bravo. it's good to have all that info in one, very readable, thread.
only thing: i know this is nitpicking, but i just don't want a new guy to tuning reading this and getting confused. but duty cycle is actually the percentage of the time the injector is open in relation to the amount of time it can be open, correct? ie: at 100% duty cycle, the injector is open all the time. at 5% duty cycle, it is open 5% of the time. the rest it is closed. what you defined is actually the pulse width, correct? please correct me if i'm wrong.
but yeah,
I simplified it overly, thanks for the catch (I am still proofreading it).
Duty cycle= (pulsewidth)/ (total time between ignition events)
__________________
-Josh
3780lbs, pump gas 3/s. 127.08mph-92 octane. (2005, ~'480'awhp)
best dyno: 720.2awhp/592tq.
blue 93 rt/tt-SOLD (and missed on occasion)
I've got a question. How do you handle initial tuning on a freshly rebuilt motor? Particularly with a standalone like the AEM. I ask because a majority of the break in happens within the first hundred miles or so that you run the motor (at least that's my understanding) and obviously a bad tune isn't a good thing to break a motor in on. Do you just load up a base map (or come up with one on your own based on your experience), get AFR and timing values to good levels as quickly as possible and than continue with the break in of the motor? Or do you use some other methodology?
I've got a question. How do you handle initial tuning on a freshly rebuilt motor? Particularly with a standalone like the AEM. I ask because a majority of the break in happens within the first hundred miles or so that you run the motor (at least that's my understanding) and obviously a bad tune isn't a good thing to break a motor in on. Do you just load up a base map (or come up with one on your own based on your experience), get AFR and timing values to good levels as quickly as possible and than continue with the break in of the motor? Or do you use some other methodology?
Myself personally I have enough base maps that I can have the car running/idleing/reving like normal/stock within 10 minutes, 99% of the time the car will be idling good and running great by the time the coolant gets to operating temperature.
Hannibal's suggestion is a good method to make sure the car starts okay if you don't trust yourself or don't have enough experience to get the car running clean on your first try.
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