods from the last time it did this. New mods installed with MAFT PRO: FPR (50 psi), Any thoughts on where to look? Thanks, Brian
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![]() Black 93 VR-4 12.60 @ 108 w/ 9b's, 550's BlowThrough MAFT and E-Manage 11.77 @ 123 w/ 14b's (22psi), FMIC, MAFTPRO, 650's ??.?? @ ??? w/ 14b's (26psi) ??.?? @ ??? w/ 14b's (24psi) + NOS (35shot) Show and Go: HKS cat back, 98 rear garnish, EGR block off plates, Phantom boost guage, Walpro 255 lph, Intrax, JayVR4 control arms, 1-4 Syncros, Kormex output shaft, RPS MAX Street Disc, Resurfaced Flywheel, ATR Downpipe, HKS SQV, Dejon dual intakes, AEM Wideband, mobo shift/ebrake boots, Battery Relocation, MAFT PRO, 14B Turbos, DNP TDO5 Headers, Tial Wastegates, DNP FMIC, P+P Heads, 99 Lifters, Vac Reduction, 98 Body kit, 94 Robot headlights, Ross Pistons, Balanced Crank, Denso 650, IPO FPR w/ Gauge, Flexalite fans, Boost a Pump, ARP Head Studs, CF 575 Hood, 50HP NX Wet Kit, NOCAR Xfer Case, Veilside CF spoiler, ACPT CFDS, 19x9 SSR D5R, Blitz SBC-ID, Boomslang harness, Corbeau LG1's |
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#1024 (permalink) |
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Hitokiri Battousai
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Grrr...
So what's most people's afterstart setup as? My tune is almost perfect as far as I can tell, other than cold start up. Cool, dry mornings when I first start the car it barely idles and stalls within seconds. Once the car is warm or the temp is above say 55* the car idles smoothly. Unfortunately I can't get a good reading on the LC-1 in the first few seconds of running when it's the worst to see my AFR and I have to step on the gas before it can come online after starting the car. If I can get this taken care of my car will finally be happy after nearly 2 years (hasn't ran this good since I boosted it).
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#1025 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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is it only idle, or idle and driving?
I usually set mine to 15%. Feel free to set it higher...... depending on where your trims are, your car might want more. B
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#1026 (permalink) |
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Hitokiri Battousai
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While driving the car will hesitate and spike lean randomly for the first few minutes only at cruising speed. After that it's fine. If I get on the gas and force the O2's to react the car will feel fine as well. Idle is just...yuck.
I'll add more and see what that does. I'll take it to 15% and see what I get.What's your decay at? |
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#1027 (permalink) |
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I think my cars drunk...
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my afterstart is at 0% and has never been changed
my car idles great cold or warm ive been tweaking the VE table even more in combination with messing around w/low load tables and have an almost perfect tune |
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#1028 (permalink) |
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user
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Hey Bob,
I am having a problem with the Pro it seems to be loosing the internal memory. I recently upgraded to 4.6 version a few weeks ago and the car has been running good. Within the past few days the Pro lost all of its memory. When the memory is lost, all of the Config Settings defaults as follows: Vehicle Sel = 175 # of Cyl = 350 Displ = 7 Ar Fl Source = 175 Map Source = 175 Dens Source = 175 Baro Mode = 175 F-out Mode = 175 V-out1 Mode = 175 V-out2 Mode = 175 AFR Source = 175 F-In Mode = 175 Aux1 Mode = 175 I went through and reset everything back to the correct values and the car work fine for a day or two and then it did it again. Any idea what may be wrong? Do you think there may be something messed up with the memory in the Pro. Thanks, Greg |
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#1030 (permalink) | |
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Resident mad scientist
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Quote:
what are you setting you vehicle select to? The times it acted up, had you done any tuning or changes that day? I would do a couple things, 1, hold the right 2 buttons while powering up (you have to hold them for like 10 seconds) and the Pro will reset all its internal settings. Let me know what it sets itself to... 2, rerun the update procedure, although I can't think of a way this can fail.... 3, set the vehicle select to 0. If it acts up again, let me know and I'll swap you for the unit on my car..... B |
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