---===The Official MAFT-Pro Thread===---

[Rustang Cobra]

i think you need to configure the analog output on the lm1, just set it to 0v=10.0 5v= 20.0 and then use the AEM as your wideband in the maftpro setup menu

i believe your car wont idle because.....
your car is trying to idle richer than donald trump, the 10.0 reading is really something like an 8.0 reading, so your car is just stalling rich. You'll end up fouling out those plugs if you're not careful.


what injectors are you using btw?

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

I'm almost thinking I have a defective unit between the idle problems and the WB not reading right.

Terry

You need to use the white wire (analog2) from the LM1.



Bob

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by Jeremy C

Where did you tap the t-pro into the WB at? It sounds almost like a bad ground connection for the t-pro.

The LM-1 has an output port and a cable that comes with it. The cable has bare, white, and red wires. The bare is ground and the red and white are signals. The bare wire is connected to the WB ground on the maft-pro (either purple or orange) and the red wire is connected to the other one. The wires are tiny though so perhaps the connectors I used didn't clamp down on them hard enough even though I can't pull them out.

Originally Posted by Rustang Cobra

i think you need to configure the analog output on the lm1, just set it to 0v=10.0 5v= 20.0 and then use the AEM as your wideband in the maftpro setup menu

i believe your car wont idle because.....
your car is trying to idle richer than donald trump, the 10.0 reading is really something like an 8.0 reading, so your car is just stalling rich. You'll end up fouling out those plugs if you're not careful.


what injectors are you using btw?

Didn't know you had to configure the output...I assume you do that with the LM1 software? That could be my problem. And use the AEM setting instead of the LM1 on the wideband setting of the maft-pro?

There is a problem with the maft-pro to wideband connection. Even when I was running lean under throttle the maft-pro software was still showing 10. It was running rich but never that rich...the lowest reading I saw on the LM1 was in the high 10's.

It's a non-turbo so I have the stock 210's. I do have a walbro but never had a problem with that overrunning the stock FPR before...it always kept it in check.

Terry

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

You need to use the white wire (analog2) from the LM1.



Bob

Wow, you guys are replying faster than I can.

Guess that's my problem if that's the case...I couldn't find any mention in the LM1 manual to which wire is which. I called up a local member and he said he thought they were both outputs which makes sense so I figured it didnt matter.

Just out of curiosity what's the difference between the red and white wires? Do I still have to configure the output?

Thanks for the help guys.

Terry

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

Having some issues with mine. Have it running AFC mode on a non-turbo.

I installed it last Sunday and despite some minor problems (just with settings) it seemed to run fine. Got a chance to tune it Friday and I forgot to download the bin from the tuner and adjust that...I just changed the settings in the software so when I uploaded it the settings were back to default. Figured that out and put all the settings I had before according the instructions but the car wouldn't idle.

Messed around for a while and finally changed the main scale setting (I think that's what it's called...adjusts the whole range) to -27% to get it to idle (the LM-1 said 10-11 A/F when it wasn't idling before)...I have stock injectors.

#### snip ####

Sorry for the long post, any help is appreciated.

Terry

Somethings amiss....

In AFC mode, you use the stock MAF, with the air temp and baro signals going to the ECU. The brown and gray wires in the 10 pin harness are not used. Is this how it is installed? There is an installation sheet specifically for AFC mode. Are the air temp and baro readings on the logger reading correctly?

What version do you have?

can you post your config settings and the UT reading on the sensor display page? Also look at the FI and FO (Freq in, and Freq Out) displays, they should be the same.... (or close)

The TAP and CRIMP connectors have always worked well for me. But they are the single most troublesome component in the system. If moving the harness causes "wierdness" or you get wierd spikes in the signals, then soldering is a good idea to take the tap connectors out of the picture.

There have been a couple guys that have tried to remove the pins from the MAFT Pro harness to pass the cable thru a small hole. If this is done without using the special tool, the pins get messed up. And then flaky connections are the result.

Sorry for the long winded reply.....

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

Just out of curiosity what's the difference between the red and white wires? Do I still have to configure the output?

Thanks for the help guys.

Terry

Analog 1 is a stock O2 simulator, it swings from 0 to 1 volt as the wideband reading passes thru 14.7......

Analog 2 is the analog output, the LM1 is setup in stock form to put out 1 volt at 10:1 and 2 volts at 20:1, so a generic voltmeter can be used as a remote display. This is what the Pro expects when set for an LM1. If you are going to configure the LM1, I recommend the 0-5 volt, 10-20 afr setup like Rustang suggests (which is compatible with the Scanmaster....) it is better for noise immunity and resolution. Also set the unit to read lean in case of a sensor failure.......

Bob

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

Somethings amiss....

In AFC mode, you use the stock MAF, with the air temp and baro signals going to the ECU. The brown and gray wires in the 10 pin harness are not used. Is this how it is installed? There is an installation sheet specifically for AFC mode. Are the air temp and baro readings on the logger reading correctly?

What version do you have?

can you post your config settings and the UT reading on the sensor display page? Also look at the FI and FO (Freq in, and Freq Out) displays, they should be the same.... (or close)

The TAP and CRIMP connectors have always worked well for me. But they are the single most troublesome component in the system. If moving the harness causes "wierdness" or you get wierd spikes in the signals, then soldering is a good idea to take the tap connectors out of the picture.

There have been a couple guys that have tried to remove the pins from the MAFT Pro harness to pass the cable thru a small hole. If this is done without using the special tool, the pins get messed up. And then flaky connections are the result.

Sorry for the long winded reply.....

I was under the impression that you could install it with the standard connections and as long as you set the f-out to AFC mode it ignored those connections. I installed it that way since I eventually plan on running speed density.

Now that you mention it the baro reading is in the 200's (the directions said it was supposed to be at 100). The air temp was a little funky when I first installed it but I had some settings issues and once I got those taken care of it seemed right. I haven't checked it after these recent rounds of problems though. That signs of bad connections?

The more I think about it it makes sense it's a bad connection. Nothing changed in the settings between the problems and the wires were moved around both times.

As for the version I'm not sure...car's not where I am at the moment.

Terry

[TurboBob]

Originally Posted by StealthES418

I was under the impression that you could install it with the standard connections and as long as you set the f-out to AFC mode it ignored those connections. I installed it that way since I eventually plan on running speed density.

Now that you mention it the baro reading is in the 200's (the directions said it was supposed to be at 100). The air temp was a little funky when I first installed it but I had some settings issues and once I got those taken care of it seemed right. I haven't checked it after these recent rounds of problems though. That signs of bad connections?

The more I think about it it makes sense it's a bad connection. Nothing changed in the settings between the problems and the wires were moved around both times.

As for the version I'm not sure...car's not where I am at the moment.

Terry

Its possible to configure it to work, its just not standard.

Set the V out 1 mode to 101, this echos the IAT signal thru to the ECU
Set the V out 2 mode to 100, this echos the Baro signal thru to the ECU.

When I install the tap connectors I use regular pliers and squeeze them pretty hard. They work well for me.... Rustang has a trick about flipping them around and installing them a second time, which I have never tried....

When I install the crimps I use an industrial style crimper, not the hardware store variety. For tiny wires I strip them extra long and fold them back on themselves so they fit better.

Bob

[Rustang Cobra]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

Its possible to configure it to work, its just not standard.

Set the V out 1 mode to 101, this echos the IAT signal thru to the ECU
Set the V out 2 mode to 100, this echos the Baro signal thru to the ECU.

When I install the tap connectors I use regular pliers and squeeze them pretty hard. They work well for me.... Rustang has a trick about flipping them around and installing them a second time, which I have never tried....

When I install the crimps I use an industrial style crimper, not the hardware store variety. For tiny wires I strip them extra long and fold them back on themselves so they fit better.

Bob

i dont even use the t-taps anymore and can't even recommend them when soldering is so easy

terry, you should NOT have to set your mainscale to -27%, set that back to 0% and work from there

dont try and compensate for issues by messin with the mainscale, when you have it right, your mainscale should be 0% and your car will idle fine

alot of guys on here tried correcting their problems by running mainscales that never corresponded with the injectors they were running and it would cause their cars to stall randomly, you dont want that....

[Maximal]

Originally Posted by TurboBob

Its possible to configure it to work, its just not standard.

Set the V out 1 mode to 101, this echos the IAT signal thru to the ECU
Set the V out 2 mode to 100, this echos the Baro signal thru to the ECU.

When I install the tap connectors I use regular pliers and squeeze them pretty hard. They work well for me.... Rustang has a trick about flipping them around and installing them a second time, which I have never tried....

When I install the crimps I use an industrial style crimper, not the hardware store variety. For tiny wires I strip them extra long and fold them back on themselves so they fit better.

Bob

Pretty sure I didnt' set the v-outs to that...is that in the instructions? A quick setup for the AFC mode would probably be helpful.

I'll just solder the wires tomorrow. I was gonna do that anyways but I soldering gun I had at the time sucked and I didn't really want to mess with it. I'm gonna borrow my dad's cordless one tomorrow and go at it though, shouldn't be that big of a deal and it'll rule out any connection problems.

Terry